Turning a taper

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Thu Sep 06, 2007 10:47 am

Something I've been trying to figure out on my Taig is whether or not one can turn a taper in a piece of rod.... and how best to do so. I've played around trying to "etch-a-sketch" and it's a bit daunting, so I've basically been using files to get where I need to go and cleaning it up afterwards. Anyone else have thoughts on this?

Matt

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Thu Sep 06, 2007 1:20 pm

On some lathes you can offset the tailstock so that you'll turn a taper.

TreverT · Post by **TreverT** » Thu Sep 06, 2007 2:07 pm

There is a taper option gadget for the Taig that will allow you to rotate your tool post and advance it in precise angles to create the exact taper you want. Otherwise, you're stuck just using files and eyeballing. Depends on how precise you need it to be.

JHowell · Post by **JHowell** » Thu Sep 06, 2007 4:36 pm

I've never used a Taig, but for short tapers like military mounts the best way in a regular lathe is to rotate the compound rest. You'll want to check the angle with a protractor, but most lathes with a rotating compound have an etched scale of degrees that is pretty accurate. Otherwise, offsetting the tailstock and turning between centers is the other option, but I don't know if Taigs can use drive dogs and face plates. Somewhere around I've got the math on figuring how far to offset the tailstock for a given angle on a bar of given length.

Jack

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Thu Sep 06, 2007 6:09 pm

Thank ye gods for the magical mathematics!

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pythagorean_theorem

Possibly the most used, and least known, piece of Euclidean geometry out there.

ckr · Post by **ckr** » Thu Sep 06, 2007 7:16 pm

I have had good results advancing the cross slide with the carriage and when the bit is taking off enough to continue down a way, then back it up and taper more in and continue down again, repeat and repeat until I get the taper where I want it. Then smooth it out with sandpaper. It is a bit of a PITA. (the etch-a-sketch way)

I also have done them free hand with the tool rest you got in the pipemakers option especially when working with a stem of wood and vulcanite. (err acrylic in this case)

Not a stem that would appeal to many but with the tool rest and a chisel I had very good control over what was coming off as well as the shaping. So if you have not tried free-handing it on the tool rest you should give it a shot.

Of course, I am now also interested in this taper option gadget mentiioned by Trever.

BTW: Judging from the hand cut stem of yours I saw in the gallery any problems you are having are not evident in your work.

pierredekat · Post by **pierredekat** » Thu Sep 06, 2007 8:56 pm

hazmat wrote:Anyone else have thoughts on this?

Yes. Those of us with wood lathes are asking, "How do you NOT turn a taper?"

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 8:41 am

Thanks, fellas. It's not a terribly huge issue, not a problem, so to speak. I was just curious as I was working on a stem the other night and trying to figure out a way to taper the rod before I started shaping it up into a stem. I need to get a set of small turning tools so I can play around free-handing it. I do have the tool rest, etc, for that operation.

CKR.. thanks for the kind words!

Matt

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 9:00 am

pierredekat wrote:
hazmat wrote:Anyone else have thoughts on this?
Yes. Those of us with wood lathes are asking, "How do you NOT turn a taper?"

I'll admit it - I thought exactly that. I won't say what else I thought, for fear of starting the whole metal:wood lathe holy war again....

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 9:06 am

to you stinkin wood lathe elitists who can turn tapers in their sleep, with their off-hand, standing on one leg and hopping

TreverT · Post by **TreverT** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 9:10 am

ckr wrote: Of course, I am now also interested in this taper option gadget mentiioned by Trever.

It's just a standard Taig option, a secondary rotating axis toolrest. It slides onto the standard tool carriage but it has a rotating base with a dial degree indicator, and its own cross-slide, so you turn it to the desired degree and lock the regular carriage in place, then use the taper's crank to turn your taper.

I've got one but don't use it all that much, as I usually just eyeball my tapers instead of fooling with changing the machinery around.

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 10:38 am

What Trever said. I looked at that thing on Nick Carter's site the other day before I asked the question but I hate having to change out tools if I can avoid it, so I poo-pooed the idea.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 1:08 pm

I'm guessing the gadget Trever's referring to is pretty much the same as what Jack is referring to, the rotating tool post with it's own cross slide feed, same as my lathe has. You're still restricted to cutting a straight line (albeit at an angle), unless you do the etch-a-sketch thing, as mentioned a right PITA.

The curved taper (a cove in woodturning speak) that ckr illustrates is definately easiest to do freehand, wood lathe style. Surely there must be a tool rest available for the Taig, or it's easy enough to make one. I bought a relatively inexpensive one that attaches to my cross slide table using the T-slots.

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 1:34 pm

Frank.. there is a woodturning tool rest available for the Taig. I have one, I just don't have the turning tools to use on it. I'm going to have to hit up woodcraft soon and have a gander at theirs.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 1:40 pm

hazmat wrote:Frank.. there is a woodturning tool rest available for the Taig. I have one, I just don't have the turning tools to use on it. I'm going to have to hit up woodcraft soon and have a gander at theirs.

The Pinnacle brand is pretty good, and most Woodcraft stores carry it. The price of $30-$40 per tool is easier to swallow than $60-$80. And, if you play it right, you tell your wife that you need to spend $80 on tools, then substitute $40 worth of wood or other things for what you saved!

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 2:24 pm

I don't have a wife I need to maneuver around, but I still like the way you think, Kurt

ckr · Post by **ckr** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 9:19 pm

No, don't do this to me. It looks too neat, too gadget-ity to pass up, an exciting new thingamabob.

http://www.taigtools.com/c1200.html

Sorry, i-Poligy in order, but it looks like it could cut a M-2 taper.

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Fri Sep 07, 2007 10:32 pm

ckr wrote:No, don't do this to me. It looks too neat, too gadget-ity to pass up, an exciting new thingamabob.

http://www.taigtools.com/c1200.html

Sorry, i-Poligy in order, but it looks like it could cut a M-2 taper.

Yep, that's the compound angle slide. Very handy. Sized just for your lil Taig, too.

JHowell · Post by **JHowell** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 1:15 pm

I didn't realize the question regarded curved tapers or general stem shaping on the lathe. I believe a sharp scraper freehand is much faster than the etch-a-sketch method. For a short, straight taper (again, like a miltary mount) the angled compound is the way to go. With a 4 degree tapered pin reamer for the mortise and the compound set at 2 degrees for the tenon, it's practically automatic.

Jack

Frank · Post by **Frank** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 2:12 pm

JHowell wrote: With a 4 degree tapered pin reamer for the mortise.

....2 short planks question: What is a "tapered pin reamer"? Any chance of an image link? Thanks.

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Turning a taper

Turning a taper

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