Predrilled kits

azpipesmoker · Post by **azpipesmoker** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 12:01 pm

Well I am ready to take the plunge and try my hand at crafting a pipe. I have been reading here for quite sometime and had no real reason to make a post until I was ready.

So what is the best source of the predrilled kits? Obviously the way they have been drilled is important. Penguin? American Smoking Pipe Company? Any advice on who to buy through would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 1:10 pm

I'll insert a shameless plug here:
http://www.pipecrafter.com/pipes/kits/

All sold out at the moment, but send me an email and let me know what you want, I'll put it into the next rotation of kits I make.

Also, you can get them at
http://www.pipemakers.org
http://www.pimopipecraft.com
http://www.amsmoke.com.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 1:58 pm

Yep, support your local Oversized Ostrogoth (you asked for it

), starving pipemaker if you can: http://www.pipecrafter.com/pipes/kits/

Otherwise, here's another list: http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Pipe ... d_Supplies

azpipesmoker · Post by **azpipesmoker** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 2:02 pm

that's not a shameless plug! I had not noticed on your website that you sold predrilled kits. The ones with the tops turned look great since I'll be going at it with nothing but files and sandpaper. And given the reputation of your pipes it's safe to assume they are well drilled. I'll send you out a email as soon as I figure out which style would make the type of pipe I want as my first pipe making experience.

One other question. What do guys without a buffer do to get their pipes waxed? I was considering sending it out to a pipe repair shop to be buffed and waxed after I finish with it. Sound like a workable solution?

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 4:01 pm

azpipesmoker wrote:One other question. What do guys without a buffer do to get their pipes waxed? I was considering sending it out to a pipe repair shop to be buffed and waxed after I finish with it. Sound like a workable solution?

For little more than the cost of what a pipe shop might charge you, you can get a small mandrel and 4" buff to fit your electric drill, plus a small stick of compound and a wafer of carnauba. If you're really desperate, you can even use the mini buffs for a Flex Dremel. Then again, if it's a walk-in pipe shop and the proprietor is cool, get talking pipe with him and he might do it for a couple of bucks or even free.

You could even try one of us refurb guys if you can't do it yourself.

azpipesmoker · Post by **azpipesmoker** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 5:01 pm

Frank wrote:
azpipesmoker wrote:One other question. What do guys without a buffer do to get their pipes waxed? I was considering sending it out to a pipe repair shop to be buffed and waxed after I finish with it. Sound like a workable solution?
For little more than the cost of what a pipe shop might charge you, you can get a small mandrel and 4" buff to fit your electric drill, plus a small stick of compound and a wafer of carnauba. If you're really desperate, you can even use the mini buffs for a Flex Dremel. Then again, if it's a walk-in pipe shop and the proprietor is cool, get talking pipe with him and he might do it for a couple of bucks or even free.

You could even try one of us refurb guys if you can't do it yourself.

See now. I asked about using a electric drill to buff pipes in another forum. I was told it was a VERY bad idea. They had no explanation for it other than it was bad. I even planned to jerry rig some sort of clamp up to hold the drill in place on the work bench.
I think I'll set that up and practice on some cheap ebay buys and see how good I am at it. I may well try one of you refurb guys the first time depending how things go.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 5:32 pm

azpipesmoker wrote:See now. I asked about using a electric drill to buff pipes in another forum. I was told it was a VERY bad idea. They had no explanation for it other than it was bad. I even planned to jerry rig some sort of clamp up to hold the drill in place on the work bench.
I think I'll set that up and practice on some cheap ebay buys and see how good I am at it. I may well try one of you refurb guys the first time depending how things go.

Provided your drill is variable speed so that you can lock in a speed approx. 1500 rpm to 1700 rpm, I don't see any problem. Perhaps those other guys were thinking of the drill running at top speed, which is no good, you'll scorch the pipe. You should be able to "Heath Robinson" something with hose clamps and wood to hold it to the workbench.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sat Sep 13, 2008 5:48 pm

Drill and 4" buff is my suggestion too. If you've got a drill, all you need to do is spend about $20 (ish, might be more) at the hardware store. Get two buffs, two mandrels, some brown compound and carnuba. That's all you really need for the first few pipes. Once you get into it, you might consider white compound and another buff for it, and a very soft fourth buff for final slow speed buffing.

