pipemakersforum.com

What about MORA WOOD for a Pipe??

Google it and see what all you can find out about it, I have no knowledge of this wood other than the fact that it is used to make a yellow dye, is hard to find and that's all I found.
Maybe some more seasoned wood workers could tell you more about it, but I would THINK (and I have been habitually wrong lately) that whatever is in the wood that produces dye may not be safe to smoke from, or in the least could mar a finish.
But for the price they're asking, you could get some good briar

The last bright yellow wood I had anything to do with was some kind of pricker bush that ate my left hand while I was cutting them down with the chainsaw. They really irritated my skin, particularly where I was scratched by the thorns. I think I had an allergic reaction to the juices in that wood. The wood on the cut end was very bright yellow, like yellow model paint.

In nature, things that are brightly colored are typically poison. For this reason, I shy away from those things.

KurtHuhn wrote: In nature, things that are brightly colored are typically poison. For this reason, I shy away from those things.

So the tie-dyed hippie living next door may be poisonous? Eh, it would explain the smell

Dixie_piper wrote:

KurtHuhn wrote: In nature, things that are brightly colored are typically poison. For this reason, I shy away from those things.

So the tie-dyed hippie living next door may be poisonous? Eh, it would explain the smell

Yep! Don't eat him. He'd probably kill ya.

MadTinker wrote:What about MORA WOOD for a Pipe??

May I ask, WHY?

I got a block for $10 Bucks, It measures 3 x 3 x 12. It appears to be Black almost in Color. I guess I will return it, I know all about Briar but just looking for some different woods to mess with cause they dont sell briar at Woodcraft plus I am still learning. Thanx Guys

If you're looking for practice wood at Woodcraft, find some Maple turning blanks. Much better than wood that makes your palms itch.....

I actually got around 12 pounds of seasoned Cherry and Apple coming next week. I guess that should be plenty of Practice. The peices are 2 x 3 x 6. I have made a couple with Mesquite and Walnut. I really like the way the Mesquite ones smoke. I also saw some Blocks of Coolibah Burl at woodcraft today. They were around the same price as Briar and had those Cool Tight circle Grains. I looked it up, don't know for smoking??

http://www.burgesswoodworks.com/wood/Co ... theca.html

I don't know much about coolibah. I can tell you that a lot of burls that I see at retailers are improperly seasoned for use on pipes.

Wood is naturally full of resins, tannins, and other nasty stuff. So when briar is harvested it goes through a process of boiling to draw out the nasties, and long slow drying to reduce cracking and stresses in the wood. Other woods that you can get are not sent through that process.

Woods like apple, maple, cherry, pear, ash, mesquite and others are suitable for making a pipe from because they're naturally much, much lower in these nasties than other woods, and do not necessarily require the same treatment as briar.

Burls that are harvested for turnery work can be incredibly gorgeous, and cut in the same fashion as a briar burl, will resemble briar almost to the point of being indistinguishable. HOWEVER, the same thing applies here - they're typically full of junk that should be boiled out. By and large, however, they burls are not, and are slowly dried in an effort to reduce cracking, twisting, and the creation of internal fissures. Good for bowls, vases, and platters - but not so much for pipes (typically).

One thing to watch out for, if you're going to buy other woods, is whether the seller advertises it as "stabilized". That word means that any number of toxic things has been impregnated into the wood in an effort to keep it from cracking and twisting. This is great for knife handles, doorknobs, and decorative turnery, but not for pipes. The resins that are injected under pressure and vacuum are toxic if heated, even though they're safe at normal temps. That means that smoking a pipe made of stabilized wood will outgas some pretty nasty chemicals, and at a minimum the smoke will taste like cat pee. You could also make yourself very, very sick.

Hey Thanx I am going to stick with the above mentioned apple, maple, cherry, pear, ash, mesquite untill I think I am good enough for Briar. Thanx for the Info. I am always thinking OUTSIDE the box and trying to save a buck..... What about Walnut??

KurtHuhn wrote:This is great for knife handles, doorknobs, and decorative turnery, but not for pipes.

Edited for effect, danger-close.

BeatusLiebowitz wrote:Edited for effect, danger-close.

D'OH!!

Fixed. Thank you.

Kurt, I just wanted it to be abundantly clear to you that I meticulously inspect every post you produce, waiting for the tiniest slip-up or sign of weakness.

Cheers,
Tim

MadTinker wrote:Hey Thanx I am going to stick with the above mentioned apple, maple, cherry, pear, ash, mesquite untill I think I am good enough for Briar. Thanx for the Info. I am always thinking OUTSIDE the box and trying to save a buck..... What about Walnut??

Walnut is used sometimes in pipe making. It does have some certain toxin (for want of a better term) that some argue makes it unsafe, but I don't believe it's bad enough that you shouldn't use it for pipes.
I believe it was Steffen who said he just makes his Walnut pipe an "occassional smoker" just to be on the safe side.
Walnut itself is a bastard if you don't get the right species, most if not all prefer Black Walnut and I wold suspect Iron walnut may be dense enough. Look "Walnut tree" up on wikipedia, very wide range of varied species. Also search the forum here for "black walnut," that'll give ya some more info.

The trouble with all these other woods, or a huge percentage of them, is that they burn at a much lower temperature than briar, even if they taste okay and aren't toxic. A walnut pipe will work okay, and then you'll see the tar wicking through the grain, and then you'll see a hole.

I think it's a waste of time to hunt through all these weird-ass woods, but you guys fill your boots if it pleases you.

BeatusLiebowitz wrote:Kurt, I just wanted it to be abundantly clear to you that I meticulously inspect every post you produce, waiting for the tiniest slip-up or sign of weakness.

Somebody needs to. You never know what kind of half-assed or just plain stupid advice I'm going to give next.

At least if we want stupid, half-ass advice, we know who to turn to.


"Solidarity Reg!"
"Um, yes... solidarity, brothers."

"Brothers! Brothers! We should be struggling together!"

KurtHuhn wrote:"Brothers! Brothers! We should be struggling together!"

Okay, let's come together.
Briar is good. Other crap is just that, CRAP.
Wood lathes are good for pepper mills. Metal lathes are good for pipes.
Ebonite stinks.
Use briar.
Corn cob pipes should not be mentioned on a forum dedicated to pipemakers.
Use briar.
Tyler gives wonderful advice, listen.
Metal lathes.
I hate being moderated by someone that doesn't know pipes or humor.
Use briar.
I like Sas. Why? Hell if I know!
Metal lathes.
Simeon is going to be a fine pipe maker and understands pipe making.
Use briar.
Ernie is also going to be a good pipe maker, but is such a douche.
Metal lathes.
Your early pipes are going to suck. If you want feedback, don't be a sissy.
Use briar.
LEARN TO MAKE THE CLASSICS! Try to make a proper billiard, it ain't easy.
USE BRIAR.
Remember, any job is easy, as long as you have the right tools. Save and buy good equipment.
Search the forum. Quit asking dumb ass questions that have been answered in detail. I would suggest going back and reading the advice of Todd Johnson and Tyler, from the beginning. Duh!
And, one last thing, use briar.