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I was working on a nicely figured billiard and it had a significant flaw at the mortise end of the shank, which was not only unsightly, but possibly structurally significant, and decided to attempt a silver band.
I like the result enough to add the pipe to my own collection, but encountered a couple of issues that I would like to put out the forum. I unfortunately didn’t take a photo of the flaw.

I had to figure out how to recess the band and used a piece of 5/16” tool rod turned to 1/4” as my “pin gauge”. The front of the pipe has a blob of Thermomorph plastic with a depression for the live center. The bowl just clears my saddle/compound (8” swing). this was turned down to the ID of the 15mm silver tube.

Band/tube in place- now reducing the shank and stem to the OD of the tube.Tube protected by clear tape





All in all, I am happy with this pipe, and learned a bit about working with silver (my first time ever), and discovered a technique that will allow me to do similar shank treatments on my non lathe turned pipes, however, I do have a couple of issues that I would like to resolve.
#1- the tube is a cylinder, but the shank and the stem both taper. There is a slight redirection of the gleam line as it goes from shank to band to stem.
#2- polishing silver is messy and the silver is very difficult to keep of the shank. There is a slight darkening of the shank on the underside and other areas of the shank that are overbuffed. I have experienced this with bras reinforced military mortises, but that is generally a small area and more easily finessed.
Any comments or opinions on these issues?
DocAitch

Bottom line: fitting the pipe to the metal has so many hassles associated with it that the other way around---fitting the metal to the pipe---was settled upon long ago as the industry standard. It's called "spinning."

If you want to keep using tubing, you'll either have to stick to non-tapered shanks, turn the outside of a too-thick-to-start-with tube to the taper you want, or learn how to "chase" bands on a ring-sizing mandrel.

For the sanding discoloration problem repeated applications (as they begin to disintegrate) of Scotch magic tape applied TIGHTLY is the only way I've found to keep metal powder off the wood.

Thank you,George.

Spinning silver, pro style:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9C0zvyonOek&t=6m10s

Thanks George.
After watching that silver spinning, I have a good idea of how to proceed with the next band. This silver that I have is 0.925 fine, and it should respond to a bit of spinning when I get it mounted right.
I also have a sequence in mind for buffing thanks to your suggestion of using the tape.
I will post the next one when I get it done.
Walt aka DocAitch