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FredS · Post by **FredS** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 9:11 pm

Here's my second princely effort. I really like the simple lines of this shape. I tried to incorporate the suggestions made about from my first prince into this new one, but further comments and critique are encouraged.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 10:16 pm

I'm not wild about the red ring, but the rest of it looks pretty good. From my perspective, you seem to have the stem bend correct.

Just an aside, do I detect a few sanding scratches in the 3rd picture or is it grain flow?

bscofield · Post by **bscofield** » Wed Mar 25, 2009 10:47 pm

hi fred. here is what i see:

I think the stem is too long, maybe by about 4 or 5 button lengths.

I'm not one to think that the front and back of the bowls must always have the exact same shape/angle, but in this case i think it would be better if they matched a tad bit more. the front is very round (and looks good) and then the back comes down all angle with no curve.

the bottom of the shank swoops up nicely with just a touch of a curve. but the top of the shank just sort of jets out flat and 'pinches' the end of the shank. i think it would give it just the right look if the top matched the slight curve of the bottom...

my $0.02

ckr · Post by **ckr** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:49 am

I think it is a very princely effort and I did check out #8 and the comments there as well. There is no doubt in my mind that this a prince but some of the aspects of a prince (to me) are that the "hips" ( the widest part of the bowl) rides a bit lower, the bottom is flatter with a less round curve tapering from the hip to the rim. Height, length, proportion, bend and tapering of the stem all seem princely to me and it is not that I have not seen "ball" shaped bowls on what is viewed as a prince. So this is as much a comment on my perspective as it is to features I see in your pipe. It is a fine pipe.

ToddJohnson · Post by **ToddJohnson** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 8:32 am

Lots of deep scratches still in the finish. Try wetting the pipe between sanding stages to raise the grain and get the peskier scratches to "pop up." Then you just knock them down with the next grit.

Todd

pipeyeti · Post by **pipeyeti** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 9:50 am

Todd's advise on wetting the pipe between grits works very well. He had posted this same tip in another thread and I started to use it and it has made a tremendous difference. It has helped me get those pesky scratches out. I just wish it would work on acrylic tampers. The other thing that will help with the scratches as far as seeing them is staining between grits besides bringing out the grain, the stain will stay in the scratches until you sand them out. Auto body guys use a similar process to smooth body filler by spraying a color on between sanding, if there are scratches the paint stays in them.

ToddJohnson · Post by **ToddJohnson** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 10:58 am

pipeyeti wrote:Todd's advise on wetting the pipe between grits works very well. He had posted this same tip in another thread and I started to use it and it has made a tremendous difference. It has helped me get those pesky scratches out. I just wish it would work on acrylic tampers. The other thing that will help with the scratches as far as seeing them is staining between grits besides bringing out the grain, the stain will stay in the scratches until you sand them out. Auto body guys use a similar process to smooth body filler by spraying a color on between sanding, if there are scratches the paint stays in them.

I actually meld the two processes together and spray a guide coat of automotive primer over any portions of the pipe that have been Bondo'd so that the scratches and low spots will show up.

Todd

pipeyeti · Post by **pipeyeti** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 11:10 am

Carefull with the bondo anymore than a few millimeters thickness can crack later on.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 12:47 pm

ToddJohnson wrote:I actually meld the two processes together and spray a guide coat of automotive primer over any portions of the pipe that have been Bondo'd so that the scratches and low spots will show up.

So THAT's what one should use to fill flaws.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 2:37 pm

ckr wrote:There is no doubt in my mind that this a prince but some of the aspects of a prince (to me) are that the "hips" ( the widest part of the bowl) rides a bit lower, the bottom is flatter with a less round curve tapering from the hip to the rim.

Sort of a flattened Brandy?

ckr · Post by **ckr** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 5:48 pm

Sort of a flattened Brandy?

That is a good way to express what I am describing. A couple of weeks ago before I got caught up in the "Make a Billiard" lesson I was considering doing a prince. It's been a while, so I was surfing several. Fred's seems of the Dunhill style balled front and straighter back wall.

Similar is the Sav 313, I feel it has a bit lower waistline. the upper curve is broader while the bottom curve tighter. This flattens the base and (searching for the right term) gives it a bottom heavy effect. It is that effect that makes me feel "prince"

Sort of like a flattened brandy.

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FredS · Post by **FredS** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:25 pm

ToddJohnson wrote:I actually meld the two processes together and spray a guide coat of automotive primer over any portions of the pipe that have been Bondo'd so that the scratches and low spots will show up.

Todd

Todd - Thanks for lifting the veil of secrecy. I hope it’s OK if I post this spy photo of your shop.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:43 pm

FredS wrote:Todd - Thanks for lifting the veil of secrecy. I hope it’s OK if I post this spy photo of your shop.

You silly bugger! That's a photo of my worshop! No it's not OK. Remove it chop chop!

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