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I have a new Jobey Sunburst pipe that has a screw tenon system that IMHO will be screwed in wink. Anyways, I just don't like it... Do you know of any better solution to replace than to widen the mortise (the material would be too thin...) and cut a new tenon? I'm not sure if tenon cut to the same diameter than the actual inside diameter will hold...
Any suggestions?

Got a picture? I've heard of the Jobey tenons, but have never actually seen one in person. I don't want to suggest something that obviously won't work....

KurtHuhn wrote:Got a picture? I've heard of the Jobey tenons, but have never actually seen one in person. I don't want to suggest something that obviously won't work....

You are prefectly right. I will take some pictures this weekend... I don't have any time sooner than that

EDIT:
OK, so here they go:

and in detail:

....so are there any suggestions, please?

measure the inside diameter of the mortise, then test-fit an appropriately sized piece of delrin to it. If it fits, you're golden.

Those look like Acme threads. If so, they're actually going to be very, very strong. Personally, I wouldn't mess with it.

However, if you truly want them gone, I'd use delrin. The bugger is going to be keeping everything lined up and straight when you chop off the old tenon and drill the stem for a new one. I think the peaks of the threads in the mortis will give enough holding power with the right sized piece of delrin in there.

I'm with Kurt, looks like it's in good shape, and it looks like the stem lines up just fine. I'd wait for it to fail before messing with it, because it's long odds that your mod will look as good or work as well. There are plenty of pipes that actually need to be fixed that would be better for practice. Just my opinion, of course.

Thanks for your suggestions. I think I'll go with JHowell (thus Kurt) and wait for it to fail, then cut a delrin tenon for it. Anyways, I don't have a lathe yet

Had someone want me to replace the Jobey link with a more conventional tenon. I drilled the threads in the shank with progressively larger bits until the threads were smooth. Then took a delrin repair tenon and fit the threaded end to the stem mortise. Next turned a tenon to fit into the shank. Epoxied the tenon into the stem and slipped the pipe together. I turned the shank tenon with an integrated disk which fits into the recessed area of the shank. Works well and is strong.