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I wouldn't rusticate. The grain is ok by itself, not great, but interesting. Good symmetry on the bowl! A little better fit between the stem/shank and the pipe would be great! Nice job! The slim-looking bowl shape is very elegant.
Thanks guys,
Good point bvartist. I'll work on that tonight. That's when you can really use a table sander I think. Actually I need quite a few "Table" tools. Lathe, Drill press, sander, grinder. . . The list goes on!
Nice pipe, it looks like you are getting some rounding off on the end of the shank at the shoulder where it meets the stem. Are you sanding or buffing with tripoli, with the stem off of the stummel? If you leave the stem on the stummel for your sanding and buffing, you will eliminate that rounding off.
Otherwise, great looking pipe. I like the staining! Nice.
-Bryan
"You should never fight, but if you have to fight...fight dirty. Kick 'em in the groin, throw a rock at 'em"
achduliebe wrote:Yeah, I don't think the tool list ever ends...
I thought I was getting close to the end of my list(for now) until Love(geigerpipes) posted the pics of that pantograph under "putting your name on pipes"! This is the only craft I've seen that requires more tools than a cabinet maker!
achduliebe wrote:Yeah, I don't think the tool list ever ends...
I thought I was getting close to the end of my list(for now) until Love(geigerpipes) posted the pics of that pantograph under "putting your name on pipes"! This is the only craft I've seen that requires more tools than a cabinet maker!
PapaDuke, its a great pipe for just hand work!
David
Ha! As one who just started compiling tools to build his own cabinets for a kitchen remodel, I can appreciate that comment!
I'll reiterate a previous comment, it looks like you are doing your shaping, sanding and/or buffing withOUT the stem in place. I sugest you put the stem in the stummel as early in the process as you can, and keep it there as much as possible. That said, that is a VERY impressive #3.
Tyler
edit: added "OUT" to "with". Sheesh, I said the exact opposite of what I was trying to say!
Last edited by Tyler on Sun Apr 09, 2006 11:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thanks everyone.
I have a plan for squaring up the shank. As you know I'm just doing this with a Dremel and a Hand Drill with sanding and buffing attachments so it's pretty hard to get things squared off or rounded perfectly right now. The sanding pad is rubber so it bends under the slightest pressure. Maybe if I C-Clamp it to the table then use a block to elevate the pipe to about the middle of the pad I can not only keep the disc from bending it will also square it off for an even sand on the base of the shank?
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Here's a couple items I have my eyes on
About $40.00 1/2 HP motor
No load speed: 3450 RPM
Motor: 3.5 AMP
Voltage: 115V/60 Hz
This is what I really have my eye on..
Around $70.00 Includes basic machine with 1/4 HP, 120V, single phase motor; two tilting tables, 100 grit abrasive belt, 80 grit abrasive disc, miter gage, wrench and instruction manual. FEATURES: Induction-type ball bearing motor for long lasting, smooth performance. Automatic belt tensioning; with handy belt tracking control for convenient belt adjustment. Removable belt platen for finishing curved or odd-shaped work. Removable side panel with single lock-knob for easy belt changing. Lighted rocker-type switch for positive on-off control; can be padlocked to prevent unauthorized use. Built-in dust spout for shop vacuum hook-up
Any other things I need outside of the lathe?
Or does anyone know if these two models would not help as much as I think they would??
Thanks everyone.
I have a plan for squaring up the shank. As you know I'm just doing this with a Dremel and a Hand Drill with sanding and buffing attachments so it's pretty hard to get things squared off or rounded perfectly right now. The sanding pad is rubber so it bends under the slightest pressure. Maybe if I C-Clamp it to the table then use a block to elevate the pipe to about the middle of the pad I can not only keep the disc from bending it will also square it off for an even sand on the base of the shank?
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Here's a couple items I have my eyes on
About $40.00 1/2 HP motor
No load speed: 3450 RPM
Motor: 3.5 AMP
Voltage: 115V/60 Hz
This is what I really have my eye on..
