OneWay Talon Chuck Question

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 2:00 pm

Hi Everybody,

I've been thinking about buying a new chuck for my wood lathe. I use a Nova Chuck now but it is quite limited in the size of block I can clamp in it.

Can anybody tell me the size range that a OneWay Talon chuck with #2 jaws will handle?

My Nova chuck with 50mm jaws won't handle a block larger than 1 1/4" and the 100mm jaws just don't have the gripping power I'd like. I've had a few blocks fly out while drilling and that is a BIG concern.

David

JSPipes · Post by **JSPipes** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 5:13 pm

David, if they are similar to the ones on the OneWay Stronghold chuck, the #2 jaws will hold most any block just fine.

Joel

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 6:30 pm

Thanks Joel

I think the jaws for the talon and stonghold are the same.

Just wanted to make sure it would do what I need it to do before spending my cash on it. And if it will handle blocks up to about 2 inches I'd be happy. Just wasn't happy with the clamping ability of the Nova chuck.

David

JSPipes · Post by **JSPipes** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 8:22 pm

It will.

There are a few shapes that I've had trouble getting clamped right, but not too many.

Joel

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Tue Jan 31, 2006 10:58 am

Thanks for your help Joel, i think the talon chuck will be an improvement over what I am using now. My nova chuck just doesn't give me the capacity for many different sizes or shapes. I think my dilemma over whether to buy a new chuck or a drill press has been settled. I really prefer to drill the block on my lathe and I think the new chuck will make that experiece better.

Thanks
David

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Wed Feb 08, 2006 6:38 pm

Got my OneWay chuck today! Haven't had a chance to try it out but it looks like it will be a much better clamping system! Can't wait to give it a try!

Anyone want to buy a Nova Midi Chuck?????

David

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Sun Feb 19, 2006 9:56 pm

Pooka,

The Talon chuck isn't really made to go on a metal lathe. It might, but I don't know anyone that has tried. Metal lathes use a different method for fastening chucks than wood lathes - most wood lathes have a threaded spindle, while a lot of metal lathes have a flanged spindle. I have no idea what the Cummins lathe uses, but it looks very similar to the Grizzly and Harbor Freight lathesof the same size. Maybe check with Grizzly and see what options you have, and then figure out if this lathe is the same.

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Mon Feb 20, 2006 12:52 am

Ditto what Kurt said. Most metal lathes use a flange to attach the chuck and from what I read on the cummins it is also the case. So buying an adapter to mount to a metal lathe probably isn't an option. You could get someone to machine an adapter for the Talon chuck to mount to the flange on the metal lathe in place of the threaded adapter for mounting to a wood lathe. The Talon's threaded adapter is held to the back of the chuck with 3 machine screws, so all you'd need is someone to machine an adapter to match the flange on the cummins.

David

custom300 · Post by **custom300** » Mon Feb 20, 2006 12:20 pm

Pooka,
I was considering getting one of the PIMO Tenon tools...Is that not a good choice? I am trying to break into this slowly, and didn't want to spring for a metal lathe yet. I have a Delta Midi Lathe on its way, and planned on using the Pimo tool for tenons. Any comments will be appreciated.

Jamie

bvartist · Post by **bvartist** » Mon Feb 20, 2006 12:40 pm

Jamie,
The PIMO tool is ok if you have the patience to work with it. It is far from a precision tool. What I did was spent some time and a few tenons to set the pimo tool to fit the size of mortise I normally use, usually 5/16", then leave it alone and don't adjust it. I chuck either the rod stock or pre made stem in my wood lathe and turn the tenon close to the proper diameter then finish the tenon with the pimo tool and 600 grit sandpaper. After much frustration trying to get the tenons right I found this to be the best procedure for me. There are a couple other tenon turning tools out there, JHLowe and Pipemakers Emporium, but I don't have experience with either, and they cost about as much as a small metal lathe.
Hope that helps a little
David

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Mon Feb 20, 2006 7:32 pm

With practice you can turn a good tenon on a wood lathe, but it's time consuming. Instead, I use delrin, and find that life is sooooo much better. As much as I want a metal lathe, I simply cannot justify it right now, as my contruction procedures simply don't require it.

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Tue Feb 21, 2006 10:19 am

Pooka.. I've never used delrin(yet) but you may want to look into the stuff, based on what I've been reading. It's certainly MUCH cheaper than buying a new lathe and it sounds like it's working for people very well.

Basically all you need is some way to drill a hole and some way to glue the delrin into the hole.. no adjusting miniscule little cutting blades that never cut exactly where you'd like. I've placed a small order at the size I drill my mortises too. I intend to attempt fitting the stuff to pre-fab stems. If that works well for me, I may never turn another tenon again.. and I have unlimited access to a very nice metal lathe.

ArtGuy · Post by **ArtGuy** » Tue Feb 21, 2006 10:26 am

How are you guys facing things off without the metal lathe? I use delrin too but still use the taig to face off stem rings, bamboo, rod stock and such.

achduliebe · Post by **achduliebe** » Tue Feb 21, 2006 10:38 am

Hey John,

I use a forstner bit to face off the block and the stem.

Post by **KurtHuhn** » Tue Feb 21, 2006 10:56 am

Same here - Forstner bit for most of my facing needs. It's quick and easy to face shanks, rod stock, etc. Facing stem rings and bamboo is an entirely different procedure - basically I use a mandrel and a cutoff tool, and a very steady hand.

hazmat · Post by **hazmat** » Tue Feb 21, 2006 11:37 am

I'll go with Kurt here.. I picked up a good forstner bit this weekend and it works like a dream. I've known about using these bits since way back, just didn't have all the room I needed to work in and so didn't toss alot of money into buying things I couldn't use yet. I drilled two blocks this weekend and used the bit to face off both the top of the bowl and the shank. I haven't used it yet on rod stock, but I'm sure it will work well when the time comes.

The advice given to me was not to buy a cheapie bit or bit set. Spend some money on a well-made bit and you'll be fine.