Hi all
Last week I've managed to to gather few days without obligations and spend this free time in my little workshop.
I've made this two pipes, hope you'll like it
Thank you all for watching
Dom
My No.7 and No.8
- LexKY_Pipe
- Posts: 875
- Joined: Thu Nov 23, 2006 8:00 pm
- Location: Lexington, Kentucky USA
I have a concern, and it's hard to see from the pix. In the first pipe, where you show the shot of the tobacco chamber from above. It looks as though the air hole is quite a bit higher than the bottom of the tobacco hole. This will be problematic if this is true. The air hole should be at the very bottom point of the tobacco chamber.
It might just be photographic illusions, but the pipes appear a little "lumpy". I would work on keeping the lines clean and straight, so the shapes look defined and deliberate rather than organic. I like where you're going with the first pipe, but I'd remove more material from the shank/bowl junction, to further delineate these seperate pipe parts. Again, this might be the photography, but there are areas that appear to lack side to side symmetry. I hope you don't mind the comments, but I figured you'd like a little feedback (I do!) and everyone is busy "oohing and ahhing" over Love and Kurt's latest creations.
I like the poker. As others have already mentioned, it does bulge around the middle of the bowl and it would look even better if a little more briar was removed at the shank/bowl connection. Just a bit more time spent with the sand paper (and a squinted eye) and you have yourself a very, very nice pipe, IMO. Great work.
Hi all,
and, must say, GREAT, finally some advices and criticism.
I was beginning to think that almost every of my pipes is flawless
It is true, the air hole is some 1mm higher than the bottom of the tobacco chamber. This is something that was poorly prebored when this piece of briar came to me in a pipe kit, along with a poorly done churchwarden stem that I ordered in a same order, and later spent a lot of time sanding and removing these flaws on my No.6 pipe... I don't know, is air hole that poorly bored enough reason to sent it back to the shop where I ordered it?
About the "lumpy" surfaces... I've wanted to use decorative tenon rings, and for some reason I used this piece of red plastic (on pipe No.7), and no mather what I do, this ring always stayed wider than the stem... almost like the sanding didn't had effect on him like on the briar and vulcanite... You can see on the pictures what I'm talking about.
On pipe No.8 I used apple wood ring, and didn't experience any of problems like with this red plastic ring. Now, I received some horn tips, and will try to decorate pipes with it, and we'll see how that'll turn out.
No.8 wasn't supposed to be typical poker, and I think it didn't turned out quite as a poker, appart from shape similarity. I wanted to do tobacco chamber walls (outside walls) a little bit rounded, but in the end only the front outside wall turned out a little bit rounded... I'm happy how they all turned out, thank you all for your critics, watching and comments. This is a wonderfull hobby, and I'm enjoying more and more with every new pipe I start to make.
Greets, Dom
and, must say, GREAT, finally some advices and criticism.
I was beginning to think that almost every of my pipes is flawless
It is true, the air hole is some 1mm higher than the bottom of the tobacco chamber. This is something that was poorly prebored when this piece of briar came to me in a pipe kit, along with a poorly done churchwarden stem that I ordered in a same order, and later spent a lot of time sanding and removing these flaws on my No.6 pipe... I don't know, is air hole that poorly bored enough reason to sent it back to the shop where I ordered it?
About the "lumpy" surfaces... I've wanted to use decorative tenon rings, and for some reason I used this piece of red plastic (on pipe No.7), and no mather what I do, this ring always stayed wider than the stem... almost like the sanding didn't had effect on him like on the briar and vulcanite... You can see on the pictures what I'm talking about.
On pipe No.8 I used apple wood ring, and didn't experience any of problems like with this red plastic ring. Now, I received some horn tips, and will try to decorate pipes with it, and we'll see how that'll turn out.
No.8 wasn't supposed to be typical poker, and I think it didn't turned out quite as a poker, appart from shape similarity. I wanted to do tobacco chamber walls (outside walls) a little bit rounded, but in the end only the front outside wall turned out a little bit rounded... I'm happy how they all turned out, thank you all for your critics, watching and comments. This is a wonderfull hobby, and I'm enjoying more and more with every new pipe I start to make.
Greets, Dom
The ring is either a semi-soft plastic or nylon or something similar. This makes it more resistant to sanding and filing than the briar and vulcanite on either side, thus making it "stand proud". Inserts and extensions need to be similar in hardness to the other pipe materials to get a cleaner "line". Hardwoods, acrylic, bone, horn, etc. seem to work well.Domba wrote:About the "lumpy" surfaces... I've wanted to use decorative tenon rings, and for some reason I used this piece of red plastic (on pipe No.7), and no mather what I do, this ring always stayed wider than the stem... almost like the sanding didn't had effect on him like on the briar and vulcanite... You can see on the pictures what I'm talking about.
Regards,
Frank.
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Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
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Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
I frequently use metal for rings/extensions and it is true that the harder materials will "stand proud" when sanding. If you back the sand paper to a hard flat surface material can still be taken off evenly with a true line across all three materials. I have had good results using tacky glue and 1/4 inch oak strips about an 1/8 inch wider on each side of the harder material.
There are also the emery boards for fingernails and thier softer more contoured foam counterparts that come in various grits. They seem to work but not quite as well as the oak strip.
There are also the emery boards for fingernails and thier softer more contoured foam counterparts that come in various grits. They seem to work but not quite as well as the oak strip.