New Belt Sander

JMB · Post by **JMB** » Thu May 20, 2004 8:34 pm

Got my new Delta 1" belt with the 5' disc sander on the side. Came box so I put it all together as it calls for. My question is do y'all keep the "back" plate on for the 1" belt. Seems like it will get in the way, also table for it. That looks like a good place for a pipe to bounce off & hit you in the chin. If you are lucky!!!!!
I can see were it is of use on the Disc sander to help square the briar up. The table I mean.
Should be getting my stuff from PIMO soon. Getting a little jumpy now. Always do when I try something new.

marks · Post by **marks** » Thu May 20, 2004 10:47 pm

As far as the plate on the back of the belt sander, I have left mine on. It works very well when you cut down the stem from rod. I have been thinking lately of removing it for some operations, though, but for rough shaping, I have been holding the stummel above the plate (I've got the 1x42 with the 8" disc, so I may have a little more room above the plate). For straight walled pokers, I leave the plate on, as it provides a nice, solid surface for the belt.

I use the disc for squaring blocks before drilling. Works great for that, as well as some shaping operations for panels and other shapes where you don't have to get around the edge of the disc.

For stem shaping, I took a piece of oak, drilled a hole in it, then stick the tenon in the hole and use the block of oak in conjunction with the mitre gauge and table, and this works great for shaping stems on the belt. Slow, but good. I can angle the mitre gauge, and rotate the stem for different sanding angles. Works much better for me than freehanding the stem against the belt. I am going to try this method for slooooowly turning shanks as well. Should work fairly well up to a point. Will still have to do a lot of hand work around the shank/bowl junction, but I think hand work in this area is pretty standard (at least I have to do a lot of hand work in this area). There may be faster ways of doing this, but I have not found them yet.

You'll find that when shaping stummels, you will burn the wood on the edge of the belt when doing junctions. Just don't go all the way to the finished proportions with rough shaping on the belt, and you can get rid of the burns by hand sanding and filing (they are just surface discolorations).

As with you, I am still experimenting and still finding out what works best for me with this tool.

Good luck, and go slow at first. A master duck decoy carver once told me that you can always take off more wood, but you can never put it back on.

JMB · Post by **JMB** » Thu May 20, 2004 11:23 pm

Thanks Maks,
" Just don't go all the way to the finished proportions with rough shaping on the belt,"
That's good to know, I bought all the differant grades of paper 60 grit up to 320 grit for the 1" belt. Was going to go as far as I could with 320 then hand sand from there. Will have to do some re-thing.

"Good luck, and go slow at first." good advice, I will take it to heart.
Thanks again

marks
You'll find that when shaping stummels, you will burn the wood on the edge of the belt when doing junctions. Just don't go all the way to the finished proportions with rough shaping on the belt, and you can get rid of the burns by hand sanding and filing (they are just surface discolorations).
[/b]

whitebar · Post by **whitebar** » Fri May 21, 2004 2:56 am

I have used mine both with and without the metal back plate and have decided to leave it in. I like having something hard and flat behind the belt. I can move up above it on the belt if it seems to be in the way. Having it in works great for pokers as marks indicated. Good luck and go slowly at first until you get the hang of using it as it is easy to go to far. Also, watch your fingernails. I have hit the belt with a fingernail several times and it will give you a really fast manicure!!

8O 8O 8O

marks · Post by **marks** » Fri May 21, 2004 6:17 am

Oh yeah, I forgot about the fingernails. I have given myself a couple of manicures too

JMB, to make sure I was clear, when I said don't go all the way to the finished proportions with the belt, that is mainly around the shank/stem junction. Most everywhere else you will be fine. You'll see what I mean the first time you use the belt sander. You will also find that you will be using different grit paper, so what you got is cool. Practice, and you will learn what works best for you. I'm still learning.

Have fun playing with your new toy.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Fri May 21, 2004 8:05 am

I am sooooo wanting one of these as well as a lathe. Trying to hold off on the sander for now at least. My father-in-law has a big one - probably 8 inch disk and ...not sure of the belt size. Anyway, we'll be moving in with the in-laws for about 5 or 6 months whil our new house is being built, so I'll have easy access to his shop.

Nick · Post by **Nick** » Fri May 21, 2004 11:10 am

LOL! You're a nut Random.

Gonna have to look into that file though.

JMB · Post by **JMB** » Fri May 21, 2004 1:19 pm

Funny I was looking at "chainsaw file" at McCoys yesterday when I pick up the sander. I thought it would work the way you say. Didn't get it but will the next trip.

