Would like a Critique Of This Bent Dublin With Hand Turned Acrylic Stem

[shikano53]

Hi All, The stem on this pipe is not what I had planned. I was going to use a piece of 8 swirl Cumberland and was just about finished when I sanded through the area right in front of the button. I thought I was keeping a close eye on the height with my calipers but I guess not close enough. Crash and burn the Cumberland. I had this stem from another pipe that I haven't put into production or use and decided to try it. There is about a 1mm lip all around the stem/shank junction. The stem is just slightly larger. Since it was already all shiny nice, instead of taking the stem down, (I didn't want to remove any more material from the saddle area) I decided to make a judgement call and leave it. I don't think it looks too bad but I'm sure others will disagree. All comments welcome and appreciated.

Anyway, here she is.

[UnderShade]

You do what you have to do with what you have. I would have put some hockey tape around that shank and taken the saddle down to try to match it. Also, I think the bowl is a little tall, but some might disagree. I would have put a chamfer on the chamber also. Other than that, a good go. Keep it up!

[Sasquatch]

I think it lacks balance with the new stem, all the visual interest is with the tall bowl and the stem/shank area, it's visually stacked very much toward the bowl end, and there's this long flat stem hanging out trying to balance. I'd like to see a longer shank or a much shorter stem. And to my "pipe maker" eye, I just can't get over the different diameter of the stem and shank, it just adds to the impression, for me, that the pipe is just two pieces stuck together.

[Odissey]

I don’t even know what I’m missing in this smoking pipe. In my opinion, it looks more like an undersized Magnum than Dublin.
You have good surface finish of the briar, but the grain is still hidden under the paint. A little more contrasting coloring on this pipe could be beneficial.
I do not like pipes in which the opening of the smoke channel is displaced towards the back wall of the tobacco chamber. But that's just my personal preference.
My overall impression of this pipe is good. Its form does not cause delight, but there is no rejection of this form either. Such a good average. But you need to learn to show what you have done in all its beauty. With red paints without first dyeing the pipe black, this is quite difficult to do. Without a good finish, even a flawlessly shaped smoking pipe will not get many votes "Yes, I like it" from potential buyers.

[shikano53]

Thank you all. Points well taking. Comments, copied, pasted into a Word Doc and printed and hung on shop wall for next iteration.
Two thumbs up.

[DocAitch]

I can’t speak to the aesthetics of the general shape, At first glance, to me, this is an attractive pipe.
I would also like to see a little chamfer in the rim of the chamber as well. Not only does this appeal visually, but it also removes a sharp edge which might become a point of ignition for a sloppy lighting technique. PM me and I will send some photos on how I do this.
I also agree with Undershade about bringing the stem down.
Tape the shank and carefully cut the barrel of the stem to diameter with fine files, then appropriate grades of sandpaper.
This technique is one you might use to replace a stem on another pipe, and is worth developing.
If you touch the shank, it is no big deal to gently re sand and stain the entire stummel if need be. A very light fine sanding might also enhance the grain.
Did you sand through the original stem using a belt sander or were you at the hand sanding stage?
DocAitch

[shikano53]

Hi Doc, I was at the hand sanding stage. I was periodically checking to see where I was at and Ainu g for the 0.165 and went way below that . It was at 0.146 when I next checked and actually the hole appeared on the side of the button. I file my buttons back with a Stewart MacDonald 3/16” side file. Can’t remember the proper name.
Hey Todd, could you please clarify for me your comment about longer shank or shorter stem. I use the dimensioning guide for a billiard I found on this forum that you put up as a reference. I don’t know if those dimensions apply to a Dublin or if there are other dimension standards for said pipe. Why would I use a shorter stem? Wouldn’t that do the opposite of what I understand of the word “balance” as applied here?

[Odissey]

I will show you photographs of my two smoking pipes, so you will better understand what "Balance" is.





The length of the stem on both pipes is approximately equal to the length of the Stummels. The stem on your pipe is almost one and a half times longer. The stem shape you have chosen is not at all from this smoking pipe. For the Lumberman this shape is fine, for your pipe, with the right stem length, it might be fine too. But it is better to use the shape of the stem like in the pictures of my pipes. Such a rod does not divide the smoking pipe into two completely different and incomparable parts.

[shikano53]

Thanks odissey, I see what you mean. I’ve cut all the plateaux off, I’m going to chamfer the rim, and going to make a new, stem. I see now I should have made the shank longer. Just to be clear in my mind: the stem should be no longer than the stunner? Oh, and I’m going to refinish to allow the grain to stand out more.

