PITH 2016!!!!!!

[seamonster]

I've tried 4, with varying degrees of success.... I'm new to shape-first-drill-after-ing so there's that learning curve too... have found some aluminum that works well as a ring, and looks really really nice when shined up, so I'm excited about that....

sent from my blah-dee-blah, using hooty-hoo

[mightysmurf8201]

I think its because the tubing I bought might be to thin and it jumps around easier when drilling the spot for the ring. I really life like how the plain old copper looks as is. Are there any reasons I shouldn't use copper?
Kiel

With the few test pieces I did, I've found that advancing the cutting tool very slowly helped me get better results. I do like the look of copper, but I don't have any information to offer as to its use. What I can say is that I have a T. Cristiano pipe with a copper layer slabbed between 2 silver colored layers in the stem, and over the years the copper has begun to tarnish.

[kamkiel]

I think its because the tubing I bought might be to thin and it jumps around easier when drilling the spot for the ring. I really life like how the plain old copper looks as is. Are there any reasons I shouldn't use copper?
Kiel

With the few test pieces I did, I've found that advancing the cutting tool very slowly helped me get better results. I do like the look of copper, but I don't have any information to offer as to its use. What I can say is that I have a T. Cristiano pipe with a copper layer slabbed between 2 silver colored layers in the stem, and over the years the copper has begun to tarnish.

Does the copper tarnish as quickly as the silver and can it be buffed out as easily? I'm thinking a tarnished copper ring between two silver rings might not look that great, but a single piece of tarnished copper on a darker stained pipe might noy be too bad. Regardless, I still plan on buy another brass pipe, but with a thickness of 1mm.

Lets pretend I made a really nice pipe( pretend harder), would a potential buyer not buy the pipe because of copper as a material was used?

Kiel

[PremalChheda]

I think its because the tubing I bought might be to thin and it jumps around easier when drilling the spot for the ring. I really life like how the plain old copper looks as is. Are there any reasons I shouldn't use copper?
Kiel

With the few test pieces I did, I've found that advancing the cutting tool very slowly helped me get better results. I do like the look of copper, but I don't have any information to offer as to its use. What I can say is that I have a T. Cristiano pipe with a copper layer slabbed between 2 silver colored layers in the stem, and over the years the copper has begun to tarnish.

Does the copper tarnish as quickly as the silver and can it be buffed out as easily? I'm thinking a tarnished copper ring between two silver rings might not look that great, but a single piece of tarnished copper on a darker stained pipe might noy be too bad. Regardless, I still plan on buy another brass pipe, but with a thickness of 1mm.

Lets pretend I made a really nice pipe( pretend harder), would a potential buyer not buy the pipe because of copper as a material was used?

Kiel

Copper, Brass, & Silver will all tarnish. How fast they will tarnish depends on the contents. Nate uses titanium, and so far I have not seen it tarnish. Silver and brass are real easy to clean, but copper is a bit more difficult. Remember to be safe while cutting, sanding, and turning these materials. There is some bad shit inside em that you do not want to breath in.

[calsbeek]

Does anyone here just make a slight taper in a regular 1/2" wood bit to make their mortise? Or is the spoon bit absolutely necessary?

[oklahoma red]

Does anyone here just make a slight taper in a regular 1/2" wood bit to make their mortise? Or is the spoon bit absolutely necessary?

A "spoon bit" or half round is not a necessity. Use whatever you wish that will cut a mortise with a 3-4 degree included angle. A sharp and accurately modified spade bit will do the job. I emphasize SHARP in order to end up with a smooth hole. Test on some scrap first regardless of what type of bit that you use.

[calsbeek]

spade bit over regular old fluted drill bit?

[LatakiaLover]

spade bit over regular old fluted drill bit?

Yes. The sides of standard drill bits aren't designed to cut. If you grind one to a taper and push it into a spinning pilot hole the wood will just burn.

[PremalChheda]

You can also just drill a regular hole and then by hand shape the taper. It will not be super precise, but with some work, you can get an accurate fit.

[oklahoma red]

spade bit over regular old fluted drill bit?

Yes. The sides of standard drill bits aren't designed to cut. If you grind one to a taper and push it into a spinning pilot hole the wood will just burn.

LL is correct. The flutes on a twist drill are there for pulling the swarf out of the hole. All of the cutting occurs at the tip. Examine a twist drill carefully and you'll see there is no relief on the flutes. Granted one can enlarge a hole in soft material by moving the drill around in an orbital path but it is anything but precision.
For comparison check out a metal cutting end mill and you will note the flutes are ground so as to cut sideways. They can also be had as "center cutting" whereby you can plunge the cutter into the material then move in a sideways motion. If you are interested, end mills can be had that have their cutting edges ground at a taper. These are often used in injection mold tooling to cut the runner channels between cavities. The wall taper allows the solidified plastic to pop free when the mold opens.

[calsbeek]

Ok I made a tapered bit, I got the stumble shaped (most of the way) cut a tapered tenon to fit the mortise...all looked good.

then I went to make the cut for the metal inlay ring and the whole thing went to shit.
The cutting tool I made (out of a piece of 1/2" copper pipe) moved too much on the shank face leaving me with an over wide, poorly cut channel.....

Do people have suggestions for how to cut the slot smoothly?

[PremalChheda]

Ok I made a tapered bit, I got the stumble shaped (most of the way) cut a tapered tenon to fit the mortise...all looked good.

then I went to make the cut for the metal inlay ring and the whole thing went to shit.
The cutting tool I made (out of a piece of 1/2" copper pipe) moved too much on the shank face leaving me with an over wide, poorly cut channel.....

Do people have suggestions for how to cut the slot smoothly?

Make a sleeve that the tube fits over that has a tenon on it that fits into the pipe. Rotate by hand to cut the slot for the tube.

[calsbeek]

thanks Premal
planning to give it a go on my next try. In the meantime if anyone has a military tool set I could borrow.....still happy to pay shipping. Vermontfreehand doesn't seem like an option having made contact with Steve.

cheers

[calsbeek]

ok, I broke down and bought one myself.

In the spirit of my own request, should anyone like to borrow it please let me know.

-r

[kamkiel]

An early attempt in preparation for PITH. The brass ring is off center, and i need to be more careful with the tear out i'm getting on the tenons. Hopefully the next one will cooperate better





Kiel

[seamonster]

An early attempt in preparation for PITH. The brass ring is off center, and i need to be more careful with the tear out i'm getting on the tenons. Hopefully the next one will cooperate better





Kiel

Now, THAT looks great!

[Rodneywt1180b]

Nice pipe! I know I would consider those results to be a success.
Rodney

[Rodneywt1180b]

we just had some unexpected expenses come up. Doesn't look like the budget is going to allow much in the way of playing for a while. I'm sorry to say I'm going to have to drop out this year. Although it doesn't amount to much, the money is better spent elsewhere right now.
Rodney

[calsbeek]

where are folks on this?
I've got my test runs done and am prepping for the submission pipe. Is everyone else (besides Rodney) still in?

[PremalChheda]

I'm still in. I will work on it next week and maybe post some pics.