Waxing
There are loads of places sell buffing wheels, but in order to publicize Pipedia I'll be giving you this link: http://pipedia.org/index.php?title=Pipe ... d_Supplieshazmat wrote:Thanks, guys. Where can I get some decent 8" buffs?
Regards,
Frank.
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Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
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Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Try Caswell Plating for flannel buffs http://www.caswellplating.com/index.html I've heard they are good. They were out of stock when I replaced my set so I haven't tried theirs. I use the Beall system 8" buffs and like them a lot. You can get the Beall buffs at Woodcraft and nearly any other woodworking/turning shop. The ones I have are "not quite" single sewn. 
They are actually sewn twice. Once around the arbor and another row of thread about 2" from the outside edge.
They are actually sewn twice. Once around the arbor and another row of thread about 2" from the outside edge.Re: Waxing
I almost wet myself from laughing the first time I read this last week and I'm just now able to respond. You just have to see it from the perspective of a newbie. Btw, it's none of your damn business and it's never just a waste of time!!hazmat wrote:Pipes, you bunch of smart arses.
Quick question. When you're waxing your stummel, how many coats of carnauba are "enough" and at what point are you just wasting your time? Curious...
Quick question regarding how Wax is applied. Do you move the stummels with the direction of the wheel or against it? After reading caswells pdf on buffing, I learned that against the wheel cuts more and with it polishes it.
I just got my 8" flannel buff in and I still don't feel that I'm waxing correctly. Maybe I'm lacking pressure.
What does the wax look like as it's applied anyway? Sometimes I can see small dots and I assume thats wax...
I just got my 8" flannel buff in and I still don't feel that I'm waxing correctly. Maybe I'm lacking pressure.
What does the wax look like as it's applied anyway? Sometimes I can see small dots and I assume thats wax...
Good question, I've never really considered it. Seriously, though, this sounds more like it has to do with buffing compounds(brown and white) than with the waxing phase. You're not trying to cut with the wax, you're simply attempting to apply it as evenly as possible.Briarfox wrote:Quick question regarding how Wax is applied. Do you move the stummels with the direction of the wheel or against it? After reading caswells pdf on buffing, I learned that against the wheel cuts more and with it polishes it.
This is a tough thing to explain, you really just have to get used to it and "know" when you're there, as silly as that may sound. If you're seeing dots and/or streaks, then you're probably applying it a bit too heavily, so maybe that's a start for you?I just got my 8" flannel buff in and I still don't feel that I'm waxing correctly. Maybe I'm lacking pressure.
What does the wax look like as it's applied anyway? Sometimes I can see small dots and I assume thats wax...
If I were you, I would find a few scrap pieces of briar(or cut a block into pieces you can use for an experiment) and finish them up like you would a pipe; go through all the sanding, staining, buffing, etc. Then play around with each of them in different ways. Leave one un-waxed so you'll be able to see a difference between it and the "finished" pieces. Play with those other pieces and try more pressure, less pressure, more wax, less wax until you start seeing progress... and you will. It's pretty much a "light bulb" skill, in that when you finally get it, you hear the *click* and the next time you do it, you won't have to think about it too much.
Thanks for the reply Hazmat. I always keep my scrap briar so I'll give your idea a try. The dot's that I was referring to are very small and they buff out with a soft cloth and the pipe shines... Until I hold it for 5 min.hazmat wrote:Good question, I've never really considered it. Seriously, though, this sounds more like it has to do with buffing compounds(brown and white) than with the waxing phase. You're not trying to cut with the wax, you're simply attempting to apply it as evenly as possible.Briarfox wrote:Quick question regarding how Wax is applied. Do you move the stummels with the direction of the wheel or against it? After reading caswells pdf on buffing, I learned that against the wheel cuts more and with it polishes it.
This is a tough thing to explain, you really just have to get used to it and "know" when you're there, as silly as that may sound. If you're seeing dots and/or streaks, then you're probably applying it a bit too heavily, so maybe that's a start for you?I just got my 8" flannel buff in and I still don't feel that I'm waxing correctly. Maybe I'm lacking pressure.
What does the wax look like as it's applied anyway? Sometimes I can see small dots and I assume thats wax...
If I were you, I would find a few scrap pieces of briar(or cut a block into pieces you can use for an experiment) and finish them up like you would a pipe; go through all the sanding, staining, buffing, etc. Then play around with each of them in different ways. Leave one un-waxed so you'll be able to see a difference between it and the "finished" pieces. Play with those other pieces and try more pressure, less pressure, more wax, less wax until you start seeing progress... and you will. It's pretty much a "light bulb" skill, in that when you finally get it, you hear the *click* and the next time you do it, you won't have to think about it too much.
I move the object against the rotation, both buffing & polishing.Briarfox wrote:Quick question regarding how Wax is applied. Do you move the stummels with the direction of the wheel or against it? After reading caswells pdf on buffing, I learned that against the wheel cuts more and with it polishes it.
There's also more chance of the wheel grabbing the item & pulling it from your hands when going with the rotation.
Apply the wax to the item, i.e. pipe, with light pressure against the wheel. Final buff by hand or with a separate unwaxed, loose flannel wheel.
That seems to be the nature of briar with just a wax finish. I experimented with HUT Crystal Coat (a liquid mixture of shellac & carnauba) a bit, but I wasn't pleased with my results. I'll experiment more in the near future.Briarfox wrote:The dot's that I was referring to are very small and they buff out with a soft cloth and the pipe shines... Until I hold it for 5 min.
The more experienced pipemakers sometimes use Shellac. I believe Trever sometimes uses it, and also Kurt & Tyler, if I recall correctly.
Regards,
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
Frank.
------------------
Grouch Happens!
People usually get the gods they deserve - Terry Pratchett
As far as my experience goes, the lighter the touch with the wax, the better. Too much pressure and you'll burn off the wax you're trying to put on. Additionally, the wax finish doesn't last very long. A smoke or two. Those pipes with the ridiculous finish that seems to last forever are either finished enormously well, i.e. sanded and buffed so well that they shine without wax, or finished with shellac or some other substance.
This may be the key to your issues, Briarfox. If you're expecting a finish that's going to shine forever, carnauba's not it. It wears off no matter how hard you try to keep it from doing so. There's ways to avoid it as Nick mentioned and all the info you probably need on getting started is available if you do a search for shellac on this forum.Nick wrote:As far as my experience goes, the lighter the touch with the wax, the better. Too much pressure and you'll burn off the wax you're trying to put on. Additionally, the wax finish doesn't last very long. A smoke or two. Those pipes with the ridiculous finish that seems to last forever are either finished enormously well, i.e. sanded and buffed so well that they shine without wax, or finished with shellac or some other substance.
I did a little searching on shellac a while back. I was under the impression it was used to set the stain, not to help with the shine.
On a good waxing job, how long will the pipe keep it's glass like look?
Just finished a freehand and so far it's still shinny, just not as shinny as when I first waxed it.
On a good waxing job, how long will the pipe keep it's glass like look?
Just finished a freehand and so far it's still shinny, just not as shinny as when I first waxed it.
Shellac is used for setting the stain, but it also provides a good surface for taking on wax and helping get a good shine. You still MUST go through the process of finishing the wood to the best of your abilities via sanding and buffing and what have you or no amount of shellac will get you where you want to be. It's an aid, not a solution.
