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• OK I’m looking to start making my own stems, I’ve read through this section to get an idea of how now I think I’m ready to start getting tools and equipment to do so. Since I don’t have a metal lathe to cut good tenons I plan on going the delrin route. Went to on line metals and found these options not sure which I need.
• ACETAL AF100 PTFE FIBER FILLED ROUND
• ACETAL LF13 PTFE POWDER FILLED ROUND
• ACETAL ROUND BLACK
• ACETAL ROUND NATURAL
Also where is a good place to get the tapered bits and the stem material? Does the stem material come round?

For the delrin you'll want the acetal round black. That'll work for you. Online metals is a good place to get it, MSC also sells it.

You can get the tapered bits from Jamestown Distributors. I don't have a link for them handy but it's been posted on this forum a couple of times. A search should provide it for you. Make sure you get the long bits.

You can get rod stock from http://www.pipemakers.org . This is probably your best option for the time being as you'll no doubt only be ordering a few rods. There's another vendor listed in the following thread, as well: viewtopic.php?t=2252 . The stem material comes "roundish"

Once you get used to the delrin procedure, it's a dream to work with. Kurt posted a procedure as a sticky in this category of the forum that lays it out nicely.

Thank you Matt, I read Kurt’s sticky and it seems like even I can follow it enough to get started. The delrin is also suppose to be more durable from what I understand which I hope is true because I’m busting tenons all the time. It also seems as though it will lend it's self well to making inlays since you can make the tenon as long as you need.

Another question to show my ignorance to all this. When I follow the link to pipemakers emporium I see a location for stem pre-made Lucite and Vulcanite they have stock in Lucite and I’ve seen ebonite somewhere as well, which of these is best or is it a personal preference

You might want to try cast acrylic rod for your first few stems. Your screw ups will cost less than if you were to screw up ebonite.

I also found working with the more transparent colors somewhat instructional.

http://www.delviesplastics.com/mm5/merc ... crylic_Rod

As for choice of material it is personal preference, I think that the modern plastics are slowly becoming more acceptable - but could easily be wrong.

jeeper wrote:Another question to show my ignorance to all this. When I follow the link to pipemakers emporium I see a location for stem pre-made Lucite and Vulcanite they have stock in Lucite and I’ve seen ebonite somewhere as well, which of these is best or is it a personal preference

It's mostly preference from both perspectives, smoker and maker. Lucite(acrylic) is a bit tougher on the teeth than ebonite but holds a shine much better and doesn't oxidize. It also comes in far more colors and styles than ebonite. Ebonite is softer on the teeth, shines up nicely and when good quality, holds a shine well and doesn't oxidize very readily, though it will. Ebonite/vulcanite is the traditional material, but lucite/acrylic, IMHO, is just as acceptable. As mentioned by CKR, acrylic is much cheaper than ebonite and a good way to go when learning as it isn't quite as painful if you bugger a stem and have to start over. There's a thread in here that thoroughly discusses lucite/acrylic in regards to a stem material and includes information on ways to work with it, things to keep in mind when working with it, etc. I'll see if I can hunt it down and I'll post a link for you. Delvies Plastics is a good source of lucite/acrylic if you choose to go that way.

here's that link for ya: viewtopic.php?t=1692&highlight=

I found a source for Delrin rod. I've bought some from this place to start learning with... $1.12 per 2ft length, Black 5/16 dia

From Industrial Plastic Supply. Many different sizes available:
http://www.indplastic.com/

I've recently found that, depending on your area, you may find a local distributor of delrin. I had a desperate need for some immediately and was planning to have it overnighted or samedayed to me, but found a local plastics supply store that carried it. Give it a shot, it's pretty common stuff.

Jeff

OK I’ve ordered some Lucite rod square, I should be able to round this on my wood lathe but it won’t be as precise as a medal lathe, should I cut it into manageable lengths and drill the center while it’s still square to make sure I get center?

Personally, I would round it first and then drill it.

