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I know it's heresy, but I need to fill a whole in a pipe. I was refinishing a pipe for a friend and knocked out one of the pre existing fills. It has sentimental value to I would really like to get the fill back in there. Sanding it out is not an option, it's a massive crater.

I'm thinking that the use of briar dust with some type of glue would do the trick. Any ideas or tricks would be helpful.

Thanks
Chris

I've heard that pipe manufacturers use a dyed clay slip.

Wood dust and wood glue is how I've always fixed up wood working projects, but the surface finish leaves a bit to be desired. Most wood glue doesn't take stain, so you couldn't stain the pipe after without the fill standing out. I've heard of briar dust and CA glue too, which probably has a lower shrinkage issue, but again, I think staining after isn't possible. So the trick would be to have pre-stained briar dust and glue and hope you get lucky on the color match.

There is a wood filler epoxy on the market by Minwax, I believe, that is like Bondo (auto body filler), but has some wood fibers in there and it can take a stain. That stuff is tuff! But, of course, it doesn't take the stain the same way wood does, but you may have more luck trying to get it to match up with multiple spot coats. Warning: remove most of the excess filler before it fully hardens, cause it's HARD stuff.

kbadkar wrote:I've heard that pipe manufacturers use a dyed clay slip.

That actually makes perfect sense now that I think about it. Very interesting!

Personally, briarfox, I would head down to your local hardware store and get some wood putty - the kind that claims you can stain it. Test it first though, to see if it can be stained and polished.

KurtHuhn wrote: Personally, briarfox, I would head down to your local hardware store and get some wood putty - the kind that claims you can stain it. Test it first though, to see if it can be stained and polished.

I've had problems with wood putty popping out... not on pipes, but other projects. I'm not sure I'd trust wood putty with the temp extremes. If it works, it works; I'm not saying it won't.

There is also another product by DAP, I believe, that is almost entirely wood fibers, some bonding agent, and a nasty solvent base (serious buzzes). You are supposed to store the can upside down, if that's any clue. It sticks really good and takes a stain like wood, but the surface finish is somewhat "grainy". That stuff is also an option to consider.

Thanks guys, I'm going to start with some wood putty then move to the epoxy and DAP stuff if needed. I was really hoping for a way to use briar dust but the lack of the ability to stain counts it out.

Briar dust and a bit of CA glue.

kkendall wrote:Briar dust and a bit of CA glue.

Kendall, were you able to get the fill to stain properly?

Briarfox wrote:

kkendall wrote:Briar dust and a bit of CA glue.

Kendall, were you able to get the fill to stain properly?

I ver much doubt it. You would need to stain the dust before mixing with the glue.

It does turn out darker.

So it will take stain then? I think practicing on some scrap would be best. I'm trying to get him to just let me rusticate it.

Always experiment with scrap or "test pipes". Never try an experiment on a customer's pipe, or one you intend to sell.

i would stain some briardust and use superglue, use a needle and fill very gently both dust and glue. Other glues often change when heated and the filling can turn out as a bulb at the filling. But try on a piece of scrap briar first.

Briar dust and super glue is the way to go. Always disclose the presence of the fill no matter how good it looks at first.

Would you mix the dust and Super glue then apply it or would you put some glue in then the dust?

I follow the method I learned from Tim West. Mix some briar dust with a medium thickness CA adhesvie (super glue) and use a straight pin to work the material into the pit or hole. If you mix it this way, the briar dust will actully grab onto some stain and your can blend it into the current finish. There's no guarantee though that the color will not change at a very different rate than the rest of the pipe. If you tripoli the pipe be careful not to put too much heat on the reparied area. Best to let it dry really well before going forward.

This is not a method for working with a brand new pipe that you plan to sell. I use this to repair pipes that folk want repaired with the discalaimer that I am using fill material.

Thanks Craig , that was very helpful. I have some standard store bought super glue but it's setting up way to fast. I think a trip the the hobby shop is in store.

Thanks again all. The help you all provide to an aspiring pipe maker is priceless.

Briarfox wrote:I know it's heresy, but I need to fill a hole in a pipe. I was refinishing a pipe for a friend and knocked out one of the pre existing fills.

Are you not able to use the existing fill that was knocked out? Seems like if you could use the original fill then you would just have to fix the circumference of the fill rather than create an entire new fill.

It fell out and crumbled. So far I've tried filling a practice crack with briar dust then putting the super glue ontop. I was very please with the results after sanding staining and buffing. Now I just need to track down some slower drying stuff.

I made a mixture of wood glue briar dust and a dab of lacquer that worked guite well. It stained with no problem also. Of course it hasn't been tested over time. I did use mostly briar dust until it was the consistency of a wood filler. I would imagine that CA glue would hold better. Will you be able to sand it smooth once it's dry or will that ruin the existing finish?

Well, I've went back and filled old project pipes that had horrid flaws. The CA glue and briar dust mix is working quite well. I'm noticing that the more liquid method (More glue to dust used) gives a better finish. It satins on but you can tell it's a fill. I've been trying to cut out the fill area and make it look more like grain. not to shabby looking.