Chucking On A Budget

AldenW · Post by **AldenW** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 10:51 am

Hey guys, new guy here. I'm looking to start carving pipes, but I'm on a super tight budget (as in, really right. No oneway for me). I picked up an old shopsmith er-10 on craigslist, and I'll trying to figure out the best/cheapest way to chuck the wood.

The guys on the shopsmith forum recommend this guy: http://www.teknatool.com/products/Chuck ... _Chuck.htm
but with the 45mm spigot jaws it'll run me $160.
I saw this one for much much less, but it seems a little too good to be true what with all the included jaws: http://www.pennstateind.com/mm5/merchan ... jaw-chucks

One advantage to the Nova chuck is that I need a 5/8” smooth bore adapter (for either), and with the Nova that's internal, meaning the chuck doesn't hang as far out from the spindle. I don't know how significant that'll be.

Thanks for the help guys! I'm pretty excited here.

Post by **Tyler** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 11:33 am

The chuck is a really bad choice for going cheap. That Penn state chuck might be fine, but my first chuck was cheap and highly frustrating, and I'm really lucky it didn't kill me. Seriously, briar flying around at high speeds is not good.

Jos · Post by **Jos** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 11:36 am

Welcome !

If your budget is that tight (mine is, too) I'd consider this thingy:
viewtopic.php?f=43&t=3615

It sure looks scary, but I've made some 30 pipes on that chuck, with no serious incidents.

If you're skilled in metalworks, it'll cost you plain nothing, if you have a friend who is, it'll cost you a sixpack of beer (or whatever his favourite beverage is). If you have to pay some professional to make it for you, fifty bucks will probably do the trick.

Jens

AldenW · Post by **AldenW** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 1:23 pm

Of course I don't wanna buy anything dangerous/more trouble that it's worth; that's why I'm asking. To an untrained guy like me, the only real differences between those two options are the price and the color (the PSI does have good reviews online). What kinds of problems could arise with a cheap chuck? I'm pretty new to turning. Anyone have experience with either product?
Those extra ~$60 bucks could go to the briar I can't yet afford (I'll be learning on madrone, cherry, and walnut--yes, I've read the threads discussing alternate woods). And those extra jaws look handy for stem work.

That is definitely interesting Jos. It does look scary though. I'd have to find a professional as well (I'm new in town in real life too, no cool metalworking friends).
Also, I'll be working on a wood lathe, so my hands will be a lot closer to that chuck than on the metal lathe. I wouldn't wanna nick a finger on that beast (I'm a guitarist!). I think I'd feel safer with commercially sold chuck.

Thanks guys.

potholer · Post by **potholer** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 3:42 pm

try this this thread

viewtopic.php?f=43&t=5266

a nova chuck reverse bowl jaws and preferably steel angle etc, etc

but a nova or one way is a good way to go

regards
dave

TRS · Post by **TRS** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 3:57 pm

AldenW wrote:I saw this one for much much less, but it seems a little too good to be true what with all the included jaws: http://www.pennstateind.com/mm5/merchan ... jaw-chucks

I have the other one from Penn State, the Utility Grip. I think it's about $5 more than the Mini. Thus far, it has worked flawlessly. I did buy the alligator jaws for it.

AldenW · Post by **AldenW** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 6:27 pm

potholer wrote:try this this thread
viewtopic.php?f=43&t=5266
a nova chuck reverse bowl jaws and preferably steel angle etc, etc
but a nova or one way is a good way to go
regards
dave

Thanks Dave. Yeah, I think I'm a little too scared for my hands for those guys. I'm a professional musician; really need those guys with all 10 fingers.

BeatusLiebowitz wrote: I have the other one from Penn State, the Utility Grip. I think it's about $5 more than the Mini. Thus far, it has worked flawlessly. I did buy the alligator jaws for it.

SWEET! I was looking at the Utility Grip too (it looks like the Utility Grip's just a little bigger). I wish it came with a different selection of jaws. Maybe I can have them send that one with the alligator jaws switched in for a negotiated price...

I think I'll go with one of the PSI models then. I appreciate the input guys!

Joe Hinkle Pipes · Post by **Joe Hinkle Pipes** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 8:55 pm

I have half a set of alligator jaws in both sizes to fit the psi chucks if you cant work
something out through psi. It would be jaws 1 and 3, as I am using the 2 and 4 jaws. I bought the barracuda 2 T/N set. I now have 7 sets of jaws and only use the pin jaws and half a set of alligator. It's a pretty nice set though.

AldenW · Post by **AldenW** » Thu Jul 26, 2012 9:22 pm

fuchi_jeg wrote:I have half a set of alligator jaws in both sizes to fit the psi chucks if you cant work
something out through psi. It would be jaws 1 and 3, as I am using the 2 and 4 jaws. I bought the barracuda 2 T/N set. I now have 7 sets of jaws and only use the pin jaws and half a set of alligator. It's a pretty nice set though.

That is great to know fuchi; I'll PM you if I can't make a deal with PSI!