Folks, thanks a lot. you guy's are great. Tyler you have a great bunch here!!!!!!! thanks agin for this site.

random wrote
I have mentioned the virtues of the chainsaw file before but I will rehash it again because I don't think anyone took it seriously.

marks · Post by **marks** » Fri May 21, 2004 6:16 pm

random wrote: I have mentioned the virtues of the chainsaw file before but I will rehash it again because I don't think anyone took it seriously.

Actually, I did take you seriously in your other post, and I now have two chainsaw files that I am just beginning to use in the handwork portion of my pipe making. Thanks again for the tip about the chainsaw files.

ArtGuy · Post by **ArtGuy** » Sat May 22, 2004 6:18 pm

My belt sander does not have a disk on it. The first thing I did was remove the backing plate and throw it away. I also did away with the platform that attaches to the front.

JMB · Post by **JMB** » Sat May 22, 2004 8:14 pm

For future reference how would you go about getting the rings on a Bulldog without the use a Lathe.

radom wrote:
For many operations what I have learned is that I can do the work with a machine and then spend a lot of time fixing it by hand, or I can just do it by hand to begin with and end up spending less time overall.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sat May 22, 2004 9:48 pm

My first attempt at that failed miserably. I didn't try a second time. I suppose it's possible, with a sharp blade and a steady hand. You could use a paper ring or someting to assist in marking the line, then go back over it later with the knife.

JMB · Post by **JMB** » Sat May 22, 2004 10:49 pm

I have been thinking a long those lines. How do you think drilling a hole a little bit bigger than the Diameter of the pipe where you want the ring out of 1/8 or 1/4 thick board. Then wedge it around the pipe for a tight fit. Had not thought of using a "sharp blade" of some kind. Of course the pipe would have to be dang close to 100% round for the wedge to work. That one is way down on the drawing board.
Couple months ago I bought a bunch of estate pipes on e-bay. There was 3 Bulldogs in the lot. I had never smoke a Bulldog before so I clean one up for myself and gave it a try. Fell in love with the way it fits in my hand. So I cleaned up the other two and kept them for myself. Good smoker's too.

Kurt wrote:
I suppose it's possible, with a sharp blade and a steady hand. You could use a paper ring or someting to assist in marking the line, then go back over it later with the knife.[/quote]

JMB · Post by **JMB** » Sun May 23, 2004 1:17 am

Thanks I will print this out and keep it in my Pipe's I Dream about file.

Random wrote,

random wrote:
JMB wrote:For future reference how would you go about getting the rings on a Bulldog without the use a Lathe.
I have never turned a pipe on a lathe, every pipe I've ever made has been hand shaped using a bandsaw to cut off bulk then using a rotary grinder to complete the rough shape, then using files if needed to complete the shaping.

First take a compass and use it to draw lines around the bowl where you want to cut the rings. Then take the Foredom (Dremel or whatever) and cut them.

The rings on this pipe were cut that way,

http://www.ren-prod-inc.com/random_pipe ... posite.jpg

It's pretty crude, but it's the first pipe that ever left my hands. The fact that the mortise/tenon fit of this pipe (sent to GL Pease) loosened up because of local humidity is the main reason I have never, and will never, make another pipe with a "standard" mortise/tenon setup where the stem fits into briar.

When cutting a straight line with a rotary grinder, you need a long/thin bit, not a ball. Lay the bit down on the line you want to cut. Draw it toward yourself, letting what has already been cut guide the bit. It helps to stick a finger, like the index or middle finger, into the bowl to keep your hand steady.

Nowadays I tend to use ball cutters for a lot of things that I used to use other tools for. I use an engraving ball to tighten up shank/bowl junctions for example.

You can learn to do a lot of things if you allow yourself to; you can learn even more things if you force yourself to.

Or you can let a machine do the work and when its precision lets you down you can buy a more expensive machine and go through the exercise again...

geigerpipes · Post by **geigerpipes** » Sun May 23, 2004 5:27 pm

on the Belt sander issue, I have had such a sander for 1 and a half year, the dremel version,
I do all my rough shapingh of the stummel and stem on it with good results, i use the plate very rarley when I want to take away more material quickly,but otherwise find that with a leather glove your hand can be a much more adjustable surface making it eazyer to follow the pipes form.

best Love
www.geigerpipes.com

marks · Post by **marks** » Sun May 23, 2004 7:18 pm

Thanks for the tip Love!

JMB · Post by **JMB** » Mon May 24, 2004 12:13 am

Thanks Love, I will remember that. Don't like to lose figher nails.
I looked at your site. You do good work. Realy liked your Weatherworn Pipe. Hope I can do as good.
JB

Love wrote:
otherwise find that with a leather glove your hand can be a much more adjustable surface making it eazyer to follow the pipes form.