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I'm gonna hold your feet to the fire Walt. Twas not too long ago you offered to make a video showing your 1 minute method for cutting stem slots. A lot of us that are slot challenged are patiently waiting. Of course my mom always told me to say please.
Chas.

Man, I know... At first, I was waiting on some clear acrylic rod that I had ordered just for the purpose of making that video. Well, it came in a while back, and I just haven't gotten around to it. Sorry.

I'll try to get it done soon!

PS: In all fairness, I think I said "five minutes"

I could have sworn you said 30 seconds. I was giving you the benefit of the doubt by stretching it to one minute.
Better be quick about it or you'll be sentenced to 50 strokes with a Ream and Clean.
Chas.

oklahoma red wrote: Better be quick about it or you'll be sentenced to 50 strokes with a Ream and Clean.
Chas.

Ouch! What kind of twisted mind thought of that punishment!

Hooray! Another online tutorial from the Waltech School of pipe crafting! Your turning video really helped me out. I could be making two pipes a day if my stem slots weren't holding me back.

Step 1: Get a long (8" maybe) piece of 53-56 wire gauge piano wire. Shape the end of it like a spoon bit. Drill your whole stem from the tenon side using an eighth inch tapered bit. Plunge through the last 3/4" of the stem (that is to say the button end) with the piano wire.

Step 2: Use the little circular saw blade tool in the Dremel to cut a shallow slot in the face of the stem with the hole at its center.

Step 3: Mount a 53-56 wire gauge drill bit (available from Widget Supply) in the hand piece of your Dremel. You should have at least 3/8" of unfluted shank sticking out so that you're not cutting at the opening of the slot when you're cutting down deeper inside the slot.

Step 4: Mount the hand piece horizontally in a vise on your work table.

Step 5: Using the center hole as your starting point, run the bit into the stem, and mill the slot pulling up and toward you. Stay within the groove you made using the saw tool. Turn the stem over and mill the other side of the slot the same way.*

Step 6: Clean up with a modified 18 TPI bi-metal jigsaw or sawzall blade.

Step 7: Use a flat needle file to remove any tool marks.

Step 8: Use some 220 and 400 grit sandpaper to clean up the slot and round over the perimeter of the slot.

* You will have more control if you buy a cheap foot-pedal switch from Harbor Freight and plug your Dremel into that. This way you can come on and off the power as needed, and it will make for a smoother slot with less cleanup.

Takes longer to type than it takes to do. However, Walt, this still doesn't let you off the hook for the video.

TJ

Thanks for the info Todd.
I realize that one must practice then practice some more to master the technique. Where I have problems is getting a good clean and properly centered cut with the circular saw blade and in the process of creating the funnel with the drill bit I often butcher the slot. That is why I built the contraption to make the technique machine controlled rather than hand controlled. I know of one maker that mills the slot to a certain depth with a 1/16th end mill first then cleans out the guts with a saw blade as you suggest. As is often said in here, one must find their own way that they feel comfortable with. I think everyone would agree that seeing or reading about how someone else performs various tasks is always very helpful.
One other question, you mention drilling with a 1/8'' tapered bit. Do you not ascribe to the "open draw" theory of a larger hole (such as .156) or do you open it up later or do you get good enough draw with .125 or........?
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Chas.

oklahoma red wrote:Thanks for the info Todd.
I realize that one must practice then practice some more to master the technique. Where I have problems is getting a good clean and properly centered cut with the circular saw blade and in the process of creating the funnel with the drill bit I often butcher the slot. That is why I built the contraption to make the technique machine controlled rather than hand controlled. I know of one maker that mills the slot to a certain depth with a 1/16th end mill first then cleans out the guts with a saw blade as you suggest. As is often said in here, one must find their own way that they feel comfortable with. I think everyone would agree that seeing or reading about how someone else performs various tasks is always very helpful.
One other question, you mention drilling with a 1/8'' tapered bit. Do you not ascribe to the "open draw" theory of a larger hole (such as .156) or do you open it up later or do you get good enough draw with .125 or........?
Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.
Chas.

Yes, I open it up later once I can ascertain how deep I need to drill with the tapered bit to achieve a continuous 5/32" diameter airway. It will vary depending on the length of the stem.

TJ

oklahoma red wrote: Where I have problems is getting a good clean and properly centered cut with the circular saw blade and in the process of creating the funnel with the drill bit I often butcher the slot.

Part of the trick is is to make sure the drill bit is NOT cutting anything as you insert it into the stem blank. - So - Insert it into the hole - all the way - THEN, apply side pressure in the direction of the slot while you drag the bit out, cutting the slot as you do. Just repeat several times until you have the slot - both sides. Then clean-up.

kkendall wrote:

oklahoma red wrote: Where I have problems is getting a good clean and properly centered cut with the circular saw blade and in the process of creating the funnel with the drill bit I often butcher the slot.

Part of the trick is is to make sure the drill bit is NOT cutting anything as you insert it into the stem blank. - So - Insert it into the hole - all the way - THEN, apply side pressure in the direction of the slot while you drag the bit out, cutting the slot as you do. Just repeat several times until you have the slot - both sides. Then clean-up.

I can see where the foot switch would be a real help. Insert the bit with the motor off then one doesn't worry about mangling anything.
Chas.

Yeah, there's nothing like having the bit spinning like crazy and trying to hit a little hole dead center. I have to clamp my hands to the work bench to keep steady enough to get the job done. I'm a bit of a fidgiter and have trouble holding still (or steady) for any amount of time.

scotties22 wrote:Yeah, there's nothing like having the bit spinning like crazy and trying to hit a little hole dead center. I have to clamp my hands to the work bench to keep steady enough to get the job done. I'm a bit of a fidgiter and have trouble holding still (or steady) for any amount of time.

I think Starbucks still pays medical benefits even for half-time.

TJ

They sure do, TJ.....I have an aunt that works there. The fidgits run in the family