Morta Poker #1

[RobEsArt]

Hi all. I'm looking for critique on this morta poker in progress. The stummel is morta, the stem is ebonite, the shank band/extension is acrylic.

This is three "firsts" for me...
First Morta pipe
First Poker
First use of acrylic for pipe making








Thank you for looking and for your input and advice.
Rob

[sandahlpipe]

An acrylic stem ought to be shiny like a mirror. Wet sand that thing to at least 1000 grit and buff it till it's reflective.

The bowl is a little on the large size for the shank, but not by much. You can get morta to shine a little more with some extra care in sanding.

Also, the bowl looks like it crowds over the shank. Give it just a couple degrees of forward cant and it will look more inviting.


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[wdteipen]

You also have a subtle reverse taper going in the shank. Take a bit more off where the shank and white accent meet. You also have a very slight curve on the front of the bowl. Make sure the sides of the bowl are straight and don't bow or wobble.

[RobEsArt]

Thanks guys.

I should have clarified further. I have only begun my sanding schedule. I am interested to have the "big problems" pointed out to me at this stage for obvious reasons.


Wayne,
So you spotted that reverse taper on the shank. (Damn I was hoping that would slide. ) I didn't leave enough meat at the transition area, and voila.

Jeremiah, do you think that may also be why the bowl seems to be crowding over the shank, not 100% sure.

I am working on a second poker (briar) and I made sure to leave enough material for cutting the trans (I am aiming for a parallel shank).
As for the curve on the bowl... I sanded the areas above and below the shank while on the lathe, then sanded the rest all "in hand". What is an appropriate method for sanding this type of area?

I am also considering a blast. Thin ring/area of smooth top and bottom of the bowl, matching smooth area up to the acrylic ring, smooth rim and bottom.

Thanks again,
Rob

[Joe Hinkle Pipes]

The bowl also pinches towards the shank on both the top and bottom. Chamber is still a bit high, you want to lower it so that the bottom of the chamber level with the bottom of the draft hole.

[RobEsArt]

The bowl also pinches towards the shank on both the top and bottom.

I'm not sure I understand what you mean.

Also, regarding the bottom of the chamber... Is the removal of the material functional or aesthetic? I'm not opposed to doing it, just curious.

[Joe Hinkle Pipes]

The bowl diameter is larger at the top, and shrinks in towards the shank. Look at the profile shots. As for the draft hole, it is both aesthetic and functional. It will facilitate burning all the way to the bottom and cake forming at the bottom of the bowl. It will also prevent tobacco getting stuck in the draft hole. But the most important thing is the fact that the pros are doing it and it shows attention to detail.

[sandahlpipe]

If the bottom of the airway is beneath the bottom of the chamber, you're restricting the airflow, even if only marginally. Over time, as a cake develops, the airway is going to close up more quickly than if you had it properly centered. What this means is that when you draw your lines, you need to make sure your chamber comes half the diameter of the airway below the airway line on the block.


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[RobEsArt]

Joe and Jeremiah,

Thank you for that information... remedying in process.

[RobEsArt]

Ok, I'm working on the morta and the briar poker today...

Is it just me, or is the transition from shank to bowl difficult for everyone?

I thought that doing a poker would be pretty straight forward. Either I'm missing something, or I'm trying too hard.

Any suggestions for shaping the transition area would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you
RobE

[andrew]

You're not missing anything... it's hard.

andrew

[RobEsArt]

thanks Andrew

[The Smoking Yeti]

If the bottom of the airway is beneath the bottom of the chamber, you're restricting the airflow, even if only marginally. Over time, as a cake develops, the airway is going to close up more quickly than if you had it properly centered. What this means is that when you draw your lines, you need to make sure your chamber comes half the diameter of the airway below the airway line on the block.


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Or you can always just stick a carbide burr in there and blend in the bottom of the chamber by hand.

[RobEsArt]

I applied the notes I received, thank you for the help...

Please feel free to let the final critique begin...

I also decided to sandblast this one.












Thank you,

RobE

[sandahlpipe]

The shank is far too skinny for the size of the bowl. It grows fatter towards the stem, which is opposite what it should be, if you were to do a taper, which is not typical on a poker.

Also, the shank face and stem face are really rough. Sharpen those tools and take small passes and you should be able to get a cleaner look.

[RobEsArt]

Jeremiah,

You were right about sharp tools and small passes. The stem I'm working on now has a nice clean cut face.

Thanks for the reminder. (I should've known better)