Hand Fatigue

[d_mc]

Hi, New to the boards (well, actually posting on them at least. . .been stealing advice from here for quite a while now!).
I have a problem and a question that I haven't quite seen addressed before, hoping for some advice:

Particularly during the finishing stages--sanding to progressively higher grits while working those little corners, or fine file work on a stem button--my hands will often tighten up and eventually hurt so much I have to take a long break. This must happen to others? I wrap my hand-sanding paper over a sanding sponge, and this helps to an extent. But does anyone have better advice on how to save your hands from fatigue while working?

I'm not an older guy, so I don't think this is arthritis or anything. Just a problem holding two very small objects firmly for a long period of time (sandpaper in one hand, pipe in the other).

It should be noted that I've never seen a pro pipe making setup, aside from images picked up on the web. Which focus mostly on mechanical tools. For whatever reason, it's been hard for me to get info on the hand tools people use. I'm an amateur and an enthusiast, and would just like to spend more time refining and less time waiting out hand cramps!

Thanks in advance.

[SchmidtN]

For really small sanding, an old electric toothbrush can be turned into a mechanical sander and that'll help save your hand. I also don't hold onto the pipe very often, I have a square stick that I rasped the end round and wrap with paper towel until the stummel fits snug on it.

Toothbrush sander directions:
http://www.modelbuildersonline.com/Tuto ... 6590_pHNUy

My stick:


Just plop the stummel on the stick, position the stick in the vise so I can see what I'm working on and sand away.

[Nate]

For really small sanding, an old electric toothbrush can be turned into a mechanical sander and that'll help save your hand. I also don't hold onto the pipe very often, I have a square stick that I rasped the end round and wrap with paper towel until the stummel fits snug on it.

Toothbrush sander directions:
http://www.modelbuildersonline.com/Tuto ... 6590_pHNUy

My stick:


Just plop the stummel on the stick, position the stick in the vise so I can see what I'm working on and sand away.

For what part of the pipe is the fork used?

[SimeonTurner]

For what part of the pipe is the fork used?

Rusticating. Duh.

[KurtHuhn]

One of the greatest accomplishments you can make as a pipemaker is to figure out how to make a pipe without suffering personal injury.

When you figure that out, please let the rest of us know.

Seriously though - hand pain is indicative of poor ergonomics with your tools or process. I suffer no hand pain, which I attribute to power sanding almost everything. I do have a problem with herniated discs in my neck that cause numbness in my arms and hands, but that should not be a problem unless you made the same dumbass mistakes I made as a young man. And if you did, come on over and share a scotch and a cookie, because I'm sure we have stories to swap.....

[JHowell]

I do a lot of hand sanding -- more than most, from what I can tell. My advice is,

1. get bigger things to hang on to. Make a dowel handle that fits into the pipe bowl so that you can hang onto the handle rather than gripping with your fingertips. Wrap your sandpaper around a longer stick so you can spread out your grip a bit.

2. don't sand any more than you have to. I think it is an essential skill to cut as close to the finished shape as possible with as coarse a tool as possible, leaving JUST enough material to clean up with finishing. If you're still refining the shape at 400 grit you're wasting time and sandpaper.

3. build up to it. You're probably holding on tighter than necessary, but if your hands are telling you to take a break, take a break. You'll probably get stronger and more relaxed with time. Might not hurt to take a glucosamine sulfate supplement, and eat a banana or two for the potassium. Can't hoit, as the old joke goes.

[Sasquatch]

Yes - Jack's 3rd point here is right on - you need to be stronger but at the same time more relaxed. Relaxed precision, and that comes with practice.

[SchmidtN]

For what part of the pipe is the fork used?

Rusticating. Duh.

I ate dinner at the work bench while working on my first (and only so far) pipe, so I had a cup of ramen while I worked. It was a rusticated pipe (you can go look at it in the gallery and tell me how you like it ) so I shellaced it and used the handle end of the fork to pry open the can... does that count?

[Nate]

For what part of the pipe is the fork used?

Rusticating. Duh.

That's what I'm doing wrong!! Ok, not the only thing but....

[wdteipen]

Jack's advice is good, especially #2. A sanding disc mounted on a motor will be your best friend.

[JeremyV]

If it's so bad that you're having to stop for prolonged periods of time, it may be just your general health. You don't have to be old to get arthritis, you just have to be missing the nutrients that allow it to set in. You may consider taking calcium, potassium (not more than 100mg/day) and B vitamins. I'm 38 years old and can still go 20 miles with a rifle and a ruck, but when I start slipping in the nutrients department, I notice a helluva difference - especially in joint pain.

[potholer]

SchmidtN

don't forget to change heads on your toothbrush i imagine that the sanding disc would smart a bit

regards
dave

[SchmidtN]

potholer: Haha, I use a manual toothbrush, the electric kind tickle too much.

[d_mc]

Seriously though - hand pain is indicative of poor ergonomics with your tools or process. I suffer no hand pain, which I attribute to power sanding almost everything.

Thanks to everyone for the advice. Definitely going to have to build some sort of bowl & stem holder to keep from doing all hand-sanding by holding the pipe in my left hand. And look into crafting a more ergonomic sandpaper holder.

Kurt's quote was particularly interesting. . .mostly because while I'd prefer to power sand more, I find when you get into the stain/sand finishing phases (400 grit +), power sanding takes either takes off too much material (removing most of the stain from the grain lines) or makes the pipe too smooth, so it won't absorb subsequent stains as well. Maybe I just need work with less variance in my grits? Usually I shape using a 5" wheel attached to a motor at 60 grit, then 120, then 240, 320, stain black, 400 (by hand), stain black, 600 (by hand), colored stain & start polishing.

I have some 240 and 500 grit Abralon that just arrived in the mail. Think I'll try only power sanding my next pipe and see what happens.

Thanks again for all the responses!