Drilling after shaping

ASB · Post by **ASB** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 11:31 am

This question is mainly for Todd, but all answers are welcome.

What are the little bits of wood for that are glued on?

How do you hold the briar for drilling? (I'm assuming that the bit is spinning and the briar is in your hand as that stummel would be damn near impossible to chuck)

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:09 pm

If you look at where those bits are, they're at the intersection of the lines of drilling. They're there to provide a place to stick the tailstock for support - so you don't dimple the actual stummel with it.

Holding the briar is probably different from maker to maker that employs this method. When I do this (which isn't often) I do it like this:
- mount drill bit in headstock chuck
- hold briar in left hand
- put tip of drill bit at intersection to be drilled
- put tailstock at opposite intersection
- lock down tailstock
- start lathe
- advance stummel by using the tailstock handwheel

There are nuances, but that's it in a nutshell.

I have also seen makers standing in front of the bit to drill, and I have done this once or twice, but I prefer the method above - less chance for painful injury.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:32 pm

I do almost everything Kurt has said but with a few differences, I dont use the tail stock crank to advance the pipe foward. I don't lock the tail stock down, I hold the pipe with my left hand and push the tail stock foward with my right hand.

He is right though about different processes, I do it slightly different than the guy who taught me. I'm sure he does it differently than who taught him. You will develop a way that fits you.

Do you have spoon bits for the chamber?

This "can" be dangerous, there is a chance you will hurt yourself when drilling in this way, wear a heavy glove.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 12:56 pm

The first time you do this, the likelihood of injury is pretty high. However, as you get used to it and develop your own skill and comfort, that likelihood goes down. I've also always found that resolving yourself to the pain is a pretty good way for injury to NOT happen. Show the machine confidence, and you'll be better prepared to deal with the unexpected - like when you're training dogs.

ASB · Post by **ASB** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:05 pm

It's making a bit more sense now. I could tell the little bits were at the ends of the alignment lines, just wasn't sure if there was any more to chuck with other than the hands. The whole reason I'm asking is because I used my pipemakers chuck (not sure of correct technical name, the one that is like this

for initial drillling on a work in progress, but after removing from chuck realized that the tobacco chamber was about 1/8 inch too shallow. I didn't want to screw the pipe up by tring to rechuck then it being off center and having an ovalesque tobacco chamber at the top or bottom, but now can't get past the fact that the drilling is ever so slightly off. Since it's off anyhow I figured I'd give the Danish drilling style a try. I've got shaping done and am about to what I'd consider done. I'm going to give this a try this evening, with practice on a junk estate first of course.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:11 pm

You can try putting the drill bit in the tail stock, then putting the pipe on the drill bit. Then advance the tailstock with the pipe, into the jaws of the chuck.

This has worked for me in the past but make sure that you have the pipe all the way on the bit (bit in the chamber).

pipeyeti · Post by **pipeyeti** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:14 pm

ASB wrote:It's making a bit more sense now. I could tell the little bits were at the ends of the alignment lines, just wasn't sure if there was any more to chuck with other than the hands. The whole reason I'm asking is because I used my pipemakers chuck (not sure of correct technical name, the one that is like this for initial drillling on a work in progress, but after removing from chuck realized that the tobacco chamber was about 1/8 inch too shallow. I didn't want to screw the pipe up by tring to rechuck then it being off center and having an ovalesque tobacco chamber at the top or bottom, but now can't get past the fact that the drilling is ever so slightly off. Since it's off anyhow I figured I'd give the Danish drilling style a try. I've got shaping done and am about to what I'd consider done. I'm going to give this a try this evening, with practice on a junk estate first of course.

If you only need to drill an 1/8 inch deeper the easy thing to do is put the same bit you used into a hand held drill. Hold the stummel in your hand put the bit into the bowl and if you play with it a little you will be able to feel it line up properly then just drill it . I have done it many times, as long as you kind of feel around and find the center of your first drilling its an easy thing to do.

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 1:50 pm

You can also put the bit in the chuck, press the bowl onto it and turn the chuck by hand while pushing on the stummel.

Rad

Tano · Post by **Tano** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 2:56 pm

Hi guys,
So which bits are safest to drill with, spade, spoon or shaped drill and at what speed? What do you use to pre drill a starter hole if necessary? Thanks.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 3:05 pm

IMO.. spoon bits are the safest, My lathe runs at about 250 rpm.

Yes I use 3 pilots. I use a 3/16 pilot, 3/8, 9/16, and then my final drill 3/4.

ASB · Post by **ASB** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 11:11 am

OK, first tried turning by hand (as Rad suggested). This worked but was going very slowly. I held tight with my left had onto the pipe and turned the lathe on but had the clutch out (lowest RPM possible). I used my right hand to slowly lower the clutch and engage the lathe for brief intervals, got a bit more comfortable with it, then was able to control it quite well. Got the drilling right to where I wanted it. Thanks for the pointers!