With practice, you can get pretty damn precise with a wood lathe. Certainly enough for making square stock round. I always make the stem material round before drilling - that way I know it's all concentric.

Also, especially with lucite, acrylic, and other plastics, you need to be very careful with them. They're rather fragile and brittle, and if mishandled, will shatter. If you drill the stock before turning it, you runt he risk of a catastrophic material failure - especially if you're not skilled with the wood lathe.

It's a good idea to remove as much of the corners as possible before turning on the lathe. You can make an angle jig and saw them off in the bandsaw, or you can use a big roundover bit on a router table if you can get the feed light enough not to create too much heat. Take the corners off can be done on the lathe, but you run the risk of chipping and it's a pain. It's really worth it to buy round stock.

Starting with acrylic is doing it the hard way, IMO. Vulcanite is more expensive, but much nicer to work with.

Jack

JHowell wrote:Starting with acrylic is doing it the hard way, IMO. Vulcanite is more expensive, but much nicer to work with.

I agree 100%. Acrylic has it's merits, but it's a real pain to work.

JHowell wrote:It's a good idea to remove as much of the corners as possible before turning on the lathe. You can make an angle jig and saw them off in the bandsaw, or you can use a big roundover bit on a router table if you can get the feed light enough not to create too much heat. Take the corners off can be done on the lathe, but you run the risk of chipping and it's a pain.

You can also knock the corners off on your belt sander/grinder. One quick pass over 36 grit should do it. Just be careful, 36 grit loves chewing on knuckles!

Ok ordered some vulcinite which is already round and twice as expensive yikes

jeeper wrote:Ok ordered some vulcinite which is already round and twice as expensive yikes

Uh huh.. you say yikes now. Wait till you botch a stem you're working on and have to start over Seriously, though, once you get a feel for the process of making a stem, each successive attempt becomes that much easier and you won't have that waste. Also, any vulcanite you might goof while learning, if it's not too badly goofed that you can't use it again for any purpose at all, save it. Botched stem attempts can be used for finishing bands or shank caps, or anything else you can think to use it for.

jeeper wrote:Ok ordered some vulcinite which is already round and twice as expensive yikes

Heh, heh, it's the tip of the iceberg. You can always make shorter stems. : ) Really, the cost of stem material compared to everything else is pretty small, and it's worth paying for quality.

Jack

thanks guys, I know I need to go through this but man your right when I mess up a stem I'll be pretty irked

Just go really slow and deliberate-like with the first one and you may be able to avoid alot of the pitfalls. The "trouble spots" with my first stem, which wasn't all that long ago, were:

cutting in the slot cleanly - this took a few(by few I mean numerous) botched tries to do properly. I use a dremel bit as described in several other posts for this and have found the best way *for me* is to clamp the business end of the dremel into a vise so the bit is vertical, like a table saw blade, and to basically push the stem up onto the bit from underneath, while I look down from above to line it up. YMMV, and you're surely going to want to experiment, but I've tried a bunch of methods and this seems the most workable for me.

rough shaping - this was almost the biggest hurdle I had to get over. I was super heavy-handed at first and was totally borking anything I even looked at. Once I learned to take it slow and got acclimated to the way my belt sander takes off stock, the lightbulb fired up and it got much easier in terms of keeping good symetry and not burning right through the rod.

taking your time - nuff said. This was THE biggest hurdle. You just want to SEE that thing get done and it's easy to get ahead of yourself. Just go slow and check your work often and you'll be making stems in no time at all.

Well I read this thread over and over took all advice to heart had a plan of attack but just didn't put it in to practice.I had a heck of a time getting the stock in to the chuck and centered. I got 5/16, and 21/64 bits from the two brands that Lowes has. The mortise in the briar is just to tight with the 5/16th and to big with the 21/64th, seemed to be ok in the stem. Then I just went to fast with no idea as to where to start shaping and I'm pretty sure when I go to smooth it out I'll bust into the airway. I'm sure most have gone through this but man I thought this was suppose to be my way of relaxing.


P.S. I blame Kurt, he made it look to easy in his photo essay.