Around $70.00 BELT DISC SANDER
1" x 30" belt
5" sanding disc (self adhesive)
1/4" Hp induction motor
3150 FMP speed
Automatic belt tensioning, removable belt platen, lighted rocker switch
Dust spout for shop vacuum hook-up
Includes two tilting tables, 100 grit abrasive belt, 80 grit abrasive disc, miter gauge and wrench
Any other things I need outside of the lathe?
Or does anyone know if these two models would not help as much as I think they would??
I have a similar grinder I turned into a buffer. The speed is a little fast. Works well for polishing with compounds (tripoli etc) OK for applying carnuba wax although you have to be careful because it will burn off the wax you've applied realllllllllly quick! 8O Not at all good for final buffing for the same reason. I bought a couple 1/2" arbors at Harbor Freight to mount buffing wheels on my lathe (hand drill would work too) and that works much better for waxing and final buffing. Part of the fun (and frustration) of this craft is learning to use the tools I have to accomplish what I need to do! Seems like every pipe I make creates a "need" for a new tool!
I would opt for the larger, 1X42 with 8 inch disc delta machine. It is a much larger and heavier duty unit, and I paid $99.99 for it at my local Lowe's a couple years ago. I use the disc to square briar, and the 8 inch is large enough for all the blocks I use (the five inch disc is not). Well worth the extra $30 (depending on current prices). I also use the belt to cut down my stems, to make panel pipes, and I will remove the platen to perform shaping operations on particular shaped pipes. On the larger machine, there is more room to work the stumel if you use the belt for shaping.
Nice Pipe, I can really appreciate the limited tool scenario. I've got my eyes on a nice sander too. I work with a dremel and hand drill too. Although this pipe I'm working on now I don't think is as nice and symmetrical as yours though. It's so hard to make nice seemless gaps with sandpaper and files! Dremel on my friend
It is hard isn't it Josh?
Almost impossible to make things even but I guess it's done all the time by better men then me??
I liked that "Dremel on my friend" haha..
My pipe broker tries real hard not to let on to people that I use a dremel. And I guess it is "cheating" but no more then the crafters who use flippin "Chain Saws" to carve bears and stuff!!! haha..
Hey you know you're good when you can carve a Smooth Billiard with a chain saw right!
Josh how many bits have you found for your dremel that really works well for carving wood? I've got four that I like.
Do you apply the wax with yours? I've found it does great with that.
And lastly do you use the Hand extension attachment thingy?
Love that piece. My best buy so far!
PapaDuke wrote:I bought one of them buffing wheels for my hand drill but I can't get the wax to adhere to it?
What am I doing wrong? Is the drill to weak or what??
Not necessarily too weak, but possibly too slow. Carnuba wax melts at a relatively high temp (for a wax). Depending on the size of the buff, you need a speed anywhere from approx. 1700 rpm for a 6" to 3600 rpm for a 4" to melt the wax and apply it to the pipe. Many standard grade drills run in the 1700-1800 range.
I also use a dremel for some work, specifically smoothing out the rough shaping on a sanding disk. I find the dremel sanding buffs a great tool. They come in 180, 220, and 320 grit. I have arthritis in my left hand from an old injury making it difficult for me to hold the stummel and sand with sandpaper for the length of time it takes so these are a much needed relief! And for cutting my own stems, the dremel is my "weapon of choice" for a lot of the work.
Yes I love the buffs.
It takes only about 2 buffs to really go over a pipe. World of difference!
I also found where 3M sells a Sanding Sponge in 320 grit that works wonders with the curves of a pipe.
I thought it might of had something to do with not heating up the wax?
But let me ask you if I got this straight.
Are you saying that If I buy the bigger buffing wheel I may be able to get it to work?
Here's why I'm thinking this...
you need a speed anywhere from approx. 1700 rpm for a 6" to 3600 rpm for a 4" to melt the wax
I got the 4 inch one.
All good information! Here I only waisted 5 bucks but you guys have already kept me from waisting $70.00+ on a bad grinder.
I thought I was getting close to the end of my list(for now) until Love(geigerpipes) posted the pics of that pantograph under "putting your name on pipes"! This is the only craft I've seen that requires more tools than a cabinet maker!
