pipemakersforum.com

This is my second pipe from scratch.

I tried to do a smooth bent brandy. The briar ended up being full of knots, so I did my first rustication. Stain came out to dark, tried to work it a bit.

Things I know I botched:
-the draft hole in the bowl needed to be offset lower
-the stem funnel is rough, although I learned alot on this one, which will be reflected in my next pipe:)

Thanks,

TGP

Good on you for knocking a few pipes out. My advice (advice I wish I would have started with myself) is pick a pipe you like in your own collection and try to recreate it, then compare them. Learn from what's different and move on from there.

Let's do this. We will pretend that we did not notice your publication. And you immediately go to

https://vermontfreehand.com/product/pim ... g-at-home/

and order your PIMO pipe making guide there.
The first thing you need to understand is that a pipe is not a stick with two holes. The pipe is intended for smoking tobacco. And in order for a pipe to produce a sweet and tasty smoke, it must meet certain standards. You need to understand the internal anatomy of the tube. Understand how to drill it, what diameter holes should be, where and how these holes should intersect. You should be aware that the cross-section of the smoke duct opening should not change along its entire length.This also applies to stummel and stem. You need to know what should be the size of the bite and the size of the button. You should know which tolerances in the sizes of holes and joints you can afford and which you cannot. There are so many things you need to know before making a pipe. If the pipe doesn't have the right design, everything else doesn't make sense. There is no object for condemnation, there is a pipe-like shape, but there is no pipe.

Now about the photos of the pipes.
Read this
viewtopic.php?f=18&t=8876
before taking photos of your next pipe. We do not need your hands, lighters and ashtrays in the photographs, we only need pipes, preferably just on a white background. All foreign objects in the photo only interfere with seeing the smoking pipe The size of photos for publication is 800 x 600 pixels, no more.
Now a few words about your pipes. They are not ugly, there is an idea in your forms. Learn the anatomy of the smoking pipe, make the next pipe according to the standards and come again. You will succeed.

Regards, Odissey

Will do. Thank you very much!

JMG, thank you! Very good idea and will be easy for me to compare.

Odissey,

For full visibility, the holes are 5/32" in the stummel, 5/16" fit for the tenon into the shank. Then a tapered 5/32" down to a 1/16" for the opening at the stem. Also I have PIMO's book but didn't see where the bite and button sizes were specifically called out. Where is that? Would love to read more thoroughly.

Thank you!

-TGP

Here is a great article with a lot of information about bite and button sizes.
http://www.fumeursdepipe.net/arttuyauxroan.htm

Thank you seamonster! this is great:)

thegingerpiper wrote:Thank you seamonster! this is great:)

keep in mind, these are only reference, or guidelines. What really matters is how it feels in your mouth.

Sent from my bloopty-bloop, using hooty-hoo.

thegingerpiper wrote: ↑Thu Jul 23, 2020 9:34 am Odissey,

Then a tapered 5/32" down to a 1/16" for the opening at the stem. Also I have PIMO's book but didn't see where the bite and button sizes were specifically called out. Where is that? Would love to read more thoroughly.

Thank you!

-TGP

Good day!

These 1/16 inches are the most confusing.
I don’t know, maybe in America there are different standards from Russia. Several times I have seen photographs of smoking pipes from American pipe cutters. The tubes had a clear acrylic stem. And on them, indeed, the stem was drilled with a drill with a diameter of 1/16 or a maximum of 1/12 inch. Here on the forum, no one recommended such hole sizes, and I decided that what I saw in the photos was just an exception to the rule and was made for beauty.
This is not the case in Russia. We make a slot in the stem. Its width at the exit from the stem is usually 8 - 10 mm, at the point of contact with the 5/32 inch hole, this slot is about 6 - 7 mm wide. The height of this slot is approximately 1.8 mm. Today I can make a slot 40 - 45 mm long. A week ago, I could not do this. The length was only 25 mm, so the 5/32 inch hole had to be drilled deeper.
This allows you to keep the cross-sectional area of ​​the opening for the smoke channel along its entire length without changes.
In my opinion, this is a very important parameter, since it provides maximum comfort when smoking. The smoker does not need to exert any effort and strain his lungs. The smoke pours into the mouth by itself, without any effort. A pipe smokes easier than a cigarette. When using a 1/16 '' hole, this smoking comfort is not possible.
The thinner and longer the hole, the greater the resistance to the movement of air (and smoke) inside it.

There is a very simple test to check if the stem is made correctly. I invented it myself. Take a smoking pipe, insert its shank into your mouth, pinch your nose and start breathing through the pipe. I can usually inhale and exhale 5-7 times. After this, the air begins to not suffice and breathing through the pipe has to be stopped. Then the same procedure with breathing must be repeated with the stem. Through the stem, I can usually inhale and exhale 10 to 12 times.
All these figures, of course, will each have their own, adjusted for age, lung condition, etc. But the main rule that must be observed is the following. Breathing through the stem should be freer than through a pipe without a stem.

Regards, Odissey

To add to Odissey’s first entry, take a quick look at Premal Chheda’s sticky on which views to present for a critique.
These views allow the viewer to see where you are with your lines, surfaces, and over all shaping.
DocAitch