PITH 2020!

[seamonster]

Kurt, what's the benefit?

Sent from my bloopty-bloop, using hooty-hoo.

[KurtHuhn]

Kurt, what's the benefit?

Sent from my bloopty-bloop, using hooty-hoo.

Accuracy and repeatability. You'll never get the pipe mounted on anything accurately enough to get that ring concentric once you remove it from the lathe.

I'm sure someone will describe to me some complex process or jig that could - but I don't have time for that. Cut the ring while shaping the pipe. It takes a matter of seconds, and you don't have to worry about it later.

This, of course, assumes that a lathe is being used to shape the pipe. If not, all bets are off. But in that case, I'd still cut it before, because the uneven surface of a blasted pipe will play holy hell with accuracy.

[Liberthorn]

Speaking about the ring...
(If you don't want to read the rambling skip down to LONG STORY SHORT)

Just a little background:
I am a break it first learn from that mistake kind of learner.
AND
I pretty much stick to my apple, brandy, and billiard shapes.

So my problem with Bulldog/Rhodesian have been the rings and a little issue on shaping the angle of the bowl just the way I want (but that's just going to be practice). I guess I can just not do the rings, but I like the challenge and I finally have figured out a decent way to turn my rings. I still say a prayer before I cut the rings because I am a little scared, and just would like to hear how you guys are doing it. There is always a different way that might feel better for your style.

RAMBLING:

I have had ROTTEN luck with my 5 attempts. The first two I tried on my mini taig lathe with some new tools (this was the first time I have tried to turn the stummel on the taig and I just to see what would happen). This was a slight disaster.
Thankfully I can salvage those two, but they are almost not worth it (at least for the PITH). The taig was good for cutting those rings and getting the angles. All it means is I am going to save up more quickly for my PM Lathe

I am much more comfortable with my wood lathe, so I switched back over to that. I pretty much have a process down to get a great result in getting the holes drilled and squared. I use the taig for my stem work.

BUT the problem I have on the wood lathe is cutting these rings and it is either due to a lack of a steady hand or a lack of intelligence. I am turning on the wood lathe alternating speeds between 1000-1700 rpm and I am using a diamond carbide insert in order to cut the ring.

The first attempt on the wood lathe was an absolute botch. After shaping the bowl, I just went straight in to cut the rings (heavy handed OF COURSE) and that diamond bit skipped all over the place. After cutting the top of the bowl down and skipping the bit 3 more times I was left with an unusable pipe (the depth of the bowl was less than 10mm.

The second attempt, same issue, BUT I was able to get a usable pipe out of it and finally figured out the speed and pressure of cutting the ring. So this is pipe is my PITH backup. (I just think it is a lazy design and boring)

The third attempt, I got a little cocky and threw on a nice high grade, tight grain block. Turned that sucker beautifully, got my rings on without a problem, and after I drill my chamber I see a giant sandpit. I started shaping the pipe and low and behold that sandpit goes all the way through. I almost cried.

So I pulled out some more blocks and I plan to get 3-4 more in the works. I think I will not go traditional shape because I hate it. Going to go a little wild, that's what it is all about.

Also you guys posting the pictures. GOOD WORK! It has inspired me to use some of my nicer blocks for you guys. Hopefully you will be getting that creme de la creme!

LONG STORY SHORT:

Questions
1 - What are you big boys using to cut the rings on a WOOD lathe?
2 - How pertinent is the speed of the lathe when cutting the rings?
3 - How much pressure are you applying when cutting the ring? (I know this is almost impossible to answer, due to describing the pressure and everyone has a much different perspective and style on turning [relatively])
4 - Regarding shaping the bowl, any tips on getting the angle and/or how best to approach it? The issue I am having is getting the angle correct in between the shank and top of the bowl. I keep cutting the angle too severe and it looks more like a diamond than a pipe. Any tips on turning tool shape/size of bit or setting up the angle of the tool rest, etc... (I know this question is almost not a question, more so if anyone has tips on turning that bowl it would be appreciated)

Comments
1 - I square up my blocks on a table saw. In rare occasions I loose a good 1/4" - 1/2" in width, but it is usually just a loss of 1/8" in width. This method works great for the VF chuck (in my experience). I heard and have seen others square by sanding wheel or chop saw. Any other good ways? What do you guys do?
2 - KURT! That shape you posted that looks like a saucer is right up my alley. And in all honesty the top of the bowl looks easier to shape than traditional bulldog/Rhodesian shapes. A good bit of hand tool work, but that is generally what I do anyways (to me it is more relaxing, enjoyable, and ACCURATE!)

[n80]

I can't help you much in regard to cutting the rings but despite a lot of other problems learning to use a wood lathe I found that cutting the rings has been fairly straightforward. But......that's just three pipes so maybe beginner's luck. I'm sure there will be plenty of opportunity to screw up in the future. I also use a diamond shaped carbide tip. It is an elongated diamond with a narrow point. On a couple of the pipes I marked the rings with a pencil with the block spinning. Then I just barely score the stummel and then slowly advance the tool. I'm usually at about 1200 rpm for this.

