What to look for in a used Foredom

[n80]

Aside from it actually running, what sorts of things do I need to look for in a used Foredom tool? Certain models better than others for pipe making? Specific specs to look for? Certain speed controllers?

They are pretty pricey when new but I see older ones on eBay for much less. Want to make sure I'm not getting the wrong thing.

George

[LatakiaLover]

For sculpting & shaping, the low speed/high torque models with a drill-style keyed chuck not only work best, they're essential.

For the high speed stuff the ones that use collets and have a reversible motor are essential.

Trying to do a given job with the wrong TYPE is why there are so many disasters and rotary tools have a bad reputation in the PipeWorld.

[n80]

LL, which model are you using in the videos where you are making pipe stems. That's what I'm looking for. In the video it looks like it is low speed.

[LatakiaLover]

It's the LX model. Range is from barely moving to 5000 rpm. I use it for every "rotary tool bench task" I have except one which absolutely must have a reversible motor and high rpm.

[n80]

That’s the model I need. Thanks.

[cpd2186]

I'm not sure how well this will go over but I bought a Foredom copy on eBay. It is a chinese ripoff but works incredible. Have had no issues and only around $100 brand new. I would buy this again anyday!

[cpd2186]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jewelry-Tools- ... 1f45c01e77

[cpd2186]

It also has forward and reverse.

[n80]

Wow. Thanks for the link. I was thinking they were $350-400 new! Wonder if these are legit? Even if they are knock offs, $100 is not a huge risk.

[LatakiaLover]

Almost certainly a Chinese knock-off. Meaning they DO work, they just won't for nearly as long as the real thing. (cheap/soft metals, bearings, hot-running motors, etc)

https://www.foredom.net/knock-offs/

More to the point for this board, the reason people have such a hard time getting good results with rotary tools for pipe work is their high rotational speed. What's good for jewelers is death to pipe makers. Speed = frictional heat and a lack of controllability. The model shown is not a low speed / high torque one.

Don't say I didn't warn ya.

[n80]

LL, how can you tell? It says 0-18,000 rpms. What do I need to look for to know low speed/high torque for sure? I guess I need to see top speed in the 5000 range?

I've got a Dremel. do not need another high speed hard to control rotary tool!

[LatakiaLover]

The only models that will do the "low speed thing" properly for what we do are the ones designed to handle loads at low speed, not just "dial down" to a slow load-free rpm.

The revvy ones will go that slow, in other words, but raggedly, and then bog & speed up as the load changes, plus overheat quickly. Engineering tradeoffs are on perfect display, here. You can have one thing or the other but not both.

It's why consumer-grade drill presses and lathes use belts and pulleys: So the motor can run at a constant speed.

There ARE ways to make a load-bearing motor change rpm while not burning up, but it is expensive. Big (220v) motors + computer controllers.

[KurtHuhn]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jewelry-Tools- ... 1f45c01e77

Unfortunately, that's a counterfeit. As are pretty much all the SRs that you see on eBay.

I can tell you, based on the experience of others, that they won't last, and will not perform as expected.

[BarrelProof]

This is unfortunate, as my SR is being delivered tomorrow.

I got it because it was what was recommended on a decoy carving website. I know - decoys aren’t pipes. However, I do a bit of both.

Is there any harm in using the SR to remove bulk material and then switching to a rasp/sand paper for finer work? I’m sure the LX would work for decoy carving, as well. I’m just wondering if the trade offs are this drastic. Specifically, if I can get by with one unit or if I’d be better off having one of each available.

I was really looking forward to the SR arriving tomorrow along with a bunch of other stuff for making pipes, including a few kits from Mark Tinsky. Now I’m wondering if I should leave the SR in the box and return it for a refund/exchange it for an LX?

[n80]

The least expensive new Foredom LX is about $250 and that does not come with the hand piece. Not sure how much those cost but I'm guessing a minimum total of $300.

The very few used Foredom models on eBay don't show RPM specs on the body of the motor. Typically just volts and watts and other voodoo I don't understand. I'm guessing if I find a a decent one I should be able to research the specs.

Again, I want one for stem/button/slot work.

I do find my Dremel (high rpm, very low torque) to be quite handy for rough shaping with a little sanding drum especially around the stem/shank junction and the back side of curvy bowls. Mine does not overheat and I've had it for over 20 years with no problems. It is not well suited to precise work as has been mentioned.

So you might be able to still use that eBay special for that sort of thing.

[BarrelProof]

From what I can gather about Foredoms - I’ve been researching them for about two weeks now.

SR = 1/6HP, universal ball bearing, 0 - 18,000 rpm, forward and reverse
LX = 1/10HP, permanent magnet ball bearing, 500 - 5,000 rpm, forward only
TX = 1/3HP, permanent magnet ball bearing, 0 - 15,000 rpm, forward only

I went with the SR at Foredom’s recommendation and after looking into carving decoys with one, too. The folks at Foredom said the SR would be fine for this application, although now it’s starting to sound like they may not have had the experience to make the claim. Rather, like they assumed typical woodcarving and ran with the suggestion.

[LatakiaLover]

This video demonstrates slot cutting at real-world speed. It also describes control issues when using rotary tools.

You can always cut slots and funnels the old fashioned way, but it is insanely inefficient compared to using "power tools."

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IoAFf2 ... Sp&index=8

Ditto cutting saddle stems. Files & etc are a massive PITA compared with a low speed sanding drum in a Foredom. (Sanding drums work infinitely better than steel cutters... don't even bother messing with those to shape stems.)

A Foredom will pay for itself quickly if you're a serious maker: 30 to 60 minutes saved X 100 pipes a year.

[n80]

That video is why I want one.....well, that and trying the same thing with a Dremel.

If I was doing this professionally I'd already have one.

[Doug535]

I'll chime in here, I ended up getting a TX model with the "good" metal foot pedal.(before George told me I should get an LX) It will go slow enough and has enough torque to do what is needed. I cannot attest to what the SR will do. I picked up the TX very cheap, brand new, in the box a year or so ago. You will need to get a different handpiece for it to use the side cutting bits and dremel type cutters. George is correct that it does take a little practice, but sooooo worth it. I just did a slot tonight and it took 10mins (I timed myself) from 1/16 hole to polished, including time to file and sand the inside of the slot.

[cpd2186]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jewelry-Tools- ... 1f45c01e77

Unfortunately, that's a counterfeit. As are pretty much all the SRs that you see on eBay.

I can tell you, based on the experience of others, that they won't last, and will not perform as expected.

I absolutely know it is counterfeit but if he is on a limited budget, it is a great option. I have used mine quite often for more than a year and it still runs like a top. He will be at $350 - $400 for the real thing. Of course if he can afford that, get it but if not this is a very good option.