A Minnie Volcano

[RobEsArt]

Algerian plateaux stummel, German Cumberland stem with an inlayed Ipe bead.
This pipe is my personal new pipe, unfortunately... It was going well until buffing time. I didn't realize my hands had become numb, the carnauba wheel grabbed the bowl rim, the pipe came out of my hands, bounced on the lathe bed-scratching and chipping the bottom of the bowl. The stem encountered the gear teeth on the Jacob's chuck-chipping the underside of the button. As I was making a new stem, I was fitting the tenon to the mortise, and I cracked the shank/mortise.
I was very pleased with how the draft hole entered the tobacco chamber. It is the best alignment I have had so far. so I was hoping to be able to sell it... As my teacher has said on many occasions, "It is my duty to inform you, that it is hopeless." If I could just remember that all the time.






Thank you for all comments and critiques.
Rob

[sandahlpipe]

The buffer-snatcher is never fun to deal with. Get yourself some diamond grip disposable gloves for buffing. Probably one of the best investments I made. The stem either has sanding scratches or dust on it, but the pic is fuzzy, so it's hard to tell. Again, I probably wouldn't do the bead on the stem. And the stem looks too flat on the sides. I think a taper would give it some much needed motion in the stem.

[RobEsArt]

Thank you. I have begun wearing nitrite gloves while sanding, staining and buffing, for numerous reasons, but also for added grip while buffing. The main problem is I have CTS, and have been dealing with it off and on for about ten years. Sometimes when the early warning symptoms set in (the numbness) I don't notice it, not until I reach my hand in the oven or the grill without a pot holder and afterwards think to myself "huh, that shoulda hurt a lot more".

Yes the stem still has some sanding scratches in it. I was planning on going back in and re-sanding the stem before photos, but alas, there is no point now. The cracked shank and chipped button will help this pipe find its way into my rotation.

As for the flat sides on the stem... would you suggest a radial taper, from the bead to the bit? I may play with it more (practice, practice, practice).
Thanks again,
Rob

[sandahlpipe]

For the taper, a radial or gradual taper would work fine. I personally would do the radial in this case, but I don't think either would be wrong.

Always nice to have some shop pipes to smoke. I learn a lot by smoking mine.

[socrates]

One of my favorite shapes. I own a few made by different folks. I certainly like your pipe and would enjoy it in my meager collection. I am not an expert by stretch of the imagination there are others here that are but I do know what I like and I like your pipe. Thanks for showing it.

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