[BarrelProof]

How do you guys feel about a sure enough beginner joining this? I’m willing to make several between now and then, submit for feedback, take advice, etc.

I was thinking about buying 6 kits from Mark Tinsky and getting after it, but wanted to check here first. I’d love to do this, but the first one I make will be the first pipe I make, so I’m not sure if that’s okay, or not.

Also, I have no idea how I’d give feedback. I did buy a Foredom and I’ve carved some waterfowl decoys in the past, so I’ve got a little experience rounding and shaping wood. I just didn’t know if buying a kit is cheating and if I actually had too little experience to jump in.

Thanks in advance.

[Adui]

How do you guys feel about a sure enough beginner joining this? I’m willing to make several between now and then, submit for feedback, take advice, etc.

I was thinking about buying 6 kits from Mark Tinsky and getting after it, but wanted to check here first. I’d love to do this, but the first one I make will be the first pipe I make, so I’m not sure if that’s okay, or not.

Also, I have no idea how I’d give feedback. I did buy a Foredom and I’ve carved some waterfowl decoys in the past, so I’ve got a little experience rounding and shaping wood. I just didn’t know if buying a kit is cheating and if I actually had too little experience to jump in.

Thanks in advance.

I'm pretty sure that is what this is for. someone please chime in if Im wrong

[n80]

Again, as another noob, the way I'm looking at it is that I'm going to keep making pipes up until the deadline. If I don't have one that I consider worthy of trading then I'll just back out. No harm, no foul, as far as I can tell.

[BarrelProof]

Again, as another noob, the way I'm looking at it is that I'm going to keep making pipes up until the deadline. If I don't have one that I consider worthy of trading then I'll just back out. No harm, no foul, as far as I can tell.

I like it.

If there are no objections, I’d like to join and will order my kits from Mark forthwith.

“I’m in.”

[DocAitch]

The PITH is aimed at tempting more experienced carvers to stretch a bit AND at giving “noobies” feedback on their efforts. All who attempt the tested task are welcome,
DocAitch

[Shankwoodcraft]

I just wandered on here and wanted to check to see if I would still be able to join. I see above we are doing a bulldog/rhodesian!

Let me know if it is too late!

[BarrelProof]

If I’m not mistaken, I joined a week ago, so I’m guessing you’d be okay...

[Keresaspa]

I've voted for a blue-print pipe, so I decided to make a Bulldog based on Dunhill ODA 838 (1953).

Anyone care to guess why 838's are one of Dunhill's least produced shapes? Why they're as rare as hen's teeth?

Because they were so difficult and time consuming to make. Most likely added to the catalog by some higher-up who wasn't a shop person to fill out the 800-series ODA line, but was dodged at every opportunity by the workers (who hated them) and the cost accountants (who knew that several less difficult shapes could be made in the time it took to make an 848).

Will attempting one be a fantastic learning exercise? Hell yeah.

Can't wait to see how close you get.

This is exciting stuff, rat heer...

This is my second attempt making Dunhill inspiration Bulldog,
First was based on shape 145, and fo this one based on ODA 838 with some changes!
I've decided to make the shank narrower than 838. So, I create a negative elbow at the stem/shank junction! And I would like to know what do you think about it?
And also by doing so, the mortise wall also is thinner than 838 (~2mm min.), Is it too thin?!

[Keresaspa]

I've used Rustin's Danish oil for sealing the stain on this pipe. The solution in it's can evaporate a little bit and it gets thick.
And I was forced to buff almost all of it with Tripoly. So I think I have to re-stain and finish it with fresh Oil or Shellac this time?!

Any opinion about the best way to seal the stains and make it as shiny as possible? Which one remains for a longer time?

[Adui]

Thats a nice pipe!

[PremalChheda]

Just a heads up. All is still on schedule. I will update the list with the new entrants soon.

[J. Mouton]

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Well here is my submission. I hope it provides many years on great smokes and enjoyment to whomever recieves it. I chose the Rhodisian because I prefer the look and flow of the design. The pipe features a German Ebonite stem (cut tenon) with Faux Ivory and Ebonite recessed cap. Two tone blasted and smooth finish on the briar.

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[TheOldLie]

I'm brand new to pipemaking but looking to improve! If it's not too late to join I'd like to give it a shot.

"I'm in."

[Adui]

Just checking in, I haven't been very active here. I have one ready, I'm not happy with, if it goes out whoever gets it will have a great smoker that they get to tear apart in critique. I'm working on a Rhodesian now that I believe beats the Bulldog hands down already, AND will (hopefully) have the first ever hand carved stem from me. (Yep i said that before, it didn't work out..)

5/18/2020 Edit: Hand carved stem is a reality. It's going to be a real beauty this pipe!

[n80]

Don't count your chickens before they hatch. I've screwed them up at every stage of production!

[Adui]

I'll call this one beginners luck. If I can do two more right in a row I'll say I know how to make them