FRUSTRATION!!!

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 12:25 pm

Hope everybody doesn't mind me venting some frustration on here. Been working on this pipe for a couple days.

It fought me practically from the start. Ran into a ton of pits in the block while shaping and changed the shape 3 times. FInally had something I thought would work, still had a couple small pits on it but nothing too drastic. EXCEPT, one of the pits kept getting bigger as I sanded. So being an idiot I thought I'd sand through the pit to see how deep it went and then try and change the shape yet again to get around the pit. NO LUCK!

This pit was a BIG one, and by the time I finally got through it, the wall of the bowl where the pit was is probably only 1/8" thick. Should have not messed with it and rusticated. But it might have burned out anyway.

I resisted the temptation to chuck the whole thing across the workshop, I can at least save the stem!

GRRR! Start over again!

David

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 12:34 pm

It'll be alright.. just take the stem off BEFORE you toss it about the shop

at least you didn't pull this doozy; had a super, super nice grain working on what was heading to be a freehand pipe styled after a Dublin shape.. I filed directly THROUGH the stummel wall into the chamber.. it was a hoot.. I tell ya, all I could do was sit there and laugh at myself.

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 4:07 pm

hazmat wrote:It'll be alright.. just take the stem off BEFORE you toss it about the shop

I took your advice hazmat! But before I did, I took the stummel to the sander one more time to see just how close to the tobacco chamber it would be if I sanded that pit out. Didn't matter, in the course of sanding I uncovered another one about the same size about 1/2 inch away from the first one. I think this attempt was doomed from the start.

Found a new rustication method though, concrete blocks make an interesting pattern! A little rough on shanks though! 8O

Needless to say, this one is in the trash!

bscofield · Post by **bscofield** » Fri Jun 02, 2006 4:46 pm

Next time try putting some stain on the sandpit/crack and see if it bleeds through to the tobacco chamber... that can be a big help in determining how much work to put into a rusticated piece if you don't want to roll the dice...

Tano · Post by **Tano** » Sat Jun 03, 2006 11:54 pm

I don't throw anything out until I get some sort of satisfaction. There have been times when, for various reasons a block deserves to be vaporized from the face of this earth. instead I've stopped myself, and gained much satisfaction from making sure I use every bit of it. I've cut it in slices so I can experiment with the different dyes, I try different rusticating techniques, I drill with different makers and sizes of drillbits. I've even sanded one with different tools and collected the shavings or sawdust so I can test with different glues, so on and so on. This is not to say that my first reaction isn't shock, then disbelief, discouraged, frustrated, angry,resolved and then vindictive.
Life is too short, have fun, regardless. All the best.
Tano

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Sun Jun 04, 2006 11:23 am

bscofield wrote:Next time try putting some stain on the sandpit/crack and see if it bleeds through to the tobacco chamber... that can be a big help in determining how much work to put into a rusticated piece if you don't want to roll the dice...

Great tip Ben, I've tried that before except using alcohol instead of stain. The stain might be easier to see. Another useful tip for the future!

tano wrote:I don't throw anything out until I get some sort of satisfaction.....Life is too short, have fun, regardless. All the best.
Tano

I normally do save the ones that for one reason or another don't work. But after 3 failed attempts in a row due to flaws in all three blocks, the best satisfaction I could get was to see it bouncing off the concrete wall!

In itself a tremendous satisfaction knowing this one is gone and I can start fresh on the next! And who knows? The next one might be fantastic.

David

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 8:22 am

Nice site, David.. do you do the fly rod making, too??

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Mon Jun 05, 2006 9:06 am

hazmat wrote:Nice site, David.. do you do the fly rod making, too??

Yes, I build the fly rods too!! :thumb:

Post by **Tyler** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 2:57 pm

bvartist wrote:
hazmat wrote:Nice site, David.. do you do the fly rod making, too??
Yes, I build the fly rods too!! :thumb:

To participate in this hijacking... will be ordering the blank for my first fly rod later this week! I am still having trouble deciding what size I want. I think I will likely go 5 wt at 8'6".

Tyler

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 3:49 pm

Tyler wrote: To participate in this hijacking... will be ordering the blank for my first fly rod later this week! I am still having trouble deciding what size I want. I think I will likely go 5 wt at 8'6".

Tyler

Uh Oh! Someone is going to complain we're getting off topic! 8O

Tyler, I have a page on my site that will give you a little info on sizes and weights if you are interested. (not that you probably haven't done some research!)
http://www.johnsoncustomflyrods.com/rod-selector.html

I've got a bit of experience building these things, so if there's anything I can help with, let me know!

Premade? or hand cut? Cork grip that is!

David

Post by **Tyler** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 4:39 pm

I was thinking about "hand cutting" my own handle, but hadn't made up my mind. Any advice on that? It seems relatively easy, but there is a chance for flaws in the cork rings, correct? (Sounds familiar!)

I will mostly be fishing for pan fish and bass in rivers and ponds, with the occassion trout when I head west to the Rockies. Sometimes I lean toward 4 wt, because I certainly catch mostly small stuff and that makes it more fun, then I think maybe 6 because it is more versatile. I've sort of landed between the two and am currently thinking a 5 wt. I can't decide between 8'6" and 9' though. I see pro's and cons to both lengths, and there is not an obvious winner. Thoughts or comments?

I'm planning on build a 4-piece from an Pac Bay IM7 blank.

Tyler (Who needs a new hobby like he needs a hole in the head)

RadDavis · Post by **RadDavis** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 5:07 pm

Hi Tyler,

Get 9 foot 5 wt. It's the best all around rod.

