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Hi folks.
I have been making some tampers recently, and using coins for the bottom. (I know the metal probably isn't necessary, but it looks nice).
I've been using JB Clearweld, as i do for most pipe bits. I have been having an issue sanding the metal on the belt sander, as when it gets hot it has a tendency to break off from the wood.
I have managed by going very slowly and waiting for it to cool, but wondered if there was a better glue for this purpose?

This happens when too hot.
Just go a little at a time, making sure it stays relatively cool.
Same goes for brass rings at the mortise. If you're too aggressive it will back out.

Get the metals as close to final shape as possible before gluing them on, then take it carefully and slowly.

A jar of your enemies' blood is handy for quenching overheated metal in the shop.

Cheers chaps!

Sasquatch wrote:A jar of your enemies' blood is handy for quenching overheated metal in the shop.

I always have a fresh jar handy in case i get thirsty in the workshop.

Sasquatch wrote:A jar of your enemies' blood is handy for quenching overheated metal in the shop.

I never have enough left over after my bath to cellar away in jars.

Go slow it feels better and don't get any on you .

What's the maximum heat rating on the glue you're using? JB Weld usually lists it on the back of the package. Most epoxies will release at about 150 F. It's entirely possible your sander is heating it up and melting the glue. Regular old JB Weld is much more heat tolerant and will withstand 400-degree temps. If you don't like the gray look, you can dye it black with lampblack.

Maybe solder a tack or small nail to the backside of the coin before installing it?
The epoxy would then be mainly a filler for any gaps between the two surfaces.
Rodney

Thanks chaps.

The temperature rating for JB Clearweld is up to 300f, although i suspect it is releasing with the friction from the sander somewhere below this. I wanted to avoid the grey in case it leaves a line, especially with lighter materials. Handy to know that it can easily be dyed black though cheers.

I did think about some sort of mechanical joint to support it too, but just took the earlier advice and have been rough shaping the tamper, marking an outline on a coin, shaping the coin in a pair of mole grips, then gluing and final shaping in small bits. Very quick and easy tbh. I think my main issue was having too much material to remove, so the heat builds up.