Another All Briar

[wdteipen]

Here's the second all briar pipe I made in preparation for the GKCPC contest. I went back and refinished/reworked this one and I like the way it turned out overall. Proportionally, it's not as nice as the other one I posted. I did round the rim just for Tyler. Critiques welcome.

[Ocyd]

I'm no Archimedes or nothing but I'm gonna say that there pipe is 90-95% briar tops.

[wdteipen]

I'm no Archimedes or nothing but I'm gonna say that there pipe is 90-95% briar tops.

I was going to call it an almost all briar but it just didn't have the same ring to it. Neither did 'briar, delrin, silver, carbon' pipe. I suck at this marketing thing really.

[Ocyd]

I'm no Archimedes or nothing but I'm gonna say that there pipe is 90-95% briar tops.

I was going to call it an almost all briar but it just didn't have the same ring to it. Neither did 'briar, delrin, silver, carbon' pipe. I suck at this marketing thing really.

As long as your running experiments you may as well shoot for an integral tennon while your at it. I'd even be willing to test it out for you... for a nominal fee, of course.

[BobR]

I posted one crappy pipe so I guess this allows me to make a comment. The button from the top view looks uneven. Illusion?

But Wayne, I think it's a great pipe. The blast is really good too. Thanks for posting it. When the pros post it helps us uneducated new makers see the way pipes should be made and we can ask questions. Thanks.

I do have a question about your stem. It might be the pictures but it looks like you don't have a straight linear taper from the shank to the button (the top line is not perfectly straight). I assume that's by design. Slightly curved near the shank then transitions to a linear taper about half way? Essentially two different tapers? Is that correct?

Is this traditional or just the way you do it. I like the effect, it looks good.

[wdteipen]

I posted one crappy pipe so I guess this allows me to make a comment. The button from the top view looks uneven. Illusion?

But Wayne, I think it's a great pipe. The blast is really good too. Thanks for posting it. When the pros post it helps us uneducated new makers see the way pipes should be made and we can ask questions. Thanks.

I do have a question about your stem. It might be the pictures but it looks like you don't have a straight linear taper from the shank to the button (the top line is not perfectly straight). I assume that's by design. Slightly curved near the shank then transitions to a linear taper about half way? Essentially two different tapers? Is that correct?

Is this traditional or just the way you do it. I like the effect, it looks good.

You're seeing it right. The really tough thing about briar stems is that you have to work around flaws just like you do with the stummel so I had to suck the bottom part of the stem in to remove a small flaw. The top of the stem was originally the bottom so it doesn't match the top line of the shank quite right.

[wdteipen]

Oh, and I think a briar tenon and a briar mortise is a bad idea. I would imagine they would swell with moisture and heat and lock together. In my mind, either a Delrin mortise sleeve or a Delrin tenon is a better option.

[Ocyd]

It'd be fi Yeah you're right that would never work for those reasons and more, it should never be attempted. It'd be a total disaster. No one should ever do such a thing ever. Let's just put any such silly notions behind us and never think of them again. Honestly I don't know what I was thinking what with all the stress from it raining yesterday and geothermal political situations abroad and meatloaf dinners and such.

[BobR]

Wayne, so barring any flaws would you have a perfectly straight linear taper from the shank to the button or would you start the taper 1/4" in?

Thanks.

[pipedreamer]

Call it, the Briar patch! +1

[notow1]

Wayne, when You make a briar stem do You finish the slot with the same tools You use for ebonite? I use the Kemper tool and I don't think that would work on briar, thanks, Norm.

[wdteipen]

Wayne, so barring any flaws would you have a perfectly straight linear taper from the shank to the button or would you start the taper 1/4" in?

Thanks.

I see what you're saying. In the first 1/4" to 1/2" of the stem I just continue the taper from the shank then taper more drastically to the button. A linear taper from the shank to the button doesn't look right to me. In fact, often times I'll bring the bottom taper in just a touch more than the top line. I especially do this on bents but a little bit can accentuate the bottom line on a straight if it's done subtly.