PITH 2016!!!!!!

[mightysmurf8201]

Another theme idea: Shaping done without power tools. This would level the playing field for beginners without access to gear, and it would show if gear really matters in making a good pipe (other than speed, of course).

Interesting. There would obviously have to be certain steps where power tools would be allowed, ie. drilling, tenon, etc., and those steps would have to be identified beforehand, of course.

[PremalChheda]

Another theme idea: Shaping done without power tools. This would level the playing field for beginners without access to gear, and it would show if gear really matters in making a good pipe (other than speed, of course).

Interesting. There would obviously have to be certain steps where power tools would be allowed, ie. drilling, tenon, etc., and those steps would have to be identified beforehand, of course.

Gear only matters to make a pipe in a reasonable amount of time. Same pipe can be made with or without power tools. It is all in the hands.

[mightysmurf8201]

I'm personally leaning more towards a military mount, but the alternate function or hand tools only pipe intrigue me as well. Anybody have any ideas for alternate functions? I think that could be really fun.

[PremalChheda]

I'm personally leaning more towards a military mount, but the alternate function or hand tools only pipe intrigue me as well. Anybody have any ideas for alternate functions? I think that could be really fun.

Using power tools or no power tools is irrelevant. Focus should be on a shape or function of the pipes. Not how it is made.

[mightysmurf8201]

Using power tools or no power tools is irrelevant. Focus should be on a shape or function of the pipes. Not how it is made.

That makes sense.

So how does everyone feel about holding the vote this weekend, say... Sunday? We'll have it open until later in the week sometime to give everyone a chance to vote. Any objections to an end of July deadline?

[mightysmurf8201]

The voting option is up and running. Cast your vote!

[kamkiel]

Ｉam gonna jump in on this too! It will be my first PITH, and I am hoping to learn a lot. Thanks for the encouragement Emmanuel.

Kiel

[DocAitch]

I would like to participate also. I am a little hesitant to tackle a shape that you guys do on lathes, but sometime you just got to say WTF.
DocAitch

[oklahoma red]

Don't want to speak too soon but it looks like the military mount is going to win out.
Am I correct that one can make any shape they want as long as it has a military mount stem?

[mightysmurf8201]

...Am I correct that one can make any shape they want as long as it has a military mount stem?

That is correct! Military mount would be the only requirement. Can I add you to the list?

[oklahoma red]

Yes, I'll have a go at it. I had to bail last year so hopefully I'll do better this time.

[impish1]

Count me in.
I vote briar calabash (complete with expansion chamber, and no RCs). Incidentally, that should give the opportunity to do a military mount without excluding those lacking said tooling).

EDIT: or heck, why not open it up to RCs as well?

Ok I'll ask the first dumb question. What is RCs?


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[oklahoma red]

Count me in.
I vote briar calabash (complete with expansion chamber, and no RCs). Incidentally, that should give the opportunity to do a military mount without excluding those lacking said tooling).

EDIT: or heck, why not open it up to RCs as well?

Ok I'll ask the first dumb question. What is RCs?

RC commonly refers to a "reverse calabash" design where an expansion chamber is incorporated into the pipe's shank.


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[mightysmurf8201]

Military mount it is!

[PremalChheda]

Military mount it is!

Saaaweeet!

[LatakiaLover]

Be brave. Go for it!:

[mightysmurf8201]

Be brave. Go for it!:

Do you have a good source for those particular types of metal shank caps?

[Alden]

Do you have a good source for those particular types of metal shank caps?

Buy up a bunch of old military mount Dunhills and sand all the stamps off the caps. Then turn a tenon on the end of your pipe to fit the new silver work, voila. Now, don't go telling everyone these kind of pipe making secrets, you'll drive up the price of those Dunhills in no time.

[kamkiel]

I have been looking at tapered reamers online in China. They have two basic tapers: 1/20 and 1/50 (gradients). From what I was reading in one of the other threads 1/20 (~5○ if I remember correctly) would be too wide of an angle, so I would go with 1/50. An 8mm tapered bit is the says the diameter is 8mm in the middle of the bit with (for example) a 7mm diamter around the tip and 9mm diameter at the end. I just want to verify, I should buy one with a tip diameter of 8mm if I want around that size of a mortise, right? Then find some tubing that would fit the outside diameter of my drilled mortise?

I am going to try this first if you guys think it sounds right. Later I will see if I can make my own mm(military mount) tool.

If I cant get any of these to work right, I'll just go the Alden route and start removing the stamp markings off of other people's mm pipes

Thanks,
Kiel

[oklahoma red]

I have been looking at tapered reamers online in China. They have two basic tapers: 1/20 and 1/50 (gradients). From what I was reading in one of the other threads 1/20 (~5○ if I remember correctly) would be too wide of an angle, so I would go with 1/50. An 8mm tapered bit is the says the diameter is 8mm in the middle of the bit with (for example) a 7mm diamter around the tip and 9mm diameter at the end. I just want to verify, I should buy one with a tip diameter of 8mm if I want around that size of a mortise, right? Then find some tubing that would fit the outside diameter of my drilled mortise?

I am going to try this first if you guys think it sounds right. Later I will see if I can make my own mm(military mount) tool.

If I cant get any of these to work right, I'll just go the Alden route and start removing the stamp markings off of other people's mm pipes

Thanks,
Kiel

7mm at the tip and 9mm at the "end" over what distance? You need to know that so you can calculate the true angle. Perhaps the angle is stated in the description of the tool?
If the reamer you describe works out to be the correct one then drill the mortise first with a 7mm straight bit then follow it up (carefully!) with the tapered reamer. Leave as much meat as you can inre the shank diameter to reduce the possibility of splitting when reaming, then turn to final size.
Just to be clear, you do realize that the metal shank cap is for reinforcement of the joint? The taper is in the wood. If your shank diameter is big enough you can make a sleeve out of just about any material you want, exotic wood, acrylic, horn, etc. Whatever the material, its primary function is to protect the joint from the wedge forces of the tapered stem.