pipemakersforum.com

Curious as to what everone uses out there for glues and epoxy's
Just wondering if there's anytihng better on the market. It's an ever changing landscape.

Not sure if people have a one stop shop, or use various types for metal, tennons, logos, etc.

I've had good luck with gel glues (Gorilla and Crazy).
Was loocking at loctite epoxy as well.

For the longest time I had some cool marine two part epoxy, but it seems its time has finally come and it's no longer active.
That and I don't see it available anymore.

Thanks
-Jamie

I generally use Gorilla 5 minute epoxy that comes in a syringe-like double tube. Easy to get the right amount and it dries clear. It's easy to find at the local hardware stores and holds up great. I also sometimes use a 24-hour clear epoxy that I get through McMaster. That one works really well. I've played around with bar top epoxy for resin casting with moderate success, but it was only experimental. I've also sometimes used gorilla glue, which is fairly messy, but super strong. Super glue also has its place for some things here and there, like gluing inlay stacks together and for attaching scraps to the stummel when freehand drilling.

I think if I were going to scale back the adhesives in my shop, I'd narrow it down to a 5 minute epoxy and super glue. I can't think of a pipe-making application where one or the other of those wouldn't work.

I also use the gorilla 5 minute stuff in the syringe style dispenser. There are probably stronger ones out there, but I know mine works as I had some delrin shatter before the epoxy gave during a lathe mishap awhile back.

Epoxy for areas that you need time and won't be affected by heat. Ca glue for areas that may warm up.

PremalChheda wrote:Epoxy for areas that you need time and won't be affected by heat. Ca glue for areas that may warm up.

So with this in mind, CA for delrin tenons??

sent from my blah-dee-blah using hooty-hoo

I think delrin tenons are a special case because the material is so slick that it needs to be scored and the bond depends on the mechanical properties of the solidified epoxy. Also, that area doesn't get that hot.
DocAitch

If there is a chance the joint can get hot I use J-B Weld (steel version) which can take 500F.
Otherwise, I use G-Flex. I use a slow set CA for making up stacks of trim rings.

seamonster wrote:

PremalChheda wrote:Epoxy for areas that you need time and won't be affected by heat. Ca glue for areas that may warm up.

So with this in mind, CA for delrin tenons??

sent from my blah-dee-blah using hooty-hoo

In my understanding, CA fails at lower temperatures than epoxy, though their heat resistances are relatively similar. Neither one is spectacular.

http://www.permabond.com/2014/09/11/adh ... adhesives/

http://m.machinedesign.com/adhesives/gu ... g-plastics

I use a polish brand of epoxy glue (Poxipol) for most stuff, JB Weld for anything that might get hot or has only a small area of adhesion (cannot recommend it enough, it's amazing!) and CA for temporary gluing or stuff that will get mechanically bonded or glued with epoxy later or.
It's important to get to know your glue (Hi, I'm Wojtek, nice to meet you:D), if you buy a different brand each time you might get surprises. That's why I use the Poxipol brand, it may not be the very best epoxy on the market but I can find it everywhere around here and I know exactly how to use it - how to mix it, how it cures, how strong it is, etc., so I have consistent results.

oklahoma red wrote:If there is a chance the joint can get hot I use J-B Weld (steel version) which can take 500F.
Otherwise, I use G-Flex. I use a slow set CA for making up stacks of trim rings.

^^^^^^^ This

scotties22 wrote:

oklahoma red wrote:If there is a chance the joint can get hot I use J-B Weld (steel version) which can take 500F.
Otherwise, I use G-Flex. I use a slow set CA for making up stacks of trim rings.

^^^^^^^ This

Charles and Scottie:
1. Do you use Gflex for tenons?
2. Will you describe a situation where the joint might get hot, and you would use JB Weld? Seems to me, the hottest joint would be the tenon, assuming delrin and not integral...

sent from my blah-dee-blah using hooty-hoo

I think the hottest joints would be on shank extensions like bamboo where the joint is closer to the bowl. I use Chinese stuff because I live in China. I know it doesn't sound too promising, but only failures I've had can be blamed on me. For example, not scoring good enough while using delrin, or using a lower heat tolerant epoxy for connections closer to the bowl.

seamonster wrote:

scotties22 wrote:

oklahoma red wrote:If there is a chance the joint can get hot I use J-B Weld (steel version) which can take 500F.
Otherwise, I use G-Flex. I use a slow set CA for making up stacks of trim rings.

^^^^^^^ This

Charles and Scottie:
1. Do you use Gflex for tenons?
2. Will you describe a situation where the joint might get hot, and you would use JB Weld? Seems to me, the hottest joint would be the tenon, assuming delrin and not integral...

sent from my blah-dee-blah using hooty-hoo

I've made odd-ball stuff with very short shanks and various pieces of trim glued up close to the bowl and use the J-B for that.
I thread almost all Delrin tenons and bugger both internal and external threads so the epoxy has a place to go and form a mechanical lock. I like the J-B here also because it sets up hard to help that mechanical lock. I use the G-Flex or Cytec K20 when I want clear. I usually shy away from the quick setting epoxies because they have less bond strength. Overkill, I'm sure. I do a lot of acrylic extensions and install them with a mortise and tenon joint. That way the tenon on the stem inserts into an acrylic mortise rather than wood. No issues with the fit getting loose or too tight with environmental changes.

W.Pastuch wrote:I use a polish brand of epoxy glue (Poxipol) for most stuff, JB Weld for anything that might get hot or has only a small area of adhesion (cannot recommend it enough, it's amazing!) and CA for temporary gluing or stuff that will get mechanically bonded or glued with epoxy later or.
It's important to get to know your glue (Hi, I'm Wojtek, nice to meet you:D), if you buy a different brand each time you might get surprises. That's why I use the Poxipol brand, it may not be the very best epoxy on the market but I can find it everywhere around here and I know exactly how to use it - how to mix it, how it cures, how strong it is, etc., so I have consistent results.

IAWWP. Knowing the materials you use is so important, and that takes experimentation and study before applying it to saleable items.

Is there any chance of poisoning from the use of gorilla glue, JB weld, or other epoxies. I have a couple of pipes I would like to repair but have not done so due to that concern.

No worries.

Don't use it for something like a chamber patch/fill, but other than that you'll be fine.