Drilling of stem without tapered bit?

Charl · Post by **Charl** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:10 pm

Is it possible to drill the airhole in the stem with only normal long bits? I'm having problems in finding a tapered bit here in SA. I know it's not the ideal way to go and I will eventually get one, even if I have to get from overseas. But in the meantime I want to start trying my hand at making my own stems. I even thought of taking a normal bit and trying to grind it to a taper on my benchgrinder!

Any help would be appreciated!

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:03 pm

It's possible, yes, but it's pretty far from ideal - or even suggested. I have several of these things hanging around the workshop. Send me your address and I'll get a couple mailed over to you.

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 2:12 pm

If you are able to order from US companies, Jamestown Distributors sells them.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » Tue Jun 10, 2008 3:00 pm

you can also take one of your long bits put it in a hand drill on reverse and while the bit is turning in the drill hit it to a belt grinder. Taper it your self untill you can get one. I used one of these for months, sometimes I still do.

Charl · Post by **Charl** » Wed Jun 11, 2008 4:24 pm

Thanks for the response, guys. I know Jamestown Distributors sells them and I know how to try and taper a normal bit on a benchgrinder. Just don't want to go through the agonising process of shipping and waiting to see if it gets here. A small liitle bit could easily disappear somewhere en route.

As it is, I am still doing construction work in the Congo. It is on a 2 month work and 10 day off basis. My hands are aching for the feeling of a block of wood in the hands, but somehow in that 10 days I never get a chance!
There is always so much to do! And of course the wife also needs attention!

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 7:26 am

Charl wrote: There is always so much to do! And of course the wife also needs attention!

Best to focus on this first!

pierredekat · Post by **pierredekat** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 9:07 am

I know what it's like when you're itching to do something, but you're not able to accomplish what you want as quickly as you would like. There's lots of things like that.

I'm thinking go ahead and try grinding a bit to see what that gets you, but while you're at it, go ahead and order some tapered bits -- I like the 5/32" x 6" long ones, myself.

They were like $12 US each, and I bought a half dozen, the last time I ordered them. And they will hopefully last me awhile.

But the first time you draw on a pipe with a draft hole drilled by such a bit, you will see why pipemakers-in-the-know use them. That funneling action makes all the difference in the world, when it comes to how the pipe draws.

It's fine to want to get started doing something, but you also have to think long-term, as well.

I, myself, haven't made a pipe in about a month and a half because I have been busy getting my 1930's model Atlas lathe the way I want it: sourcing out replacement parts, drill chucks, live centers, and so on.

I definitely have the itch to make a pipe, myself, but I'm not losing any sleep over it, because I know that I'm still accomplishing something in the long run.

Order some taper drill bits, and while you wait, sit down and develop some designs, order some other stuff from other sources, reorganize your workspace, research some new African woods ... and definitely spend some quality time with the wife.

It will all pay off in the end.

Charl · Post by **Charl** » Thu Jun 12, 2008 12:05 pm

Again, thank you to everybody.

And certainly have a good excuse to ignore the wife for a bit next time I'm home now, thanks to you pierredekat!

Will print out your post when at home and show it to the wife, black on white!

Oh, and Kurt, thanks for the offer, but I suppose I will just have to wait for the proper thing.

android · Post by **android** » Wed Jun 18, 2008 11:39 pm

you can also take one of your long bits put it in a hand drill on reverse and while the bit is turning in the drill hit it to a belt grinder. Taper it your self untill you can get one. I used one of these for months, sometimes I still do.

how much of the bit gets tapered? i think i'll try this as i can't justify the expense and shipping cost for the actual bit quite yet.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 3:33 am

android wrote:how much of the bit gets tapered? i think i'll try this as i can't justify the expense and shipping cost for the actual bit quite yet.

Approx. 1" should suffice. Don't taper it to a sharp point. You need to leave about 1mm to 1.5mm width of the original cutting tip.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:47 am

I will generally taper about 1-1.5 in

But frank is right you need to leave a bit of the original cutting tip.

I can buy a 6" 9/64 bit for about $4 at local hardware store vs. $16 at jamestown

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 10:50 am

Ryan wrote: I can buy a 6" 9/64 bit for about $4 at local hardware store vs. $16 at jamestown

Wish that were the case in my neck o' the woods. I scoured every hardware store in my area and nobody had anything long enough.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 1:27 pm

hazmat wrote:
Ryan wrote: I can buy a 6" 9/64 bit for about $4 at local hardware store vs. $16 at jamestown
Wish that were the case in my neck o' the woods. I scoured every hardware store in my area and nobody had anything long enough.

Matt, order a few items to warrant the shipping costs. Even the USA made aircraft bit is only $2.38 from Enco. You can't go far wrong at these prices: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PART ... NO=5831430

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 1:31 pm

Frank wrote:
hazmat wrote:
Ryan wrote: I can buy a 6" 9/64 bit for about $4 at local hardware store vs. $16 at jamestown
Wish that were the case in my neck o' the woods. I scoured every hardware store in my area and nobody had anything long enough.
Matt, order a few items to warrant the shipping costs. Even the USA made aircraft bit is only $2.38 from Enco. You can't go far wrong at these prices: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?PART ... NO=5831430

Thanks, Frank. But I did get one a while back. Was just surprised there were none available locally in the longer lengths. Even Woodcraft was a no go. They had the 3" bits but nothing longer.

android · Post by **android** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 5:43 pm

this begs another point, and i know it's probably contended, but what are your preferences for draft hole, i've heard of 5/32, but hadn't heard of 9/64... and do you like to finish it off with a 1/16?

thanks.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Thu Jun 19, 2008 6:34 pm

I use both 9/64 and 5/32 for stems and airways. The 9/64 isn't that much smaller, and it really gives much more comfort for me when making a stem as thin as I possibly can.

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 8:32 am

android wrote:this begs another point, and i know it's probably contended, but what are your preferences for draft hole, i've heard of 5/32, but hadn't heard of 9/64... and do you like to finish it off with a 1/16?

thanks.

When you set up to drill the rod with the tapered bit, you mark it so it drills about 3/4" to 1" short of the bit end. After you've done this(this is my method, YMMV) use a long 1/16" bit to finish drilling through the rod.

Ryan · Post by **Ryan** » Fri Jun 20, 2008 9:17 pm

I do pretty much the same thing and it works really well.

wdteipen · Post by **wdteipen** » Mon Jun 23, 2008 1:18 am

I prefer a 9/64" tapered followed by a 1/16" but I'm a newbie. The draw seems perfect to me.