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This was a tough one. Nothing like facets and radii having to converge exactly right for the shape to work. Damn Danes. What were they thinking?

The reason the pipe needed a new stem was because the original had been de-greened several times, and had "shrunk" accordingly. There was a significant step at the stem/shank junction, the button was almost gone, and the bite zone was Saran Wrap thin. .132" De-greening it again would have probably cut through to the airway, and if not the pipe would have been too fragile to clench.

Leveling the stem/shank junction when there are six flat areas is a bitch because it must be done without touching the shank.

I normally don't take shop photos, but occasionally document the interesting projects to pass on here.

The first shot looks weird because I don't use a lathe. Here's the link to an earlier thread where I show everything step-by-step, and the "tape handle" is explained if you're interested: viewtopic.php?f=10&t=8354

Once again, George, damn fine work.

Yes, good work and so on, but I want to see the pipe!

Absolutely stunning. I can't imagine how much work it must be to not sand the shank when fitting the stem.

One of these days I'd like to watch you do one of these stem replacements. Crazy good.

Terrible job, George. There's dust all over the stem!

baweaverpipes wrote:Terrible job, George. There's dust all over the stem!

And I just installed a new dust collector, too. I think I'm gonna ask 'em for my money back.

sandahlpipe wrote:I can't imagine how much work it must be to not sand the shank when fitting the stem.

Nothing to it. You just cut off a length of rod stock, set the old stem beside it, then use the tools in your shop to remove all the material from the rod stock piece that doesn't look like the original.

Charl wrote:Yes, good work and so on, but I want to see the pipe!

It's just a smallish "Danish Ball" shape. Slightly under five inches overall. (Which is another reason this was a fussy job---short stems are as tough to make as long ones, just for different reasons.)

Given the condition of the original stem, the pipe is either quite old or was heavily used in a short time. I don't know Bang's nomenclature regarding dating. The "7" means it's an American market mid-grade, and that's about all I can tell. There are no carver initials anywhere, unless they were once on the stem. Any Bang enthusiasts here who can decode the stamp?

PS -- No, the pipe hasn't been worked on beyond the new stem. Please ignore the dullness. It'll be all fresh and shiny before it's over.

Nice work George

Whoa! I have made a few replacement stems without touching the shank but a faceted one.... No thank you. Nice work. How many hours did you have in on this one?

i agree, great job. I also agree with Jesse about seeing a video of your stem making process without all the explaning and demonstrating you did in the last one. Maybe a 2x speed video. BTW. did the hockey shin guard tape end up working out for you?

Amazing work, George. Dare I say your stem is better than the original and not just because of condition.

Wow, very nice work, George! I'd be interested to know how you cut the tenon without using a lathe.

sethile wrote:I'd be interested to know how you cut the tenon without using a lathe.

You guys push the stationary part into the spinny part, and I push the spinny part into the stationary part. aka - I use a large frame, high precision drill press:

Solomon_pipes wrote:I also agree with Jesse about seeing a video of your stem making process without all the explaning and demonstrating you did in the last one. Maybe a 2x speed video.

I enjoy teaching, but that would be too much like a "selfie" and I'm not wired that way. Plus an Eye in the Sky would feel voyeuristic and creepy.

BTW. did the hockey shin guard tape end up working out for you?

Yup. It's a useful addition to my tape arsenal. Too thick for level-masking, but excellent as a file guide when several layers are used. Thanks for the tip.

PremalChheda wrote:Whoa! I have made a few replacement stems without touching the shank but a faceted one.... No thank you. Nice work. How many hours did you have in on this one?

Facets are the toughest to get exactly right, for sure.

I rarely keep close track of time because I stop and start throughout the day. Usually about two hours on and two off. This little monster took four or five sessions. Probably half that time was spent on leveling.

It takes the right circumstances for me to mess with this sort of thing, though. A pipe has to be either really meaningful to someone or intrinsically valuable, AND I have to like the person doing the asking. Helluva business model, I know, but there it is.

As for how it was done, there are a number of steps, but it's straightforward. Mostly it relies on knowing your tools--in this case lots of top-quality files and both push and pull scrapers, keeping them razor sharp, being able to see really well, and having a steady hand. Plus, a programmable army of vulcanite-eating nanobots never hurts.

Thanks LL!

Wow, very cool tenon set up, George!

That's nice work George.

andrew