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I was just wondering what sorts of things others do to modify molded stem blanks. So far, I have only worked with acrylic stem blanks and so my comments apply to them. With blanks, it is often obvious when looking that it is a blank. One of the things I do is to try and modify it to take away the appearance that it is a blank.

One sign of a blank is the slot. I found that taking needle files to this area allows one to open up the slot and to put a better taper inside the slot. This also seems to improve airflow through the stem. It requires a lot of hand work but the final results are worth it.

Another sign of a blank is the thickness of the stem and button. I always file down the thickness of a blank in order to end up with a more comfortable bite. For me, heavy modification really helps when I use a molded stem. I also sand and round off all the edges of the button. When I'm done, the stem seems infinately more comfortable to me. This is especially true on the edge of the button that faces the stummel.

Has anyone else done any stem blank modifications?

Stephen

I am just about to start messing with a stem so your comments are timely. The tips you had WB are very helpful.

I don't have a lathe yet, and I'm concerned about sanding down the stem symetrically. Does anyone have any tipes? One idea I had was to clamp the tennon in a drill chuch and just spin the stem while holding sand paper to it. Would this work?

Nick,

That method works rather well as long as your tenon is round. Just be careful not to overtighten the chuck and crack the tenon.

I've found, however, that any stem mods I do, I prefer to use the various sanders and a collection of files rather than the lathe. I mean, it works to a point, but then you've got to apply the elbow grease - especially when talking about molded stems.

Vulcanite or acrylic rod, on the other hand, really requires some lathe work before anything else.

Thanks Kurt.

Well, all was going well until the tennon just snapped off. One stem out the window.

D'OOH!

Nuts!!

What kind if stem was it?

A vulcanite tapered stem. Honestly, it was too long anyway. The seahorse turned out to be a very small pipe - namly due to yours truely cuttung the backside too short. D'OOH! - and needs a short stem to look right. Somthing about 2 1/2 inches long.

Any chance I could get one of you guys to fire up a blank to that length? It needs a pretty thin tennon too. I was planning on using a 9/32 tennon, but a thinner one would leave a bit more wood.

I actually do quite a bit to my stem bits.

After turning the tenon I drill it out with a 11/64" taper bit and a 1/16" bit. Then I polish the interior with 400 grit sandpaper.

After that I work with diamond burrs on the button end of the moutpiece to make sure it does not whistle.

While carving, I will take a rasp and flatten the bit right before the mouthpiece to a very thin bite and sand down the button itself a little.

Sometimes while carving I will change the actuall shape of the bit. This pipe started as a round saddle and ended up as an oval half saddle.

John,

I love that stem! Question, what grade rasps do you use on the vulcanite? I've found that I need to use a pretty fine file, and it take a good deal of time to remove a large amount of stock to a larger stem...

Any thoughts?

Actually I just modified a stem blank for the first time today (of course it's only the third pipe I've ever made...)

After reading all the posts here, and seeing comments about the bit and extra material, I finally noticed it on my stems. On my latest pipe I tapered the stem for appearance sake using strips of sandpaper.

I then filed down the bit to make it smaller and smoother (using an emory board), then wrapped some sandpaper around a pill bottle and made the bit into a fishtail (these feel comfortable to me for some reason).

It does indeed give the pipe a whole new look, and makes it appear more custom and hand-made than with just the "stock" stems provided with the predrilled kits.

so, thanks for all the tips!

john