Looking for suggestions

[LatakiaLover]

Because my first attempt at a how-to video was received better than I expected, together with my Inner Perfectionist's desire to make a better one, I've decided to take another swing at it.

I don't know what people want to see, though. The bite zone/button thing was based on contest judging and years of "repair observation," so pretty much chose itself. Beyond that I really have no idea. I have a pretty deep bag of tricks & techniques, but there's no point in showing a solution for a problem that everyone already has their own answer for.

So, anything come to mind? Keep in mind that I don't use a lathe, and stummel stuff (beyond refinishing, topping, and mortises, anyway) isn't my thing.

Fire away. I need to know what you guys actually want, not what I think you might want.

Thanks.

[Massis]

perhaps you have experience in readjusting the fit between stem and shank? Especially for those without a lathe that's a nasty bit of work!

I know I'd love to see some tips in that field, because even WITH a lathe I don't always get em perfect

[LatakiaLover]

perhaps you have experience in readjusting the fit between stem and shank? Especially for those without a lathe that's a nasty bit of work!

I know I'd love to see some tips in that field, because even WITH a lathe I don't always get em perfect

That can be a bitch, alright. And definitely something that involves Sneaky Stuff more often than not.

It never occurred to me as a topic, either, so this thread is already paying off. Thanks!

[notow1]

I too would could use some tips and tricks to square the stem shank junction without a lathe. I think a video on that topic would be very helpful. Thanks, Norm

[pipedreamer]

The above would be valuable. Your first made me re think some procedures. My opinion is whatever you come up with will be valuable. It does not hurt to practice, drill, and rehearse. Looking forward to the new video.

[sethile]

I'd be interested in seeing how you deal with the stem shank fitting too. Especially in the context of making a new stem for an existing pipe. I'm pretty happy with how this joint and fit works out when making pipes from scratch, but when I have to make a new stem for an existing pipe, that can be a real pain for me, and I'm guessing you have a bunch of interesting experience with that!

[d.huber]

I second Scott's idea.

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[scotties22]

I even have a few pipes that I could "volunteer" for the project

[taharris]

I'd be interested in seeing how you deal with the stem shank fitting too. Especially in the context of making a new stem for an existing pipe. I'm pretty happy with how this joint and fit works out when making pipes from scratch, but when I have to make a new stem for an existing pipe, that can be a real pain for me, and I'm guessing you have a bunch of interesting experience with that!

Also, how do you get a perfectly smooth external transition from stem to shank on a retrofit without touching the shank?

And thanks for doing this.

Todd

[LatakiaLover]

I just realized Massis was talking about making the stem and shank faces parallel---removing any "light gap"---not the mortise/tenon fit. (The word "fit" was what tripped me up)

Fixing THAT is an even bigger bitch.

90% of it can be avoided in the first place, though, and won't cost you a dime. No need to make a video, I'll just tell you now:

Let the stummel rest on a shelf for a month or two between every fabrication step.

That's it.

Really.

It's because the moisture in a briar block is never evenly distributed, but follows a surface area to volume dependent curve. And every time the ratio changes---which is every time the block is shaped and/or drilled---the moisture inside the block shifts in response. The moisture of a carver's hands even figures into it. And wet briar is larger than dry briar.

The net result? Drilling the mortise and facing the shank on a briar block that was recently roughed in guarantees there will be a light gap when the moisture in the block stops migrating a couple months later.

End of story.

Removing that gap once it exists on a "shape stable" pipe should only be repair work. A carver who follows good "moisture protocol" with his blocks should never have the problem.

[W.Pastuch]

Use of silver bands, that's a good topic if you ask me!

[ajpl]

Also, how do you get a perfectly smooth external transition from stem to shank on a retrofit without touching the shank?

And thanks for doing this.

I second this.

[LatakiaLover]

Use of silver bands, that's a good topic if you ask me!

Banding---banding well, anyway---is definitely a tricky business. Plenty of video-worthy material, there.

But intentionally banding a pipe for decorative purposes at the time it's made has virtually nothing in common technique-wise with repairing/stabilizing a cracked shank. Demonstrating the former would mean I'd have to design and make a pipe just for the video, plus require the camera guy to hang around for unacceptably long periods between steps; while latter would be of interest only to other repairmen. All seven of them. Or is it five? http://talbertpipes.blogspot.com/2012/0 ... 6504225223

If you are attracted to banded pipes yourself for cosmetic purposes, keilworth, it's worth noting that so-called factory bands are flush in both directions, a stand-alone repair band has a ridge in both directions, and a repair band that was added at the same time as a new stem has a ridge only on the shank side. The latter two indicate damage, while the first does not. You don't want your new pipes looking like they were broken and repaired.

Before someone asks, yes, it's possible (with considerable difficulty) to flush mount a repair band, but covering that subject would reduce the video's potential audience to one or two.

[LatakiaLover]

Also, how do you get a perfectly smooth external transition from stem to shank on a retrofit without touching the shank?

I second this.

That's another "applicable only to repairmen" thing. I'm looking for a subject that would be helpful to carvers.

[d.huber]

Removing that gap once it exists on a "shape stable" pipe should only be repair work. A carver who follows good "moisture protocol" with his blocks should never have the problem.

So what you mean to say is, "Just make stems with flares and counter sink them into the shank face instead if you want to complete and sell pipes at a reasonable pace," right?

[LatakiaLover]

Removing that gap once it exists on a "shape stable" pipe should only be repair work. A carver who follows good "moisture protocol" with his blocks should never have the problem.

So what you mean to say is, "Just make stems with flares and counter sink them into the shank face instead if you want to complete and sell pipes at a reasonable pace," right?

I get the humor, but it actually isn't that way for the perfection-driven uber-carvers who routinely rest their briar between steps. They just keep enough pipes in process that waiting is never an issue. Set one down for a nap, pick up one that's fully rested.

btw, I realize that resting briar between steps isn't reasonable or practical for most carvers. It is, however, the only way to avoid a light gap developing between the shank and stem faces as the pipe sits waiting to be purchased (or soon after it has been sold). Once again, it's one of those, "How the Danes do it" things. One of the many small ways those guys get the big bucks.

If the light gap was there from the beginning, that's a technical error. Lathe usage or (possibly) an equipment issue. (But unless you are using a drum type tenon cutter on a lathe, I can't help you, I'm afraid.)

[LatakiaLover]

Been thinking, me.

How about stem shaping in the overall sense? How to preserve lines, achieve smooth bends, create/utilize tricky "wedge" tapers (as opposed to much easier duckbill tapers), and so forth?

Lots of meat on those bones, both technically and artistically.

[scotties22]

That would be right up my alley

[The Smoking Yeti]

Been thinking, me.

How about stem shaping in the overall sense? How to preserve lines, achieve smooth bends, create/utilize tricky "wedge" tapers (as opposed to much easier duckbill tapers), and so forth?

Lots of meat on those bones, both technically and artistically.

This one sounds good to me.

Also, a piece on slot work would never go amiss.

[Massis]

same here, especially the tricky corners and edges on a saddle bit puzzle me ...