When I worked in a fly shop and guided for trout, we always recommended a 9' 5 wt. for a first fly rod.

Are you going to make your reel seat out of briar?

Rad

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 5:19 pm

Tyler wrote:I was thinking about "hand cutting" my own handle, but hadn't made up my mind. Any advice on that? It seems relatively easy, but there is a chance for flaws in the cork rings, correct? (Sounds familiar!)

A 100% chance of flaws in cork rings unless you buy very high grade ones. They are much easier to fill than any flaw in briar though. I use a latex wood putty mixed with small amounts of acrylic artists paints to match the color. Like pipe making, hand turning a grip is nothing more than a lot of sanding. Don't go past 320 grit paper or you'll burnish the glue joints between the rings and they will show more. Especially important if you are turning the grip with some mechanical means like a lathe. (no lathe tools though, won't work. Sandpaper only!)

I will mostly be fishing for pan fish and bass in rivers and ponds, with the occassion trout when I head west to the Rockies. Sometimes I lean toward 4 wt, because I certainly catch mostly small stuff and that makes it more fun, then I think maybe 6 because it is more versatile. I've sort of landed between the two and am currently thinking a 5 wt. I can't decide between 8'6" and 9' though. I see pro's and cons to both lengths, and there is not an obvious winner. Thoughts or comments?

I'm planning on build a 4-piece from an Pac Bay IM7 blank.

The Pac Bay IM7 blanks are good. I've built many and had no complaints. The 5 wt would probably give you the most versatility. It will handle everything you talked about. If you hit a large bass on a 4 wt. you've got a fight on your hands. And 6 wt is a little heavy for panfish. I'd stick with the 5. Its a good all-around choice. The length is mostly determined by where you will be fishing and whether or not you have the room to cast the longer rod. But there's really not enough difference between an 8 1/2 and a 9 ft to be a major consideration. The longer rod will give you a better tip action and will be a little more fun to catch smaller fish, but thats about all the difference would be.

Tyler (Who needs a new hobby like he needs a hole in the head)

What happened with those kitchen cabinets??????

David (who has too many already!)

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 5:22 pm

RadDavis wrote:Are you going to make your reel seat out of briar?

Rad

Briar makes fantastic reel seats!

Post by **Tyler** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 5:37 pm

bvartist wrote:
What happened with those kitchen cabinets??????

David (who has too many already!)

You HAD to bring up THAT! OK...that's not technically a hobby, see, rather that is a money-saving venture with the rewarding end of having built my own kitchen. I have no intention of repeating the process after completion! I officially declare, therefore that that is not a hobby!

I have no intention of fly rod building becoming a hobby either. It is more like the kitchen cabinets -- not that I will actually save much money on either -- with maybe one or two repeats for different weights. It is fly fishing that I intend to become more involved in.

Do you have any other blank suggestions for less than $100? I was planning on getting a H&H IM7 kit for roughly $90 for the whole smear (guides, seat, etc.) , but I am willing to go a little higher if there is more bang for the buck available.

Tyler

Post by **Tyler** » Tue Jun 06, 2006 5:43 pm

RadDavis wrote:Hi Tyler,

Get 9 foot 5 wt. It's the best all around rod.

When I worked in a fly shop and guided for trout, we always recommended a 9' 5 wt. for a first fly rod.

Are you going to make your reel seat out of briar?

Rad

I was definitely thinking about it! If I do, I need to get the skeleton that requires a round seat instead of the recessed seat, and frankly, I am having trouble figuring out which skeleton I need.

OK, between you and David, I think I'm convinced...9' 5 wt it is!

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Wed Jun 07, 2006 7:37 am

Tyler wrote:
RadDavis wrote:Hi Tyler,

Get 9 foot 5 wt. It's the best all around rod.

When I worked in a fly shop and guided for trout, we always recommended a 9' 5 wt. for a first fly rod.

Are you going to make your reel seat out of briar?

Rad
I was definitely thinking about it! If I do, I need to get the skeleton that requires a round seat instead of the recessed seat, and frankly, I am having trouble figuring out which skeleton I need.

OK, between you and David, I think I'm convinced...9' 5 wt it is!

If you want an aluminum reel seat I'd recommend an American Tackle A5.
If you want a Nickel-Silver reel seat go with a Struble U 20 or LPU 20. Or REC NBM. Or American Tackle NS 101. All of these are round body seats.

If you are only planning on building one rod, the kit is the way to go. And that price sounds good too. You can still turn your own reel seat insert, the seats come unassembled(with a couple exceptions). And if I remember right the H&H kit comes with the Amtak A5 seat. (I could go to the page and look but I'm too lazy!)

David

mahaffy · Post by **mahaffy** » Wed Jun 07, 2006 9:35 am

Darn you guys, you just can't stop talkin' about it! Soon as it stops raining for a while, I'll be out seeing how my rods feel now that I've added a little arthritis to my repertoir. Built my first around 1974 from a kit from a place called Angler's Mail, a glass 8'6" blank made in England; you can feel the rod flex all the way through the handle. Later tried to buy a 9' graphite blank from Walton Powell, but he sent me a rod for the same price. Then found a 9' 5-weight Pfleugger for the ridiculous price of $25. Then had a retinal detachment / re-attachment which makes me a little cross-eyed, which in turn makes me dizzy when wading a creek. Oh, yeh; I started off wanting to mention that I placed my guides and did the fancy winding using a book called (I think) "Fiberglass Rod Making" by Dale Clemens.