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just wondering what you all think is the best way to go and why
Thanks in advance

If by tenon cutter you are referring to the Pimo tool I would say don't waste your money. That thing is incredibly inaccurate. Although not ideal in all situations, delrin certainly made my life a lot easier.

Yeah the Tenon cutter by pimo or at PME Vs using Derlin

Thanks

use delrin

rev

I have a precision metal lathe and could easily cut tenons.

I use delrin.

I've never tried any tenon cutter so I can't suggest using them.

If you have a metal lathe use it to turn the tenon, for me high-grade artisan pipes must have turned tenon.

If you don't have a lathe use derlin.

I love delrin for a lot of reasons: perfect fit every time, no more broken tenons, no wasted time polishing the tenon, self lubricating for easy stem removal, cheap, allows you to make at least one or two more stems from a rod, easy to use on a lathe and drill press.

Disadvantages: stigma that high grade pipes only use integral tenons; if you're using translucent acrylic I think it looks tacky if you can see the delrin inside; making sure there is no gap, shoulder, or any inconsistency in the airstream created inside the stem when you seat the delrin.

PME tool advantages:.....well it allows you to turn a rudimentary tenon on prefabs and some rod stock, "cheapish" (ie I don't need to buy a drill press or lathe)

Disadvantages: Cheap, inaccurate, tough getting it to fit well in some prefabs, slow, frustrating to the max

archaggelosmichail wrote: for me high-grade artisan pipes must have turned tenon

Ocelot55 wrote: Disadvantages: stigma that high grade pipes only use integral tenons;

These two comment surprise me. Where are you guys getting this feedback? I know lots of the highest grade pipe makers are using Delrin. They use it because they believe it to be a superior tenon material, not because they can't turn a tenon.

Tyler, while it is not my opinion that an integral tenon is necessary on a "high grade" pipe that seems to be what is floating around the boards these days. I honestly couldn't tell you where, how, or why the opinion has come about.

Ocelot55 wrote:Tyler, while it is not my opinion that an integral tenon is necessary on a "high grade" pipe that seems to be what is floating around the boards these days. I honestly couldn't tell you where, how, or why the opinion has come about.

I must be reading the wrong boards.

For me delrin is a no-brainer. Oh, and sometimes I turn tenons, sometimes I go Delrin. It's situational for me.

Definitely use Delrin. 5/16" works great.

I'm with you, Yeti. I did have to buy some 1/4" stuff for the smaller shanks. Anybody use larger than 5/16"?

I have been using the predrilled delrin bits from pme I think I would prefer using delrin rods, where do y'all buy them from?

rev

Delrin rods from McMaster Carr:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-aceta ... ds/=lf9i40

the rev wrote:I have been using the predrilled delrin bits from pme I think I would prefer using delrin rods, where do y'all buy them from?

rev

are you speaking of the ones that thread into the stem? that is what I have been using they seem to work well but drilling and taping lucite isn't a lot of fun, I will be trying this method on vulcanite tomorrow

Tyler wrote:

archaggelosmichail wrote: for me high-grade artisan pipes must have turned tenon

These two comment surprise me. Where are you guys getting this feedback? I know lots of the highest grade pipe makers are using Delrin. They use it because they believe it to be a superior tenon material, not because they can't turn a tenon.

Of course everyone can turn a tenon, and most of my clients don't care for derlin or anything else,BUT:


1) Along with turning mortise on the lathe, it's the best and safest way for perfect facing.

2) It's a solid stem, which means that there is no possibillity to have little gaps into the stem(there is no drill bit with flat face) that cause bad humidity in an area that can't absorb it.

3) Most of today's pipes have derlin tenon, so it's a surprise for the man that opens the pipe to see an integral tenon cause referring to old-style pipemaking.

4)Today's market in Europe(mainly because of 9mm pipes) is full with derlin tenons, so the integral tenon it's just another way for me to seperate from that.

I started by learning to turn an integral tenon and it's a great and valuable skill to have. For the last... I dunno 6 pipes I've made, I used delrin. It's much easier, provides a snug fit every time, and, for me, wastes less material. I went through a bunch of ebonite learning to cut an integral tenon. Probably an entire rod. I could've saved myself those $50 if I'd started out using delrin.

I'd heard the opinion that an integral tenon was superior floating around other boards, yet artisans like Jeff Gracik and Todd Johnson continue to use delrin tenons. That's enough for me.

As a collector, I don't really have a preference. If the stem fits snugly, great.

Ocelot55 wrote:I'm with you, Yeti. I did have to buy some 1/4" stuff for the smaller shanks. Anybody use larger than 5/16"?

I'm actually really enjoying the 1/4" that I've got. It's all I use and I love it. It allows for more leeway when shaping the shank, as you stated, and is still very strong with a 5/32 hole through it. If I ever make a heavy pipe, I'll probably turn an integral tenon instead of buying 5/16" delrin for a single project.