freehand bulldog..I guess?

[jeeper]

I guess this is a bulldog or as close as I could get without a lathe. I feel that mechanically this pipe is my best so far even though the grain let me down a little I decided to not cover the pits or cracks. Please I'm to the point now I could use some feed back, is this a shape that is popular, is it pointless to attempt unless a can make the grove around it?
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I plan on taking this pipe to a shop and have them critque it as well.
I know I still need to work on my photos sorry

[flix]

I've never made a bulldog, for the same reason you mention. But, I notice that the stem shank junction transition is not smooth. It looks as if you sanded the two pieces separately and have left a small indentation there in places. You should sand the two pieces while together.

Except for that, this is a commendable effort, IMO. It looks like you put a lot of effort into the pipe.

Are you saving up for a lathe? Even as ignorant as I am, I would never attempt this shape without a lathe, and without the ring(s).

[pierredekat]

Well, I think the mechanics of a pipe should be foremost on the minds of us pipemakers, and it's great that you consider this to be your best so far, mechanically.

As far as the shape is concerned, the prevailing opinion would be that this pipe is a "Rhodesian", having a round stem rather than a diamond-shaped stem. And if you really wanna split hairs, it's probably closest to the "Bullmoose" design.

And the grooves around the circumference of the pipe are optional. I think they're are a nice highlight on the "traditional" design, but they're not a requirement.

As far as a critique, just what flix said about the transition from the stem to the stummel not being smooth. I figured out when photographing my own pipes that a lot of "optical illusions" pop up in the pictures. But I'm pretty sure the stem/stummel transition isn't quite as smooth as it could be.

And not a critique but a helpful hint for all pipemakers, particularly those without a lathe: an "outside spring caliper" is a wonderful thing.



I've got a couple ancient spring calipers that I picked up in antique stores, but you can still buy these things new if you want.

Spring calipers can be very helpful for getting pipes round. Just so long as your tobacco chamber is round, you can use a caliper to maintain a certain wall thickness, etc., thereby keeping the outside of the pipe round, as well.

They will also warn you when the wall thickness starts getting into the danger-zone.

I've actually thought about starting a thread here on the forum about vintage tools that are extremely helpful making pipes, even in the age of powertools. The next on my list would be a marking gauge.

Man, talk about an easier way to maintain a centerline on a block of wood. I'm currently toying with the notion of making one of these things, except that, instead of having a metal point to scratch/indicate a line, it would have a pencil point, with a screw holding the pencil in-position.

[Leus]

I've actually thought about starting a thread here on the forum about vintage tools that are extremely helpful making pipes, even in the age of powertools. The next on my list would be a marking gauge.

Man, talk about an easier way to maintain a centerline on a block of wood. I'm currently toying with the notion of making one of these things, except that, instead of having a metal point to scratch/indicate a line, it would have a pencil point, with a screw holding the pencil in-position.

Those are excellent. But if you don't have one, you can always use your hand, like here.

[jeeper]

Thank You for the feed back, I don’t know that what the camera shows is a visual effect or that it just magnifies the mistakes (I believe the latter). I do shape and sand with the stem attached however I do take it off when trying to clean up or smooth the stummel, on the face of the mortise. I have had a hard time doing this on all my pipes and would quite often never get a good fit at all. I have forster bits to help keep everything square and I get a good fit, but when I then try to sand either to just sand away the scratches from the bit or if I stain and I need to clean that up I sometimes end up with an uneven fit because it’s not as square. Does everyone just leave that bare how do clean that area up and not have issues?

[KurtHuhn]

I always leave the shank face "as squared". That's why a precision forstner bit is necessary - so that you don't get scratches or grooves in the face. Failing that, if you have a large metal lathe, you can face using that. Just be careful not to try and sand it after the fact. Chances are near 100% t6hat you won't end up with a square face after sanding.

[RadDavis]

Hey Jeeper,

I sand my shank faces smooth to 600 grit by putting the sand paper on a piece of flat finished granite. You can also use a piece of thick glass. Just make sure it's a flat surface.

After you've cut the shank face perpindicular to the mortise, put it flat on the sand paper and draw it toward you, keeping it flat the whole time. I do 5 strokes, turn it around in my hand and do 5 more at 300 grit. Then do the same thing at 600 grit, and you get a nice smooth finish on your shank face. When you stain it and wipe it off with alcohol, it looks just like the rest of the finished pipe.

Rad

[Leus]

Hey Jeeper,

I sand my shank faces smooth to 600 grit by putting the sand paper on a piece of flat finished granite. You can also use a piece of thick glass. Just make sure it's a flat surface.

After you've cut the shank face perpindicular to the mortise, put it flat on the sand paper and draw it toward you, keeping it flat the whole time. I do 5 strokes, turn it around in my hand and do 5 more at 300 grit. Then do the same thing at 600 grit, and you get a nice smooth finish on your shank face. When you stain it and wipe it off with alcohol, it looks just like the rest of the finished pipe.

Rad

Hey Rad,

Probably you don't haven't realized, but to do that well, you need serious skills...

Cheers,

[RadDavis]

Hey Leo,

I don't think you need serious skills, you just need to take your time and make sure the shank face stays flat on the sand paper.

It literally takes about 2 minutes to do it.

You can also get a seriously flat bottom on a poker or other sitter this way.

Rad

[LexKY_Pipe]

Great suggestions Rad.

[Frank]

There's a thread elsewhere on the forum about this method, but I forget where, so I'll do my best to describe it:

1) Take a small flat piece of wood, approx. 1" to 1 1/2" square, approx. 1/4" to 1/2" thick and glue a piece of sandpaper to it about the same size as the wooden block.
2) Drill a hole through the block of wood & sandpaper the same diameter as your mortise/tenon. Make sure the hole is drilled exactly perpindicular to the block.
3) Remove the drill bit from the drill chuck & stick it in the hole you just drilled with the drill bit shank end sticking about 1/4" to 3/8" out the sandpaper side of the block.
3) Insert the shank end of the drill bit in your mortise and rotate back & forth to remove scratches & perfectly align you motise with the shank end of the pipe.
4) You can use this same block of wood, with the drill bit removed, to perfectly flatten & align the stem tenon shoulder as well.
5) When the sandpaper wears out, peel it off & glue another piece on.

I have about 3 or 4 pieces of wood like this with different diameter holes for different diameter motises/tenons. I make mine on my lathe from 1 1/2" diameter dowel rod. You obviosly don't need a lathe, a drill press will do the job.

I hope the above explanation isn't too garbled.

[jeeper]

Thank You Frank I think I see what you're talking about I'll give this a try.