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I have a large straight pipe with 7/8" tobacco chamber and an 11/64" airhole. Current mortise is 5/16", but I could go bigger to support this large pipe as the shank OD is 3/4". I went from doing things on a drill press with pre-fab stems and am trying my first stem on my metal lathe. My PIMO book says to drill the STEM air hole with a 1/8" bit halfway down the stem, and a 3/32" bit from the other side. I have read posts here and in P&T magazine about keeping the air hole diameter consistent between the stummel and button. Given that I have an 11/64" air hole in the shank, should I follow PIMO's advice, or should I drill a larger air hole in the STEM to better match the diameter of the air hole in my stummel? Any advice would be appreciated

Thanks,

Jeff

You have hit on a world wide argument. 9/64 would be good. You want flow with no turbulence.Read the info again on making a stem and drilling same with in mind you are just dealing in different numbers.Many pipes are under bored leading to numerous problems as gurgling, moisture, steam, etc. making for a hot, poor smoke. There is a point of diminishing return however. I found out early that 9mm filter pipes smoke hotter and wetter with a small airway system. I make a lot of these and after 52 years have enough evidence to say it is a fact. If you go too large you end up with a tasteless smoke. A happy medium has to be reached. Very large pipes I may go bigger on the draught ,stem bore etc.; or smaller for a less than average size pipe.You have to read, experiment and see what works best for you desired outcomes and listen to those smoking your pipes. The why? There are several reasons many make under bored pipes. In some cases thats how they were taught and thats it. Another reason would be the fear of burnout.There are many reasons, but what is important to you is to give your clients the best smoke they ever had. You may catch some heat for opening up your pipes. Usually some purist ass that talks about refined smoking. Good luck on your pipe and thanks for asking.

I meant to put this in the stem section, so thanks for the reply regardless of my misplaced question. Pipedreamer, are you saying that I can go 9/64'" in the stem even with an 11/64" air hole in the shank? I'm assuming I will need to taper down a bit for the last inch or so at the button as well. I have a few Mauro Armellinis that smoke great, and I find that there are three different diameters from tobacco chamber to button. One in the shank, one on the tenon side of the stem, and one at the button side of the stem. I don't need perfection for this first pipe on the lathe, but I just want it to smoke good without messing it up.

Yes.

Check these tapered drill bits out. I don't remember where I got mine, but these prices don't seem too bad (One of the guys posted this link in a thread not long ago). I think mine is a 5/32", but I'm not sure. I have a shorter one thats probably 4 inches long and a longer one that is closer to 8 inches long. If you can only get one, get the longer one.

http://www.mcfeelys.com/tapered-drill-bits

I generally drill my airway in the stummal at 5/32", sometimes 11/64"...depends on what I'm feeling. Then I use the tapered bit to drill all but the last (button side) inch(ish) of the stem. Turn it around and drill the button end with a 1/16" bit. Take a good look in the Stem section and you'll find all types of great techinques, tools and advise to take things home from there.

Good Luck!! And welcome aboard!

Keep in mind your draft,mortise,air,will all be different.Then at the bit you flare out compensating for the taper.IE: draft 11/64, air ,9/64,mortise,25/64,taper9/64within an inch and a half or so, bit1/8 flaring out. This would be a 9mm pipe. hope this helps.

drills and cutters.com has all of the drills in all finishes

Gents, thanks for the helpful links and hints. For this one, I think I will try drilling 9/64" on the tenon side and flaring at the bit with a smaller drill bit at the mouthpiece end as pipedreamer mentioned. For the future, I like the idea of the tapered bits, and then just doing a smaller drill from the bit side.

1) Scotties22, what size mortise do you drill when using a 5/32" air hole? Also, what size mortise for a 11/64" air hole?

2) Pipedreamer, so I should shoot for roughly a 1/4" difference between the OD of the tenon and the inner diameter of the air hole in the stem-making the wall of the tenon about 1/8" thick?

always use judgement, planning,as in measure twice, cut once. Nothing is exact. Like scotty said 5/32 is what she uses often. I may make a pipe sans filter and cut 5/32 for mortise and leave the rest the same if the transitions are smooth.You still have countersinks and polishing to do.I think if you read the stem section, it will clear up developing questions.The advice is sound written by a lot of experienced pipe makers.

Usually my mortises are all 5/16". On bent pipes they might be bigger to accomodate the drilling. But, if they are straight or slightly bent I tend to stick with 5/16". On the small side I've gone 1/4" and 9/32" on a couple of smaller straight pipes with narrow shanks. You generally want to leave at least 1/8" between the mortise and the outside of the shank to make sure it is strong enough and won't crack.

Thanks for the details pipedreamer and Calamity Jane, I have more reading to do. I'm just thinking of setting up a plan where there is a good balance of wood left on the shank to avoid cracking, a big enough mortise for the airhole, and enough vulcanite left on the tenon for strong support or a large pipe. I will just experiment and see what works. Cheers.

Try drawing up a straight pipe with the shank being at least 5/8" on the outside with a 5/16" mortise and a 5/32" airway. Draw it all up and see how it looks. That will leave the shank way big enough (that unless your tenon is big and you force it) that you shouldn't have to worry about the shank cracking.

Good luck. Post pictures in progress....that's always helpfull if you have questions once you get into the block.

My two cents is this:

Buddy, no one is perfect their first time. They try to rush it, finish too quickly, and the customer isn't satisfied. Spend a selfless amount of time doing this, and you and your's will be both be satisfied. Hold back the urge for a fast result. Work on the process and once you get that right, everything starts to fit together just right. Really, it just takes time and lots of practice to get things like this right. Take it slow, enjoy every moment, and for the love of God, don't hurt anyone or yourself. There, we had the talk. I love you son.

Couldn't help it.

Jonathan

Gershom wrote:My two cents is this:

Buddy, no one is perfect their first time. They try to rush it, finish too quickly, and the customer isn't satisfied. Spend a selfless amount of time doing this, and you and your's will be both be satisfied. Hold back the urge for a fast result. Work on the process and once you get that right, everything starts to fit together just right. Really, it just takes time and lots of practice to get things like this right. Take it slow, enjoy every moment, and for the love of God, don't hurt anyone or yourself. There, we had the talk. I love you son.

Couldn't help it.

Jonathan

I agree and disagree with your comment, Johnathan. It is true that rushing a piece is the worst mistake, at least in my experience, that one can make. My biggest obstacle to making good pipes is myself! That said, you can spend too long on a work, and if you're like me, no matter what you make you'll be able to see the room for improvement. At some point you've got to "finish" and push it out the door. Besides, I'm no Bo or Jess; my pipes don't sell for enough for me to justify spending 100 hours on a pipe. No, I'd rather make the best pipe I know how in 5-15 hours and then start another. Repetition is more important here than perfection. And, to tell the truth, all but the most snobbish high grade collectors won't even notice the umpteen thousand little mistakes you make. Just make sure you are constantly trying to work on improving, work slow enough to focus on the result you want to achieve, and above all else HAVE FUN!!

Thoughts? I'm sure the professionals have some enlightening insight.

I ended up ordering some tapered bits from McFeely's and will wait until I get them before cutting into that precious ebonite. I have made 15 or so pipes pre-lathe with molded stems, but am learning anew with a metal lathe, and especially so with the hand made stems. Main reason for waiting-that ebonite rod stock ain't cheap. No acrylic here. I will take the yellow salty spackley taste and feel of vulcanite/ebonite until death. I hate every acrylic stem I own, but smoke them because they happen to be attached to pipes I love.

Amen.