Teipen Bulldog II

wdteipen · Post by **wdteipen** » Mon Oct 13, 2008 7:10 pm

Here's my latest finished pipe. I've made a new tool to hand cut the speed lines that I have more control of. I was using a dremel with a cutting disc and it was too hard to control. My new method takes longer but looks better. I bought an old lathe but I'm still working on it to make it good enough to turn pipes. The stem on this one is the second. I screwed up the first trying to smear the slot. The grain on this one isn't all that spectacular but it only has one very small sand pit that is almost invisible. I feel like I'm slowly improving. Let me know what you think.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 12:53 am

I think you did a great job, but I think the bit looks a bit thick.

Must pros get the stem right behind the button under 4 mm.

tritrek · Post by **tritrek** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 8:32 am

If it is a small stubby pipe, than it looks great! It would be great to put a reference object beside... perhaps a pipe tool or a box of matches. The draught hole looks enormous! What's its diameter?
BTW, not to be misunderstood: congratulations!

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 9:57 am

Great progress!

One thing you have to be sure of, is to get the botom of the tobacco chamber all the way to the bottom of the airway, if not a couple millimeters below it. Leaving it high like that can cause gurgling when moisture accumulates there.

It's tough to tell from photos, but the line of the shank appears to wander up about midway down it's length. I can't tell if that's just the angle of the photo though.

I do like the proportions. It's a nice stubby/pot bulldog. Unusual, and well done. The white stem accent is a great touch.

wdteipen · Post by **wdteipen** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 3:17 pm

tritrek wrote:The draught hole looks enormous! What's its diameter?
BTW, not to be misunderstood: congratulations!

The draught hole is 11/64". I like a nice open draw. I'm thinking of dropping down to 9/64" though to match my stem taper after doing some research though.

tritrek · Post by **tritrek** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 4:18 pm

wdteipen wrote:
tritrek wrote:The draught hole looks enormous! What's its diameter?
BTW, not to be misunderstood: congratulations!
The draught hole is 11/64". I like a nice open draw. I'm thinking of dropping down to 9/64" though to match my stem taper after doing some research though.

Wow, that's what I call open draw!

4,36 mm... wow!! I haven't heard about anyone daring to go over 3.5 mm (~9/64") considering 2.9-3 mm as normal... but I'm a total beginner.
Thinking about it... hm... I should give it a try!

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 8:26 pm

9/64 and 5/32 are normal for most pipe makers. I work almost exclusively in 5/32, with an occasional venture into 9/64 for long saddle bits.

wdteipen · Post by **wdteipen** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:09 pm

The difference between 11/64 and 5/32 is miniscule. 1/64 of an inch to be exact. The draw is nice and open and I don't have any issues with moisture with the pipes I've made for myself. Like I said, I think a 9/64 inch would be better so no turbulence is created when you go from the 11/64 stummel to the 9/64 tapered stem. Any thoughts on that?

wdteipen · Post by **wdteipen** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:31 pm

Oh, and thanks for the great feedback. I really appreciate it.

wdteipen · Post by **wdteipen** » Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:39 pm

The pipe is 5 1/2" long. The stamped letters/numbers are 1/16" so there's a very poor scale reference.

pierredekat · Post by **pierredekat** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 3:35 am

Looking good, Wayne!

Along the lines of what Kurt was mentioning, the next time you're placing an order at your favorite tool supply store, see if they have any riffler files.

Hopefully you can find a set that has an approximately 3/32 inch diameter rattail version that's bent at approximately a 1/2 inch radius, because it can do wonders for smoothing the transition where the draft hole meets the bottom of the tobacco chamber.

Alternatively, you might be able to use a sharp spay-point knife to shave those sharp edges down a little.

But I think the riffler file is a lot easier, takes about 5 minutes and makes all the difference in the world with regard to eliminating whistling and condensation.

Other than that, I think you did a very nice job with your mortise and tenon, and your overall design.

I think Bulldogs are some of the hardest pipes to make, since trying to keep those square edges straight and centered is about like herding cats.

I myself have just about sworn myself off of making bulldogs because they're so tricky.

souljer · Post by **souljer** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 4:49 am

Hello,

Regarding the bottom of the bowl; instead of filing the remainder why not just drill the 2mm or whatever more? Also a round grinding bit on a dremel type hand tool could work and clean up once you get it where you want it. You're only removing a little material, so if you are using a drill bit to cut away the material I would chuck up the bit and then hold the pipe against it and just turn the bowl or chuck by hand. This will give you the most control; do not turn the machine on.

As for the draft way in the stem, I would not abruptly jump down to 9/64. Continue with whatever is in the shank for a ways. If you are using a tapered bit this can go further as you approach the bit area at which point you can switch to a smaller gauge bit. Be mindful to not make the top and bottom too thin and then just make your V-channel in the bit.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 7:48 am

I use a 1/16 bit about an 1.5" ( v channel ) from the button end and 9/64 tapered for the rest.

From my experience it a must to make the draft hole and the hole in the stem match or you will get moisture build up

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:52 am

wdteipen wrote:The difference between 11/64 and 5/32 is miniscule. 1/64 of an inch to be exact. The draw is nice and open and I don't have any issues with moisture with the pipes I've made for myself. Like I said, I think a 9/64 inch would be better so no turbulence is created when you go from the 11/64 stummel to the 9/64 tapered stem. Any thoughts on that?

No matter what diameter you use, it's best to match what's in the stummel to what's in the stem. That way you don't get any abrupt transition, and no danger of turbulence-related moisture buildup.

Charl · Post by **Charl** » Wed Oct 15, 2008 12:15 pm

I use 4mm as standard on mine, and only sometimes 3mm. But that's mainly because I can't seem to find a long bit that is thinner than 4mm here in SA. I have no problem with the draw of pipes with 4mm airholes, though. I think it is nice and open with 4mm.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Sat Oct 18, 2008 7:07 pm

I like to use 3/16ball the way through.

wdteipen · Post by **wdteipen** » Thu Oct 30, 2008 3:45 am

KurtHuhn wrote:One thing you have to be sure of, is to get the botom of the tobacco chamber all the way to the bottom of the airway, if not a couple millimeters below it. Leaving it high like that can cause gurgling when moisture accumulates there.

I've been thinking about this a bit. I've been intentionally placing my draught holes this way to get them oriented as much in the bottom center of the chamber so that there is no dottle left at the end of a smoke. I have a couple of pipes drilled this way that I kept for myself and they actually tend to gurgle less than my other pipes. I can see the the reasoning behind what you're saying. It stands to reason that a draught hole to the front bottom of the chamber as is typical would allow the moisture to settle in the heel of the pipe rather than gather at the draught hole. I'm just not finding that occuring though. It got me to thinking about the Falcon and Kirsten pipes. The draught hole is dead center on those pipes too. I've never smoked a Falcon or Kirsten but does anyone know if gurgling is an issue with these pipes because of the orientation of the draught hole? I'm curious and still learning.