Scotch brite on contrast staining?
Posted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 7:14 pm
I've been toying with a "junk pipe" for practice with finishing. I know there are extremely varied opinions on how to get the best finish, just a curiosity here;
I tried staining black @ 200,320 then topcoat @ 420 (waiting for finer grit paper, should be here this week) With using the black stain I've tried adding heat and many other methods to make it "set," none with great results. As soon as it started showing definition of grain, the darker grain would have "nics" where the black was gone. I know higher grit sanding may prevent this.
But on my last trial run, I simply used a scotch brite pad and was rather pleased with the control given the minimal penetration of my current stain.
I topcoated it earlier, gonna sand and buff tomorrow hopefully. Question being;
1) if there is a reason to fault the scotch brite method, what is it?
2) is it likely that the surface scratches will buff out, or should I wait for a once over with higher grit?
Thanks in advance fellars'!
I tried staining black @ 200,320 then topcoat @ 420 (waiting for finer grit paper, should be here this week) With using the black stain I've tried adding heat and many other methods to make it "set," none with great results. As soon as it started showing definition of grain, the darker grain would have "nics" where the black was gone. I know higher grit sanding may prevent this.
But on my last trial run, I simply used a scotch brite pad and was rather pleased with the control given the minimal penetration of my current stain.
I topcoated it earlier, gonna sand and buff tomorrow hopefully. Question being;
1) if there is a reason to fault the scotch brite method, what is it?
2) is it likely that the surface scratches will buff out, or should I wait for a once over with higher grit?
Thanks in advance fellars'!