The Queue

[DocAitch]

Just posting this to let George know that I am not limiting my self to "tulips with spindly stems". These have been in the works for a month now because of interruptions with the National Guard, family,teaching ACLS, freezing weather (I work in my car port), and major surgery for one of the dogs. I am at the rough (100 grit) sanding stage with everything except the un stemmed group. (They are up for shank extensions). 2 are previously cut and I am recutting them after learning stuff on this forum. 3 have pre mold stems because they are sub standard (flawed) stummels and may get sand blasted (when I set up). The last 10 are hand cut stems from a grab bag of Japanese rod that Steve Norse sold me. I am interested to see how they turn out, because some of the colors are pretty interesting. I will re order the colors that I like.
The four light colored ones are briar from Mimmo, and one or two may make it to the Gallery if they work out. So far, only one split shank.
DocAitch

[PremalChheda]

Whoa! That is a lot to have in the works.

Why start with 100 grit? 120 may be sufficient or even 150 when going from file to paper.

[Ocelot55]

I like what I see!

[pipedreamer]

I like the , go big or go home attitude!!! Premal imho, is right on with the file to grit size, only took me forever to learn...

[DocAitch]

Prior to this last week, I had never used a file on briar. My usual sequence was to go from the French wheel with 120 grit to 100 grit and do minor shaping with the 100 grit and some carving with a sharp knife for high spots and assymmetries.
This past week I started with files and that has been a revelation. I am thinking of writing my experience up for another forum.
I will probably continue using the 100 grit until I get back to the store for some 150.
These pipes are definitely opportunities for growth.
DocAitch

[sandahlpipe]

I often do shaping with files and then go right to 220 or even 320 grit from there. But that's only because I finish with a #2 file. It's all about what works best for you. The pipes you've got started look promising. It'll be interesting to see how they turn out.

[Sasquatch]

I use files a LOT, especially on the shank/bowl area. Nothing better for controlling lines. I sand with roll ups and all kinds of little gizmos, but for shape establishment, round, half-round, and flat files of all descriptions.

[mightysmurf8201]

I have found a vulcrylic file to be useful on numerous materials, including briar. I just ordered a fret file. I'm a big fan. One of those, "why did I wait so long to get one of these?" moments. My general approach with files is very similar to Todd's. I like the control they offer, at least until I get way better at the wheel.

[W.Pastuch]

If you like working with files get some Iwasaki small carving files. You can almost shape a whole pipe with those. I did that for some time but since I got better at the shaping disc I don't use them nearly as much. I almost regret it since shaping with files is really fun imho, slow, controlled an relaxing. A sanding disc eating a kg of briar per minute is better for business though

[DocAitch]

If you like working with files get some Iwasaki small carving files. You can almost shape a whole pipe with those. I did that for some time but since I got better at the shaping disc I don't use them nearly as much. I almost regret it since shaping with files is really fun imho, slow, controlled an relaxing. A sanding disc eating a kg of briar per minute is better for business though

I'm right there with the slow and relaxing, and am in no hurry to up my production. The reason that I have 20 in the queue is that I was in the shaping groove for a couple of days. Sort of zoned out. I am going to aim for 3 or so at a time in the future.
I have been holding the pipe up with a tangential light and tracing the high spots with a pencil, then filing them off. I started this with the three billiards and the 2 pokers in the queue and applied it to the freehand in the photo.



I have found that, like Sasquatch says, files are essential to the bowl/shank junction.
What is your source of Iwasaki files? I ordered some from Woodcraft, but didn't know what I was doing and got two rasps that are pretty much useless for pipe shaping. I did get a set of files from Stewart McDonald which I have been using and which I like.
DocAitch

[PremalChheda]

I have found that, like Sasquatch says, files are essential to the bowl/shank junction.
What is your source of Iwasaki files? I ordered some from Woodcraft, but didn't know what I was doing and got two rasps that are pretty much useless for pipe shaping. I did get a set of files from Stewart McDonald which I have been using and which I like.
DocAitch

There are some other tools you can use for a tight radius besides files. It really comes down to what works for you with accuracy and efficiency to get the end result.

[DocAitch]

" There are some other tools you can use for a tight radius besides files. It really comes down to what works for you with accuracy and efficiency to get the end result."

I am open to suggestion on other methods. I can do some shaping of my sanding pads, but find this to less controllable and less easily seen during the process.
DocAitch