Shank/stem junction woes

[TRS]

If I place my stem and shank together without the delrin tenon inserted, the junction looks great. When I insert the tenon and try the fit, there is a gap. Is this because my drill hole(s) are skewed? I can't remember how I did it, but I'm pretty sure I moved both the block and the stem between facing/drilling procedures. Argh. Argh indeed.

[RadDavis]

This is when a pin gauge set comes in very handy. You can mount the mortise on the appropriate pin, chuck it in your lathe and re-face the shank end so that it's a perfect 90 degree face to the mortise.

Never move your block between drilling the mortise and facing the shank end.

Rad

[Leus]

I've heard about pin gauges a lot, and I've seen them. But I cannot understand how to use them. Can anybody provide a picture on how are they used? Pretty please with a cherry on top?

[kbadkar]

A pin gauge is nothing more than a "tight fitting drill bit shank" in increments... 0.1mm or 0.005" is more than close enough for pipe work. The lowest tolerance pin gauges (class ZZ) suffice, just get an array around the size you drill.

[akr]

I've heard about pin gauges a lot, and I've seen them. But I cannot understand how to use them. Can anybody provide a picture on how are they used? Pretty please with a cherry on top?

Leus,

I hope Scott doesn't mind me posting a link to his website, but he has pictures of pin gauges in use at http://www.sethilepipes.com/index.php?o ... &Itemid=68. They are the 4th and 5th pictures up from the bottom.

akr

[Frank]

I've heard about pin gauges a lot, and I've seen them. But I cannot understand how to use them. Can anybody provide a picture on how are they used? Pretty please with a cherry on top?

That's all they are - little lengths of hardened steel round stock in various diameters with close tolerance. Use them as illustrated on Scott's website.

[TRS]

This is when a pin gauge set comes in very handy. You can mount the mortise on the appropriate pin, chuck it in your lathe and re-face the shank end so that it's a perfect 90 degree face to the mortise.

And for this I would need my compound tool arm, yes? First I'll need to buy cutting tools for it and learn how to use it!

Never move your block between drilling the mortise and facing the shank end.

Rad

Yet another lesson learned!

Thanks Rad!

[Leus]

That's a great link, I have saved it to my bookmarks. Thank you very much!

[TRS]

This is when a pin gauge set comes in very handy. You can mount the mortise on the appropriate pin, chuck it in your lathe and re-face the shank end so that it's a perfect 90 degree face to the mortise.

Today I bought a cheap (Harbor Freight) set of cutters for the tool arm so I can 'practice' and continue my lathe edjumacation. I chucked a scrap piece of vulcanite rod and cut into it and played around with the 'straight' cutter. In theory(when I have better cutting tools), would I cut into the shank with the straight cutter until it meets the pin(!) and then scroll it to the right a hair to reface it? Jeez I hope that makes sense..... thanks yet again!

[Nick]

I wouldn't actually let you cutter hit the pin. That'd mess up the measurement.

[FredS]

Chamfer (countersink) the hole before you insert the gage pin (or whatever you're using as a mandrel) so you don't have to cut all the way to the mandrel when you're facing the shank. For the same reason, you'll also want to use a sharp-cornered tool - not one with a radius - when facing the shank.

[TRS]

Chamfer (countersink) the hole before you insert the gage pin (or whatever you're using as a mandrel) so you don't have to cut all the way to the mandrel when you're facing the shank. For the same reason, you'll also want to use a sharp-cornered tool - not one with a radius - when facing the shank.

Ah, brilliant, thank you! Thanks again to everyone for bearing with me and filling my cup over and over! Appreciated! Vastly so!