Long shank, no lathe...
Long shank, no lathe...
Any tips about how to keep a long shank straight and round when attempting it without a lathe?
"No reserves, no retreats, no regrets"
"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
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Re: Long shank, no lathe...
files.
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Re: Long shank, no lathe...
Sharp files will help. Other than that, good luck!
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Re: Long shank, no lathe...
Start with everything square, making all sides identical dimension-wise. (use a dial caliper & steel straightedge if available/possible)JMG wrote:Any tips about how to keep a long shank straight and round when attempting it without a lathe?
Then cut off the corners (make an octagon), keeping the edges/corners dead parallel. (easy to see by eye, no measurement required)
Repeat for 16 sides/facets.
Gently & carefully round it.
finis
NOTE -- UNDERSTAND & COMPENSATE FOR THE DWELL EFFECT BEFORE YOU BEGIN, OR IT WILL EAT YOU ALIVE.
Last edited by LatakiaLover on Sun May 25, 2014 11:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
UFOs must be real. There's no other explanation for cats.
Re: Long shank, no lathe...
Files I got. Just not sure how to keep it all round.
"No reserves, no retreats, no regrets"
"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
Re: Long shank, no lathe...
LatakiaLover wrote:Start with everything square, making all sides identical dimension-wise. (use a dial caliper & straightedge if possible)JMG wrote:Any tips about how to keep a long shank straight and round when attempting it without a lathe?
Then cut off the corners (make a octagon), keeping the edges/corners dead parallel. (easy to see by eye, no measurement required)
Repeat for 16 sides/facets.
Gently & carefully round it.
finis
NOTE -- UNDERSTAND & COMPENSATE FOR THE DWELL EFFECT BEFORE YOU BEGIN, OR IT WILL EAT YOU ALIVE.
All this.
ALL YOUR PIPE ARE BELONG TO US!
Re: Long shank, no lathe...
Sasquatch wrote:What is the dwell effect?LatakiaLover wrote:Start with everything square, making all sides identical dimension-wise. (use a dial caliper & straightedge if possible)JMG wrote:Any tips about how to keep a long shank straight and round when attempting it without a lathe?
Then cut off the corners (make a octagon), keeping the edges/corners dead parallel. (easy to see by eye, no measurement required)
Repeat for 16 sides/facets.
Gently & carefully round it.
finis
NOTE -- UNDERSTAND & COMPENSATE FOR THE DWELL EFFECT BEFORE YOU BEGIN, OR IT WILL EAT YOU ALIVE.
All this.
"No reserves, no retreats, no regrets"
"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
Re: Long shank, no lathe...
Rough shape it by eye leaving yourself plenty of wood to work then round your stem/shank joint by turning 1/4 turns filing the seam to match then just eyeball the roundness into the shank. If you're eye for symmetry is decent it shouldn't be too difficult.
Re: Long shank, no lathe...
Imagine a flat surface six inches long and two inches wide. Take a piece of sandpaper 2" x 2" and drag it from one end of the surface to the other. The end of the board has seen sanding action for about 1/10th of a second. One inch in from the end, it sees "1 inch" of sandpaper travel over it. In the middle of the board it sees the whole piece, for maximum effect. Now if you go back and forth a pile of times, you'll basically scoop out a hollow because the ends are not seeing near as much action. This shows up most often on the joint between stem and shank but it will happen any time you are trying to get something flat and working it in a limited area. You have to spend the same time (or more properly, as much motiontime) everywhere.
ALL YOUR PIPE ARE BELONG TO US!
Re: Long shank, no lathe...
Makes good sense. Thanks bud.Sasquatch wrote:Imagine a flat surface six inches long and two inches wide. Take a piece of sandpaper 2" x 2" and drag it from one end of the surface to the other. The end of the board has seen sanding action for about 1/10th of a second. One inch in from the end, it sees "1 inch" of sandpaper travel over it. In the middle of the board it sees the whole piece, for maximum effect. Now if you go back and forth a pile of times, you'll basically scoop out a hollow because the ends are not seeing near as much action. This shows up most often on the joint between stem and shank but it will happen any time you are trying to get something flat and working it in a limited area. You have to spend the same time (or more properly, as much motiontime) everywhere.
"No reserves, no retreats, no regrets"
"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad
"When you're dumb...you've got to be tough." - my dad