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If anyone can help; is this the proper type of stuff for sealing a green wood turning? For something like a small tamper or ornament? Thanks!

http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2000767 ... nformation

Danish oil is a finish, not a stabilizer. What you want is something like this:
http://www.woodcraft.com/Family/2020588 ... ealer.aspx

Green wood is easy to turn, cuts well, and doesn't dull tools as fast as dry wood, which is why turners like to use it. The problem is that it will crack and split as it dries unless you take care to seal the end grain so that it doesn't dry too fast. You can use Anchor Seal, some other wax emulsion, or even plain white glue. Seal the end grain, and the wood is forced to dry more slowly - and much more stable.

Turn the green wood to rough size of the finished piece, seal the ends and put it on a shelf until it's dry, and then turn it to final diameter taking out any warping that may have happened while it was drying. Sand, finish, use.

In a nutshell anyway. You can also simply put the piece in a paper bag or a plastic bag with a hole poked in it, especially if it's a smaller piece.

Thank you again Kurt!

Edit: The reason I had asked about the finish is that as I was googling how to finish green wood I had come across a turner's site wherein he'd described both the method you did and also he claimed you could turn a piece and use multiple coats of penetrating oil to seal/finish it.....

That's interesting. I've never heard of that - which isn't saying much. Seems to me that it might be effective on smaller pieces, if the danish oil slows the evaporation of water somehow, or if it cures and keeps the moisture in place. Dunno.

KurtHuhn wrote:That's interesting. I've never heard of that - which isn't saying much. Seems to me that it might be effective on smaller pieces, if the danish oil slows the evaporation of water somehow, or if it cures and keeps the moisture in place. Dunno.

Did you just say oil and cure in the same sentence!?!?!

HEY EVERYONE! Kurt just discovered a way to oil cure his pipes!

Oh God!! I can't believe I let that secret loose!!

Thread deletion in 3.. 2.. 1...

I have some exotic woods which came with the ends waxed or coated. I assume this means the wood was green and coated to retard drying too fast. The question then becomes at what point do you know the wood is dry enough to use? bob

Another material is called Pentacryl (also good for green wood)
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200179 ... lizer.aspx

staffwalker wrote:I have some exotic woods which came with the ends waxed or coated. I assume this means the wood was green and coated to retard drying too fast. The question then becomes at what point do you know the wood is dry enough to use? bob

The way I do it, which by no means is the way everyone should, is to periodically weigh the rough turned piece with a postal scale that measures grams. When it stops losing weight, it's ready to finish.

kkendall wrote:Another material is called Pentacryl (also good for green wood)
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200179 ... lizer.aspx

I've heard mixed reviews of that stuff. It seems to work as advertised, but also seems to affect the ability to finish the end result to a high luster. Some say it also drastically changes the color of the wood as well. However, I've never used it - so take that for what it is, hearsay.

I think that is the same stuff I used back in the 70s to treat exposed wood for a cabin I was building, if so, it turns pine a rather pale shade of green and smells rather harsh for a long time. Don't think I would want it anywhere near a pipe. It does stop rot, however. bob

I've heard of guys turning bowls green and then putting them into a vat of danish oil/stain for like 5 months. The results are absolutely unbelievable for color, and then the bowl curls up a little as it cures, resulting in a really freaky piece of art.