Lundell Billiard, third attempt

[Lundell]

So, third attempt at a Billiard. Tell me what you guys think!









Thanks for your time!

[scotties22]

The bowl is very brandy or appleish. It has too much of a belly...could use a tummy tuck. I really like the shank and the stem. The button and slot are looking good too. Looks like you might have a slight gap at the stem/shank junction. Make sure you keep them together when you are sanding.

You are headed in the right direction! Keep it up.....now go make more you slacker

[sandahlpipe]

It does look pretty nice. I agree with Scottie. It's hard to figure out exactly where that taper should be on the bowl. Also, the rim isn't very clearly defined. On a billiard, do have a very slight curve on the bowl up to the rim, but when it comes to the rim, still leave a little bit of definition on the outer part of the rim.

In addition to the belly, you've got a little bit too much meat above the shank. If you look at the top view, you can see where there is more on the bowl on the shank side than the rest. Getting the taper correct will help you there.

Otherwise, I think it's a real improvement from the last. Keep up the good work!


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[Lundell]

It has too much of a belly...could use a tummy tuck.

Yeah well, that makes two of us...
But I see what you mean. Together with Sandahls point about the back, would make it less "brandy".

The button and slot are looking good too.

Actually I'm not that happy with the slot myself. I think it's too... high? I didn't quite make it down to those "4mm behind the button" in fear of sanding through. But it still works. And I see I forgot to polish the inside. But I feel better about it now I got your approval!

Looks like you might have a slight gap at the stem/shank junction. Make sure you keep them together when you are sanding.

I don't think there is, but I'll take a closer look! This time I didn't take it apart until final polishing, made the whole pipe at once so to speak, so if I failed this part again I'm left clueless!

On a billiard, do have a very slight curve on the bowl up to the rim, but when it comes to the rim, still leave a little bit of definition on the outer part of the rim.

In addition to the belly, you've got a little bit too much meat above the shank. If you look at the top view, you can see where there is more on the bowl on the shank side than the rest. Getting the taper correct will help you there.

You're right of course! I don't know what drove me to make the rim completely rounded, but I promise I won't make it like that again!

And it should have more meat taken of the back of the bowl as well. I see that now. I think it's a combination of being too eager to finish up and being chicken, afraid to ruin the tricky shank/bowl junction once I got it somewhat right.

Thanks for your input guys, I REALLY appreciate it!

[sandahlpipe]

I didn't quite make it down to those "4mm behind the button" in fear of sanding through.

Don't worry about sanding through behind the button. As long as your slot is straight and about 1.5mm or 1/16" like what I do, you've easily got room to get the bite zone down to 3mm. I've made stems for myself that have been just under 3mm and no issue. For production, I usually go to 3.5mm, which still leaves 1mm on either side. That's plenty of material if you're using good quality ebonite. You've got to sand through at least one stem to know how far you can go.

[Lundell]

Don't worry about sanding through behind the button. As long as your slot is straight and about 1.5mm or 1/16" like what I do, you've easily got room to get the bite zone down to 3mm. I've made stems for myself that have been just under 3mm and no issue. For production, I usually go to 3.5mm, which still leaves 1mm on either side. That's plenty of material if you're using good quality ebonite. You've got to sand through at least one stem to know how far you can go.

I'm not using ebonite, it's acrylic. I don't know if that is better or worse in this case. And the slot is more like 2mm because, well, I messed up. I think I got it down to like 4,32mm behind the button though, then it started to become see-through and I lost my nerve!
I thought I'd try ebonite once I've finished up the acrylic I've got, but I've got a question on that. Since I don't own a lathe, I'm glueing my pre-made tenons. There's no issues doing that with ebonite is there? Other than the ethics I mean.

[Lundell]

Since I don't own a lathe, I'm glueing my pre-made tenons. There's no issues doing that with ebonite is there?

Nevermind! I found the answer on that myself!

[sandahlpipe]

Acrylic should still be able to get under 4mm even with 2mm slots. It's more brittle than ebonite, but still tough.

For ebonite, I'm not sure what you mean by glueing premade tenons, are you making Delrin tenons and then glueing them into the stem? That should be fine as long as you've roughed up the inside of the mortise a bit and also the outside of the tenon that will be glued. Use as strong an epoxy as you can get. I use a 24 hour epoxy for anything I attach to the pipe that I don't want coming off. Some people just use a 5 minute epoxy and that's probably fine, but I want to go the extra mile.



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[Lundell]

They are called Teflon tennons, I don't know if that's pretty much the same as Delrin, but the procedure of glueing them seems the same.
I bought these: http://shop.hermanns.dk/product.asp?product=3453

[sandahlpipe]

Yeah. Same procedure would apply, though it looks like your Teflon is already roughed up. Be sure to wipe off excess epoxy before you let it dry.