Pay no heed to the naysayers on the other forum. I used a corded drill for a while before deciding to use my drill press. Man that goes back a ways....

At any rate, a drill is a an excellent interim solution for buffing.

azpipesmoker · Post by **azpipesmoker** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 12:22 am

Thanks guys! A drill it is. I knew I never should have paid attention to people from that other forum when it came to making pipes...But I was a little worried about speaking up here with all these famous pipe making names around

Now I see I had no reason to be shy.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 3:08 am

To my knowledge, nobody on this forum will think you/call you stupid for asking questions. A couple of people with that type of attitude have since dropped out of site(pun?) thanks to persuasive argument from That Oversized Ostrogoth

. Everybody has to start somewhere, so just consider yourself an apprentice learning from journeymen and masters and even amateurs like myself.

Incidently, with reference to the 4" buffs, if you find a single buff too narrow you should be able to gang 2 together on the mandrel.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 8:32 am

Frank wrote:thanks to persuasive argument from That Oversized Ostrogoth .

ROFL!!

I think you'll find that folks here are polite, helpful, and willing to share info. Some of us don't get a chance to comment too much due to time, but we try. A lack of a response to a question or inquiry doesn't necessarily mean anything, and certainly isn't a snub. Eventually, someone will chime in.

Everybody has to start somewhere, so just consider yourself an apprentice learning from journeymen and masters and even amateurs like myself.

Incidently, with reference to the 4" buffs, if you find a single buff too narrow you should be able to gang 2 together on the mandrel.

And if you go to the store and find 6" buffs instead of 4", it's no big deal. Get the 6", they'll work fine. The great thing about any craft like this is that there's no hard and fast rules about how to accomplish something. Use what you have, and use what works.

Vermont Freehand · Post by **Vermont Freehand** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 10:02 am

I have some used 6" buffs (drill mountable), a sample chunk of tripoli and carnauba, and a pipe kit that is roughed out already with a cumberland colored lucite stem. I can sell the whole shibang for $30 including priority shipping. Let me know if you are interested. I can always substitute a pipe kit in block form that is not roughed out yet, but if you are using just files and sandpaper, the roughed out pipe might be the ticket, plus the roughed out pipe shows no pits or voids, which may occur in the block kit. The used buffs will need to be sanded clean before applying new tripoli or carnauba, but is easy to do once they are spinning in the drill.

Smitty · Post by **Smitty** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 5:08 pm

I too use the low tech approach to my polishing!
I have an old drill I put in the vise and use a squeeze clamp on the trigger to keep it running. Not pretty but it does a good enough job til something better comes along.

azpipesmoker · Post by **azpipesmoker** » Sun Sep 14, 2008 7:02 pm

thanks for the offer but Kurt is making up a kit that I wanted and I already ordered the buffs and arbors. Also considering buying a Dremel and a flex shaft for it to make the carving go a bit quicker. It doesn't seem like the cost of a dremel is really that far off of good rasps. If I end up doing it with just files at least it will make the fun last longer

Vermont Freehand wrote:I have some used 6" buffs (drill mountable), a sample chunk of tripoli and carnauba, and a pipe kit that is roughed out already with a cumberland colored lucite stem. I can sell the whole shibang for $30 including priority shipping. Let me know if you are interested. I can always substitute a pipe kit in block form that is not roughed out yet, but if you are using just files and sandpaper, the roughed out pipe might be the ticket, plus the roughed out pipe shows no pits or voids, which may occur in the block kit. The used buffs will need to be sanded clean before applying new tripoli or carnauba, but is easy to do once they are spinning in the drill.

Anvil · Post by **Anvil** » Mon Sep 15, 2008 8:11 am

I can say from experience that a dremel will do a fine job. The only problem is that it takes a looooonnnng time to finish that way. If you are going to use a dremel I suggest that you get the roughest sand paper cyliners that they make for the roughing or it will take even longer to complete. On the up side, it is a good oportunity to sit out in the garage and smoke your pipe, assuming that you have one done, while you work.

Greebe · Post by **Greebe** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 4:54 pm

Hey Freehand--

Are you still offering that kit above? Might be interested.

Greebe