Bleeding stain

[Tano]

Happy New Year you all.
I have come to the realization that pipe making is like walking through a mine field. You never know where along the process it's going to blow up.
Case in point, turned stumel on lathe, added boxwood insert, turned stem, sanded ready for staining, taped the boxwood insert with electrical tape, added stain, waited for it to dry, removed tape and BAM! The stain bled onto the insert.
How do you guys prevent the stain from doing this?
Thanks in advance.

[geigerpipes]

In some cases when the ring is not flush with the shank like a wedding type ring I glue it on after staining.

For flush fit rings adding some lacquer on the boxwood without getting any on the briar will stop stain from bleeding into the insert and can be sanded of afterwards.

A thin liner of ebonite before the ring will also help not to get stain on the insert

Happy new

[staffwalker]

I use masking tape to mask shank along the line between insert and shank. I apply a coat of Vaseline on the insert (or whatever I am trying to protect from bleed over) I make sure I don't miss anything on the line by applying the Vaseline on the insert and also on the masking tape. I then remove tape from shank and stain. The Vaseline on the insert prevents bleed over. When everything dries use clean cloth or paper towel to remove Vaseline. I've used this method several times and it has worked for me. If the insert is light colored wood the Vaseline will darken it somewhat but that's a small price to keep the stain off.

I've experimented with several other substances such as olive oil but nothing seems to work like the Vaseline.

bob gilbert

[ToddJohnson]

You need to adhere the boxwood after the pipe has been stained but before it's been buffed and polished. 5-minute epoxy will give you about a three minute window where you can simply peel the ring of squeeze-out off the shank. Make a pencil mark across the joint to be certain you have the ferrule aligned properly with the shank. The other way of doing this is with a thin ebonite ring as a buffer between the two. Good luck.

Todd

[KurtHuhn]

I'm guessing the next question is:
"How do I make sure the ferrule is exactly the right size if I don't put it on until after the pipe is shaped?"

You can solve this problem by shaping the pipe with the ferrule on it like you have been doing, but instead of gluing it on, just hold it there with a press fit from either the stem or a scrap of ebonite with a tenon. Once the pipe is shaped and sanded, remove the ebonite jig and the ferrule will fall right off.