[DocAitch]

When you refinish, fo ahead and reduce shank diameter.
DocAitch

[Odissey]

In the pipe industry, there are no general recipes for all forms of smoking pipes. Almost every form has its own individual characteristics.
The term "Stummels" in Russia means the wooden part of the smoking pipe. There are tubular forms in which the stem is noticeably longer than "Stummels". For example, the Prince. Your Dublin does not fit into any pipe-building standards. Therefore, it may be worth trying to make a stem whose length will be equal to the height of the bowl. In your case, the basic proportions of Dublin have already been violated, so you need to experiment and choose the length and shape of the stem that is most suitable for your pipe. Try cutting a stem out of a piece of wood and varying the length to see which length best fits your pipe.
Take one more tip. When we start cutting pipes we all dream of turning this world upside down. This is common to almost all novice pipe cutters. But do not try to create your first pipes by changing the classic shape of the pipes. They have already been perfected and verified to the millimeter over decades of their production. It is impossible for a beginner to jump over the creations of the great masters. If you want something new, create something new. Look for your shapes, but don't rework the classic ones.
When I started cutting pipes, I followed this path.
Here are some pictures of my first pipes.










Now I mainly make classics, but I can already afford to add something from myself to the classic form





Not having good skills in performing all work in pipe cutting, reworking classic forms is absolutely pointless. Working on new pipes should bring you Joy and enjoyment. If you do not feel this and work is just a headache for you, then you will not make a good pipe cutter.
Therefore, do what you like and do not listen to any advice, including mine. Do what gives you joy and pleasure. Sooner or later, the number of pipes you make will turn into their quality. The main thing is the satisfaction that work should bring you. If the work is enjoyable, then the pipes will start to turn out beautiful. Unfortunately, there is no other way.

[shikano53]

Odissey, great advice. I don't want to turn the world upside down - I just want to master a few good pipes that will sell at a moderate price and I have to admit; I can't think of anything right now that I can call my own.
Onward and upward.

[shikano53]

Here is the current iteration. The plateaux is gone and I want to start working on a stem. Could you please suggest a stem length from the picture I've attached?
Thanks all.

[DocAitch]

Good for you. It is a difficult step to take a “finished” pipe back to the file/sander or whatever. It gets easier with more pipes under your belt.
Removing the plateau made your options simpler.
I think that the bottom line- the entire length of the stummel, is an appropriate stem length, but I have difficulty with this decision as well. Perhaps one the more “aesthetically literate” guys will have a formula (involving the Golden ratio?)
I would also bevel the top. I like a very shallow bevel of the entire top with a small 45 degree bevel to break the edge of the chamber, but others have their own preferences.
DocAitch

[seamonster]

I think these measurements mean you're on the right track....
But the answer, I think, is "it depends"...

If you go with the length from the top of the shank to the top of the bowl, particularly with a saddle, you will get a short, speedy little, more-modern , jaunty dublin.
If you go with either of the two longest dimensions (they look pretty similar [or even slightly longer]) and a tapered stem, you will have a more classical, more elegant, "grown up" pipe.
Just depends the direction you want to go. If it were me, I'd go with the longer stem, make it a taper, and add just the slightest hint of a bend.

Jeremy.

[shikano53]

Thanks Doc. I will do that but I can't chuck the pipe again so it will have to by the old 'Kentucky Windage' rule. The old mark-1 human eye-ball.
seamonster, I always go with 'elegant' so I'll go with the longer stem and slight bend.
Great advice from all.

[Odissey]

For me, the bowl remains disproportionately high. It is difficult to give advice without knowing the actual dimensions of the smoking pipe. I agree with Seamonster. It is difficult to come up with a more correct solution. I would probably try to visually lengthen the shank, setting an accent made of horn or other material, and only then a tapered stem with a slight bend.

[DocAitch]

Thanks Doc. I will do that but I can't chuck the pipe again so it will have to by the old 'Kentucky Windage' rule. The old mark-1 human eye-ball.
seamonster, I always go with 'elegant' so I'll go with the longer stem and slight bend.
Great advice from all.

I don’t use a lathe- its all “Kentucky windage”.

[shikano53]

Hi Doc, what I mean is to bevel the rim, I would have to re-chuck the pipe which would be breaking the number one cardinal rule. Complete all work necessary when the pipe is chucked. Never re-chuck. So I don't quite know how I would do that.
Suggestions or were you referring to if you are going to bevel, do it while chucked as in planned?

[DocAitch]

I mean that I never have a stummel on the lathe.
This is a sequence with a plateau top, but I use a similar procedure with a smooth top, cutting a very shallow bevel and smoothing by hand before using the beveling tool.
I also use this tool to bevel the mortise in the shank face.
I hand cut the bevel roughly with a rotary tool sanding drum at about a 45 degree angle (eyeball- the beveling tool below cleans up the bevel). I mark the inside of the chamber before cutting

Then I use a mandrel made from a piece of shovel handle.



Through the grits 80-180-220-320-400 ( or thereabouts)

and voila! (There is a slight ridge visible here that I hand sanded out)


DocAitch