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sometimes, when thinking about the shape of the pipes i can see that i could not apply carnauba on that type of the pipe... those shapes are simply not suitable to put carnauba with a wheel on them... so, on a few last pipes with a shape that could not get carnauba, i have used paraffin oil at the end... this is nice and looks good but i would like to get them shine afterall like carnauba is applied....
so, what are my options on such pipes... to use schellac?? can it be polished after it is applied??
when it is warm it becomes sticky - right???
...
i like to make "strange" looking pipes and i have to find the way to make them look nice and shinny...
how to do that without carnauba waxing... ????

thanks
and regards
daniel

If they're smooth pipes, you should be able to apply carnauba. For a non smooth finish, use shellac.

Rad

Shellac does get sticky if it gets hot, but it has to get very hot indeed, much hotter than you could hang on to. So my thoughts are that if a guy gets the bowl hot enough to get a shellac finish sticky, he's got the pipe so hot it's probably burning out anyhow. I include a warning label on shellaced pipes which says "If this pipe gets sticky, you are a moron."

.....
@Rad - yes the pipes i am talking about are smooth pipes but also the ones where i can't enter all the surfaces of the pipe with a wheel... i had this problem on two of my pipes so far... and there will be more as i tend to go for some strange shapes... that is why i am asking if there is a way to polish the pipe and then finish it with something that will not include carnauba waxing (as i can't get carnauba on all the surfaces because of the design of the pipe)....

@Sas - hmm... so, if i use shellac i should be fine... CAN I POLISH SHELLAC AFTER IT IS APPLIED to get the surface even more smooth???

tNd wrote:... CAN I POLISH SHELLAC AFTER IT IS APPLIED to get the surface even more smooth???

Hi Daniel,
yes, you can, but be careful. If you polish to hard or to long, this may remove the shellac! Shellac is sensitive, alcohol-dissolvable and very sensitive to acid (Skin chemistry).

One way to use shellac or other hard finishes is to apply them, and then sand them basically right off again - this fills up little pores or divots, and then if you re-apply a very thin layer of almost any finish (even carnauba) you get a really nice shine because the base substrate is very smooth already.

Shellac will dull out if you try to work with it too much - just apply it fast and even, and walk away, then do whatever you want to do later on.

Sasquatch wrote: Shellac will dull out if you try to work with it too much - just apply it fast and even, and walk away, then do whatever you want to do later on.

thank you - this is basically the same thing as working on pianos... thank you Sas... regards

You may be using the wrong wheel to apply wax. Most makers use a soft flannel wheel for waxing. It'll get into every area on any smooth pipe. I haven't seen one of yours so far that I couldn't wax with a flannel wheel.

Shellac is very difficult to get looking good on a smooth finished pipe, unless you're doing a spit coat (apply, immediately wipe off) and then waxing. If you put enough on the pipe to make it shiny, it won't be smooth looking any more and will look like crap.

Rad

Seconded.

If you're applying shellac to a smooth pipe, you have to do as Rad says. Either that or treat it like sanding sealer (which it is) and sand it off as Sas suggests.

the problem with a wheel for waxing is that i have one that has a big diameter so sometimes it can't wax all the areas on the pipe.. i had that problem for example on my last pipe P2611 bottom of the shank and connection between the shank and the bowl was a problem ... the dia for the wheel there would have to be arround 5cm and i don't have that kind of wheel...
the one i am using is the one from Pimo - it is 6'' in dia - sewn muslin.... i also have a flannel wheel from the same supplier but was using it to buff my mouthpieces... you are suggesting to try to apply carnauba with it ... will try for sure - thank you...


somebody told me to try Danish oil too... maybe i might try that...
....

Sewn muslin is not good for applying wax. Way too stiff. No wonder you're having trouble. In fact, none of my muslin wheels are sewn at all except for the middle.

Give the soft flannel a go. I think you'll like it. I use 8 inch buffs, so the diameter is not a problem. You just need a soft wheel that will get into everywhere.

Rad

You should also think about getting narrower wheels, I have settled on 1/2 and 1" wheels for most jobs.

David.

I agree, try a softer wheel.

If that is not practical, try Renaissance Wax.

It goes on as a paste (use only a very light coat) dries quick, and can be buffed by hand to a nice shine.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200323 ... e-Wax.aspx

Todd

RadDavis wrote:Sewn muslin is not good for applying wax. Way too stiff. No wonder you're having trouble. In fact, none of my muslin wheels are sewn at all except for the middle.

Give the soft flannel a go. I think you'll like it. I use 8 inch buffs, so the diameter is not a problem. You just need a soft wheel that will get into everywhere.

Rad

you are correct - all the pipes i made so far would be waxed far easier if i have used the ones that are not sewn... o.k.... thank you - will give a go to this option too...

DMI wrote:You should also think about getting narrower wheels, I have settled on 1/2 and 1" wheels for most jobs.

David.

those at Pimo were the cheapest ones available... you are also right - have to get some that are smaller too... i am still a new pipemaker... hehehehh, not to many tools

taharris wrote:I agree, try a softer wheel.

If that is not practical, try Renaissance Wax.

It goes on as a paste (use only a very light coat) dries quick, and can be buffed by hand to a nice shine.

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200323 ... e-Wax.aspx

Todd

Thanks Todd... will think about that too...