So in the past I posted a few pics of some cherry pipes I was working on. Now in my album (ScoJo), I placed some photos of my first attempt at a briar pipe. I know there are some symmetry issues. The pipe is still unfinished and I have some sanding to do on the stem. And if someone could tell me how to get the stupid pre-molded kit stem to stop WHISTLING I'd love it. Please let me know what you think.
Thanks,
Scott
My First Briar Pipe
That pipe looks great... I can help you with the whistle, take a small file or drill bit and stick it in the tennon end air hole, and bevel it out. The main cause of a whistling sound is sharp edges... does that make sense?
Hang in there with the pipe making, I just posted my 15th pipe here on the forum and my latest pipes are one heck of an improvement over the first few.
hope this helps
Aaron
Hang in there with the pipe making, I just posted my 15th pipe here on the forum and my latest pipes are one heck of an improvement over the first few.
hope this helps
Aaron
I just want to be the best that I can be.
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KurtHuhn
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Some pre-molded stems also have internal problem that contribute to whistling - sharp edges, burrs, protrusions, and restricted airflow. The most effective way to solve that is to completely redo the internals of that stem.
With your pre-molded stem in hand (assuming already fit to a stummel) drill out the tenon end with a tapered drill bit. I use 5/32" to make the stem airway the same as the stummel airway. Widening the airway will help with the restricted airflow, and tapering the airway will reduce the number of sharp edges.
Next, if the tenon does not bottom out in the mortis, you need to taper the mouth of the tenon as Aaron said, both to avoid whistling, as well as condensation control. I use a countersink bit in the rare occasion that I can't make the tenon bottom out in the mortis - it only takes a few twists and a few seconds.
The one part that is always overlooked on pre-molded stems is the button end. That ugly square hole (and the restriction behind it) does nothing but bad things for whistling and moisture. I use a 1/16" drill bit chucked in my rotary tool and I shape that hole into a flattened oval, at the same time I'm shaping the round airway into a cone with a cross-section like that of the hole at the button. When you're finished, the stem will have a smooth-drawing, free-flowing, open airway that will pass a "super absorbent" pipe cleaner with ease, and the stem shouldn't even hint at a whistle.
With your pre-molded stem in hand (assuming already fit to a stummel) drill out the tenon end with a tapered drill bit. I use 5/32" to make the stem airway the same as the stummel airway. Widening the airway will help with the restricted airflow, and tapering the airway will reduce the number of sharp edges.
Next, if the tenon does not bottom out in the mortis, you need to taper the mouth of the tenon as Aaron said, both to avoid whistling, as well as condensation control. I use a countersink bit in the rare occasion that I can't make the tenon bottom out in the mortis - it only takes a few twists and a few seconds.
The one part that is always overlooked on pre-molded stems is the button end. That ugly square hole (and the restriction behind it) does nothing but bad things for whistling and moisture. I use a 1/16" drill bit chucked in my rotary tool and I shape that hole into a flattened oval, at the same time I'm shaping the round airway into a cone with a cross-section like that of the hole at the button. When you're finished, the stem will have a smooth-drawing, free-flowing, open airway that will pass a "super absorbent" pipe cleaner with ease, and the stem shouldn't even hint at a whistle.