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ok I had a 5/32 drill bit for my airways that apparently became bent some how, throwing off my last drill enough to piss me off, why is it some bits bend while others would break before bending? Is there a certain kind of tool steel I should be looking for ? I would rather the damn thing break rather than slipping by unnoticed and screwing up a drill

Steel has different properties based on the alloy. Higher carbon content will make the bit sturdier and less prone to bending. But it also makes them harder to sharpen. I just recently purchased a set of Viking drill bits and they are excellent. As long as you clear the chips every quarter inch or so, you shouldn't ever have them bend. I also doubt you will get them to break.

When drilling my airways, I have a short 5/32" bit that is very rigid and is specific to beginning the draft hole. It goes in approx. 1" and is true.
Then I use my long bit.
This is an extra step, but it only takes about 10 seconds extra per pipe and assures me I will run true down the shank.

sandahlpipe wrote:Steel has different properties based on the alloy. Higher carbon content will make the bit sturdier and less prone to bending. But it also makes them harder to sharpen. I just recently purchased a set of Viking drill bits and they are excellent. As long as you clear the chips every quarter inch or so, you shouldn't ever have them bend. I also doubt you will get them to break.

All this. Clearing chips probably being the most important.

Are you cooling your bit somehow too Harry? I keep a bottle of soapy water handy for that. Makes a huge difference.

Thanks Bruce, I don't mind extra work as long as it means perfect! ok, at least close to perfect, what upsets me is I have a shorter bit and I decided to use the longer one.

Sas~ I do use soapy water to cool my tapered bit for the stem, but not drilling the shank, I have put some caraunba wax on my bit when drilling the airway on a shank tho, didn't seem to do anything except smoke more...LOL

BigCasino wrote:Thanks Bruce, I don't mind extra work as long as it means perfect! ok, at least close to perfect, what upsets me is I have a shorter bit and I decided to use the longer one.

Sas~ I do use soapy water to cool my tapered bit for the stem, but not drilling the shank, I have put some caraunba wax on my bit when drilling the airway on a shank tho, didn't seem to do anything except smoke more...LOL

You may not want to wax the drill bit. Just sharpen the point properly and do the two drill bits thing. I don't use soapy water and my drill bits don't get hot as long as I take it slow and the bits sharp. Not saying it's not a good idea. Just not one of my steps.

2 drill bits........? you need like 5

A while back Some one on here suggested using cooking spray on Your tapered bit for the stem and that has been working very well for Me, Norm.

I center then use 3 bits, diff sizes and lengths, then two or three for the mortise, may use dawn soap or bees wax.

Harry,
I've had success with this stye bit. Cousin to gun drills. Not well suited for drill press use as gravity is working against you.
I start the hole with a DeWalt bullet point bit. Clear the chips often, especially since there is no spiral.
Chas.

Thanks Chas! I never saw one of those , cool looking bit, unfortunately I'm still drilling with my press!

oklahoma red wrote:Harry,
I've had success with this stye bit. Cousin to gun drills. Not well suited for drill press use as gravity is working against you.

Whatever happened to your sense of adventure? Just mount a second DP from the ceiling, and learn to use your left arm to control the quill.

Duh.

LatakiaLover wrote:

oklahoma red wrote:Harry,
I've had success with this stye bit. Cousin to gun drills. Not well suited for drill press use as gravity is working against you.

Whatever happened to your sense of adventure? Just mount a second DP from the ceiling, and learn to use your left arm to control the quill.

Duh.

Ha! It would definitely be an adventure with that 10 ton beast of a DP that you have. Pull the dang house down.

oklahoma red wrote:Harry,
I've had success with this stye bit. Cousin to gun drills. Not well suited for drill press use as gravity is working against you.
I start the hole with a DeWalt bullet point bit. Clear the chips often, especially since there is no spiral.
Chas.

What's this drill bit called? Can I order one from McMaster?

What's this drill bit called? Can I order one from McMaster?

They are simply called half-round drills. I do not know if McMaster carries them.
I get mine from MSC. I believe some of Amazon's vendors have them too.

I've never had a bit bend on me. Weird!
And why do you need to lube the bit on ebonite? Acrylic I understand, but ebonite? Never!
When drilling stems, I use a stubby bit to center and then longer bits. Same with airway and mortise on the stummel.

I don't lube anything when drilling. I've gotten some nice bits and haven't had any trouble since.


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