Stem replacement

Tano · Post by **Tano** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 5:55 pm

Hi guys I'm replacing the stem on one of my favourites. How should I file it down without damaging the shank?
Thanks in advance.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 6:38 pm

When doing something like that, I use very thin scotch tape. A trick posted here by George Dibos. Put the tape on the shank, and just keep an eye on stuff while you go. You still have to take great care, but the tape will protect you from the inevitable oops moment.

kbadkar · Post by **kbadkar** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 6:42 pm

I would outline the shank on the replacement stem shoulder and do most of the roughing in without the stem attached. Then when you get close, reattach the stem and wrap a layer of masking tape on the shank. When you accidentally tear at the masking tape with the file, replace the tape. Learn to get careful. When you're at the level of the tape, remove the tape, and be really gentle until you're spot on or just about spot on and finish with buffing compound.

That's how I do it, but perhaps there are better solutions.

Edit: Looks like Kurt beat me to an answer.

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 8:01 pm

I use a single layer of black electrical tape. I tried Scotch tape, but it doesn't want to conform like electrical tape does, and it gets wrinkly.

You can be pretty aggressive until the sander starts nicking the tape. When I get flush with the tape at 320, take it off and finish it flush with 600.

Then re-stain wherever you sanded the wood.

Rad

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 2:25 am

Tano, if the pipe is worth the trouble, you could use this "no scuff" method: No Scuff Involves a fair amount of work, though.

wdteipen · Post by **wdteipen** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 3:33 am

I carefully sand/shape the replacement stem while attached to the stummel on a 1" belt sander until I get about 1/16". I then mask it with tape and finish with fingernail files of the various grits up to 320. Then I carefully finish with 400 then 600 grit sandpaper. After that I buff and polish.

Anyone have an idea of the molding materials Walker Briar Works uses? I can see how the extra effort would be useful on high end pipes.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 9:47 am

You can get the molding compound at any good craft supply place. I suspect that this is silicone mold making rubber, used to make a mold of the shank, which is then used to cast the duplicate in polyester resin or alumilite. Same process as is used to make resin copies of sculptures and such.

Great idea. That's downright impressive. Time consuming, but certainly worth it if you can't touch the shank under any circumstances.