Mark Beattie · Post by **Mark Beattie** » Fri Jul 27, 2012 1:00 pm

Good Day,

I have a Oneway chuck in the 'Buy, Sell and Trade' area. I used it on my wood lathe for a few months before upgrading to a metal lathe and custom chuck. I will say though, this setup served me very well for the time I had it. The tower jaws have excellent bite. I can check on the adaptor if you're interested. Feel free to PM me for information or shoot a reply.

Mark

wdteipen · Post by **wdteipen** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 7:54 am

A while back I bought a Nova G2 for $99 at Woodcraft. It with the tower jaws works as well as any other although I mostly use it for stems and extensions and such because the jaws don't open as wide as my OneWay Talon.

AldenW · Post by **AldenW** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 2:04 pm

Mark Beattie wrote:Good Day,

I have a Oneway chuck in the 'Buy, Sell and Trade' area. I used it on my wood lathe for a few months before upgrading to a metal lathe and custom chuck. I will say though, this setup served me very well for the time I had it. The tower jaws have excellent bite. I can check on the adaptor if you're interested. Feel free to PM me for information or shoot a reply.

Mark

Thanks for the heads up Mark. I'm guessing my budget will be too tight for that, but once I hear back from PSI I'll shoot you a PM. I'm having to go through PSI's Vice President; apparently they don't normally split orders like this.

Appreciate the input wdteipen!

andrew · Post by **andrew** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 3:15 pm

I think I've probably got everyone beat in the cheap Chuck category. Mine is a modified independent 4 jaw from grizzly, not the metal working Chuck, the woodworking one. The best thing to do is get some jaws made like this:
I'll post a pic.

Make friends with a machinist and bribe him with a pipe and beer!

andrew · Post by **andrew** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 3:17 pm

The idea behind my jaws was pretty simple: large, strong, serrated and fitted for alignment pin.

AldenW · Post by **AldenW** » Sat Jul 28, 2012 3:27 pm

That pic's not appearing for me andrew!

AldenW · Post by **AldenW** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 11:16 am

Well, the PSI guy isn't being very helpful. Looks like they won't split orders. I figure I could spend $90 on the utility chuck, plus $20 for the headstock adapter, then however much on the jaws from fuchi, and $20 for a set of pin jaws, or I could just buy the Barracuda that comes with all the necessary jaws included (including the pin jaws) for $125 + a $20 adapter. That might just be the way to go. Then I'd also have a complete product if I ever want to resell it.

Quick stupid question. I'm looking at the 3-step lathe buffing system they sell: http://www.pennstateind.com/store/LBUFFSYS.html
It says it's a "16" long #2 MT heavy duty lathe mandrel". I have #2 MT on the tailstock, but how does that thing attach to the headstock? If it's a MT on both ends that's not gonna work for me.

I know PIMO sells the Jacobs chuck arbors and buffing wheels, but those wheels always looked like they were a little on the thin side.

Joe Hinkle Pipes · Post by **Joe Hinkle Pipes** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:03 pm

Usually your lathe will have a morse taper inside the headstock where the threads are. The morse taper of the buffing system goes inside the headstock, then use a live center on The tail stock end.

AldenW · Post by **AldenW** » Mon Jul 30, 2012 3:24 pm

fuchi_jeg wrote:Usually your lathe will have a morse taper inside the headstock where the threads are. The morse taper of the buffing system goes inside the headstock, then use a live center on The tail stock end.

Hmmm, that puts me out o' luck with the shopsmith I have. It's just got a 5/8" smooth-bore spindle. I do have a Jacobs chuck for it; I guess I'll just go with the pimo tools then? Do you think my concerns are warranted (are those buffing wheels a little thin)? Is there another brand of jacobs (drill) chuck buffing arbor I should look at that goes a bit bigger?

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 9:13 am

If you're looking for buffing setups, and have a jacobs chuck for your headstock, just use the arbors and wheels available here:
http://www.delviesplastics.com/mm5/merc ... ccessories

I prefer the 8" size, but you'll have to size it for the lathe you're going to use it on.

AldenW · Post by **AldenW** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 9:59 am

KurtHuhn wrote:If you're looking for buffing setups, and have a jacobs chuck for your headstock, just use the arbors and wheels available here:
http://www.delviesplastics.com/mm5/merc ... ccessories

I prefer the 8" size, but you'll have to size it for the lathe you're going to use it on.

Thanks Kurt! I swore I looked before, but now I'm searching and I'm seeing tons of these things.

8" should work fine; the motor can go at 3500, 1750, and 875 rpm (I'd leave it at 1750 for this, right?)

Between all the spiral sewn vs single sewn etc buffing wheels, does it matter all that much? There seems to be a variety of combinations out there. I basically need 2 cotton wheels and a super soft flannel one for carnauba, right? Do I want a stiffer one for the white diamond? And I need a permanent arbor for each?

Something like this work?

2x http://www.caswellplating.com/spiral-se ... eel-8.html
http://www.caswellplating.com/domet-fla ... x-1-2.html

pipemakersforum.com

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