Bend and twist stem?
Bend and twist stem?
I just carved a pipe with a nice spiralling half twist up the shank and that I want to follow through with the stem. The shank has like a football profile. I shaped down a pre-formed oval saddle stem for a nice match, but the points of the "football" are at like 2 and 8 o'clock, so the button on the stem needs to twist to the standard 3 and 9 o'clock, so the pipe smokes perpendicular when clenched. Make sense? The problem is that I want to put a little bend and twist in the stem and make sure it balances correctly with the pipe. I'm thinking the only way to make it precise is to have the stem on the pipe while bending to check balance. I have bent stems before by eye, using a heat gun and with a fluffly cleaner through it, but never with the stem ON the pipe. How would you accomplish an exacting bend and twist? I was looking at Rad's latest squashed disc and was wondering how he mananged to keep perfect harmony between stem and shank with such a wiggly stem?
Hi kbadkar,
I can't imagine bending a stem without it being attached to the pipe.
For what you are talking about, you probably should have started with a round stem and shaped the shank and stem so that the ends of the foot ball (oval?) shank ended up where you wanted at 2 & 8 with the button still aligned correctly with the bowl. Then you only have to bend the stem with no twisting.
Your only choice now is to bend and twist the stem so that the button goes to 3 & 9. This will probably work, since you don't have far to go from 2 & 8. Just give it a go, and see what happens. Make sure the stem is heated enough so that it's pretty soft, otherwise you risk breakage.
The stem on the squashed disc is carved to give it a little bit of curve (scooped on one side and rounded on the other) and then when I bend it, I bend it sideways a little bit as well to accentuate the curve.
Hope this helps.
Rad
I can't imagine bending a stem without it being attached to the pipe.
For what you are talking about, you probably should have started with a round stem and shaped the shank and stem so that the ends of the foot ball (oval?) shank ended up where you wanted at 2 & 8 with the button still aligned correctly with the bowl. Then you only have to bend the stem with no twisting.
Your only choice now is to bend and twist the stem so that the button goes to 3 & 9. This will probably work, since you don't have far to go from 2 & 8. Just give it a go, and see what happens. Make sure the stem is heated enough so that it's pretty soft, otherwise you risk breakage.
The stem on the squashed disc is carved to give it a little bit of curve (scooped on one side and rounded on the other) and then when I bend it, I bend it sideways a little bit as well to accentuate the curve.
Hope this helps.
Rad
Twisty bendy
Thanks Rad, it makes sense... I just worried about heating the stem still attached to the shank, thinking it might affect the wood. 
Apparently, I needn't fret.
Another thingy, do you fully sand and polish the stem before twisty bendy or after? I've overheated a stem and the finish degraded so I had to re-sand and polish. What's your order?
Apparently, I needn't fret.
Another thingy, do you fully sand and polish the stem before twisty bendy or after? I've overheated a stem and the finish degraded so I had to re-sand and polish. What's your order?
stem diameter
Oh yeah, about Rad's suggestion, the football "points" are 1 inch apart and I don't have any pre-fabs rounds that fat and my ebonite rod stock is only 5/8" I think. 
But I think for flexibility I'll buy some 24mm stuff from SEM, considering all the praise.
But I think for flexibility I'll buy some 24mm stuff from SEM, considering all the praise.
I finish the stem completely before bending. Some makers finish shaping the stem after bending.Another thingy, do you fully sand and polish the stem before twisty bendy or after? I've overheated a stem and the finish degraded so I had to re-sand and polish. What's your order?
After bending the stem requires a re-buff to get the shine back up to snuff.
Rad