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I know that Tim West and PME both sell them. Who's is better, or are they about the same? With the arbor they are just about the same price, so that isn't the issue.

I've actually got one I purchased from PME a few years ago. Never even used it yet. But I have to say, it's well made and I need to dig it out and give it a try, as I've used one, just not my own.

I orderd one from Tim West yesterday. I should probably have it early next week. It was pretty much the same price as PME's and I was getting a few other things from him as well. I will post some pictures after I sand a knuckle or two off....

The wheels are the same, there made by Trent Rudat www.briarpipetooling.com he's a great guy and will be happy to help you hope this helps

To be honest, I think you could make one for under $10 and in a relatively short amount of time. I made one from aluminum, but I suspect you could use a good plywood (5/8" or so). Cover that with a wool felt, and you'd be in good shape.

e Markle wrote:To be honest, I think you could make one for under $10 and in a relatively short amount of time. I made one from aluminum, but I suspect you could use a good plywood (5/8" or so). Cover that with a wool felt, and you'd be in good shape.

Most my pipe making tooling has been made by me. That's part of the fun - you can't buy this stuff at the hardware store.

I believe Talbert made one from wood. I forget where I saw the blog.

Okay, hate to be so ignorant here, but what is the functional difference between a french sanding wheel and this:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ ... HQu8C4730Q

or this:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAK ... TPG=INLMK3

Except a hell of a lot more money?

I have one that has a male end, cost about $8 and uses adhesive backed sanding pads which are cheap. The only thing I don't like is that you can't get high grit in the pads, like 400 or 800 in the 6" wheel size. I did buy a three inch one, however, and I can get up to 800 grit in that.

I just chuck it in a jacobs chuck in my lathe and go.

That's what I use, in 5" size - but there's no reason not to use 6" if you prefer it.

I even make arbors to hold the backup pads on a motor or lathe:
http://www.pipecrafter.com/pipes/tools/

For sandpaper, I use Abralon for sanding, and resin-bonded grinding discs with loop (of hook and loop fame) tape on the back.

It works for me, but I understand why other folks would want something different.

wmolaw wrote:Okay, hate to be so ignorant here, but what is the functional difference between a french sanding wheel and this:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ ... HQu8C4730Q

or this:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAK ... TPG=INLMK3

Except a hell of a lot more money?

I have one that has a male end, cost about $8 and uses adhesive backed sanding pads which are cheap. The only thing I don't like is that you can't get high grit in the pads, like 400 or 800 in the 6" wheel size. I did buy a three inch one, however, and I can get up to 800 grit in that.

I just chuck it in a jacobs chuck in my lathe and go.

french wheel has the sand paper wrap around it and is affixed to the back of the disk. Which leaves a rounded side of sand paper allowing you to sand deep into tight corners.

rev

the rev wrote:

wmolaw wrote:Okay, hate to be so ignorant here, but what is the functional difference between a french sanding wheel and this:

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-25ecodZ ... HQu8C4730Q

or this:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PMAK ... TPG=INLMK3

Except a hell of a lot more money?

I have one that has a male end, cost about $8 and uses adhesive backed sanding pads which are cheap. The only thing I don't like is that you can't get high grit in the pads, like 400 or 800 in the 6" wheel size. I did buy a three inch one, however, and I can get up to 800 grit in that.

I just chuck it in a jacobs chuck in my lathe and go.

french wheel has the sand paper wrap around it and is affixed to the back of the disk. Which leaves a rounded side of sand paper allowing you to sand deep into tight corners.

rev

Thanks guys, that's what I thought. The pads generally overlap about an 1/8 of an inch or so, so there is some to get into corners.

So I got my wheel from Tim West the other day. I went to Ace and got a cheap sanding disc with 100 grit to do my rough shaping with. It took me about 20 minutes to get through shaping and another 20 or so (was afraid to get too agressive) to sand at 220 on the wheel. I gotta say, it was NNNIIIICCCCCCCCEEEEEE. Didn't get too far into the shank/bowl junction with the 100 grit, but the 220 made quick work of the area. I know I probably could have made one cheaper. But, I'll pay the extra for one that was made by someone who knows what they are doing...

scotties22 wrote:But, I'll pay the extra for one that was made by someone who knows what they are doing...

That's the way I feel; of course you'll never know what your doing until you make a few.

True. But, at least I have one to look at and figure out how to make one.

Here's a visual breakdown of their construction, if it helps:

http://talbertpipes.blogspot.com/2009/0 ... -pads.html

Click on the pics for the full-size versions.

Thanks for sharing Trever. I have been wanting to see that blog again.

MonsieurLabo wrote:Thanks for sharing Trever. I have been wanting to see that blog again.

No prob, I hope it helps. There are several similar posts about other workshop equipment bits scattered around that period, showing how I constructed different tools. I enjoyed making those visual guides, as a few pics are often better than pages of explanation.

I use Mr. Kurt Huhn's and I'm very pleased from them.